Beatrice Lang
Setting up a hot electrical strand, or an electric fence, is a popular choice for farmers and ranchers to keep their livestock safe and protected from predators. Electric fencing is also useful for keeping wildlife away from livestock. The process involves several steps, including choosing the right wire or tape, installing braces and insulators, and setting up a charger to power the fence. It is important to ensure that the wire is pulled tight to prevent animals from jumping over it. Additionally, the number of strands and their placement at different heights, such as nose level for grazing animals, depend on the type of animals being contained.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Keeping livestock in and/or keeping predators out |
| Wire type | Electric fence tape or straight wire of various thicknesses |
| Wire placement | At nose level and grazing height for livestock, with additional wires at "head height"; for predators, wires should be very close to the ground |
| Number of wires | Depends on the type of animal; one or two strands of wire for cows, three to four strands for horses, five strands for goats |
| Wire spacing | Wires should be pulled tight to prevent animals from jumping over |
| Charger | Solar or electric; solar chargers may not be strong enough |
| Charger power | Minimum of 10 Joules |
| Charger placement | Weather-resilient spot near an AC outlet or in an area with plenty of sunlight |
| Braces | Required on corners and gates; number depends on the number of lines |
| Insulators | Should allow wire to move freely through; permanent or swivel-lock/pin-lock |
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Choose your wire
When it comes to choosing your wire for an electric fence, you have a few options. Electric fencing can be installed with electric fence tape or straight wire in a variety of thicknesses. Tape is the easiest to see and is less dangerous than wire. Poly tape, braid, and rope in widths of 1.5 or 2 inches are effective for most purposes. Coated wire is also easy to see and install. Half-inch tape may be too small for a more substantial fence, especially for horses or keeping deer out.
The number of wires or strands you'll need depends on the type of livestock you're containing. For example, a cow typically requires one or two strands of wire, while a horse requires three to four strands. Goats may require five strands closer together. If your livestock are trained to the electric fence, you may be able to get by with fewer hot wires. For many livestock held in temporary, interior paddocks, one line is often sufficient.
The spacing of the wires is also important. For livestock, add lines at nose and grazing level, with additional wires at "head height" in between. If you also want to keep out wildlife and predators, add lines very close to the ground, as they may try to dig under the fence. Then, tighten the space between all the wires, adding a line between each "head height" set.
It's important to keep the electricity in the wires and away from the posts, so insulators are crucial. The type of insulator you need depends on the type of fence wire you choose. The most common insulators allow braided or rope-style fencing to slide through, helping to avoid rubbing. The insulator should always allow the wire to move freely and should never grip it.
Finally, make sure the wire is pulled tight. If it isn't, it can look sloppy and be ineffective. For example, a nimble goat might be able to jump a loose wire without getting shocked.
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Set up your charger
Setting up a charger for your electric fence is a crucial step to ensure it functions as intended. Here are the steps you need to follow:
First, decide on the type of charger you want to use. You can choose between an AC outlet charger and a solar charger. If you opt for an AC outlet charger, look for a weather-resilient spot near an outlet to install it. On the other hand, if you prefer a solar charger, select a sunny location that receives ample sunlight to power the charger effectively. Remember to hang the charger on a post or wall of an outbuilding for protection.
Second, consider the power requirements of your electric fence. The charger's power is measured in Joules, and it needs to be sufficient to maintain the electric current across the entire length of the fence. As a rule of thumb, your electric fence energizer output should be at least 1 Joule per 6 miles of wire. For a permanent electric fence grid, it is recommended to use a minimum of a 10-Joule charger. This ensures that the fence can overcome the drain of vegetation touching the fence and shorting out the wire.
Third, be mindful of the specific needs of your livestock and the purpose of your fence. For example, if you have newborn calves, you may want to ensure they can walk freely under the wire by adjusting the height accordingly. Additionally, consider the number of strands and their placement. Usually, one line is sufficient for livestock held in temporary, interior paddocks. However, for horses, you may need 3-4 strands of wire, while goats may require 5 strands closer together.
Finally, it is important to note that you should not turn on the charger until you have installed the fence. This ensures safety during the installation process and prevents any accidental shocks.
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Brace your corners
Bracing the corners of your woodwork project is essential to ensure its stability and durability. Properly braced corners will help prevent warping, twisting, and other structural issues over time. Here are the steps to effectively brace your corners:
First, choose the right materials for your bracing corners. Different types of wood, fasteners, and tools are available for this purpose. For example, you can use T-posts or chain-link fence brace posts, but these may require specific orientations and can only create 90-degree corners. Alternatively, you can use 10' pieces of 1-1/4" EMT, which is cheaper and readily available at big box stores. For fence corners, you can also use electric rope or a single strand of electric wire at the top of a 54" field fence.
Next, determine the proper angles and dimensions for bracing. Utilize measuring and marking techniques with tools such as a square, measuring tape, or protractor. Double-check your measurements for accuracy before making any cuts. Choose the right cutting tools for your project, such as a miter saw or a table saw with a miter gauge for accurate crosscuts. For intricate or curved cuts, you may need a coping saw or a band saw. Remember to use sharp blades and prioritize safety when operating these tools.
Now, you can begin assembling your brace joints. One method is the half-lap joint, where each of the two pieces being joined has half of the material removed so they can overlap and are then glued together for a flush and sturdy corner brace. Another method is the dovetail joint, which is known for its strength and decorative appeal. Dovetail joints require precise cutting of interlocking "tails" and "pins" and are commonly used in applications where durability is essential, such as drawers and boxes.
Finally, reinforce and finish your braced corners. Sand the corners with high-grit sandpaper to ensure a smooth and even surface, free of any rough edges or imperfections. You can then stain the braced corners to achieve your desired colour and finish, following the manufacturer's instructions.
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Mount insulators
Insulators are important to install as they keep the electricity in the wires and away from the posts. The type of insulator you will need depends on the type of fence wire you purchase, as manufacturers will usually include and design insulators tailored to their products. The most common are insulators that allow braided or rope-style fencing enough space to slide through, helping to avoid rubbing.
When mounting insulators, it is important to keep the following in mind:
- The insulators should be mounted securely, ensuring that they do not move or shift over time. This can be achieved through the use of cement footings or anchors.
- The insulators should be placed at regular intervals along the fence line to ensure consistent spacing and effectiveness.
- The insulators should be made of a material that is a good electrical insulator, such as glass, paper, PTFE, rubber-like polymers, or most plastics.
- The insulators should be designed to accommodate the specific type of wire being used, such as braided or rope-style fencing, to ensure a secure fit and to avoid rubbing.
- Standard Wood Post Nail-on Claw Insulator: This type of insulator is designed to be nailed onto a standard wood post and is simple to install.
- Standard Reverse T-Post Claw 3” Offset Insulator: This insulator is designed to mount on the backside of a T-Post and extends the wire 3 inches from the post.
- Large Porcelain Lag Insulator: This insulator offers superior strength, long life, and fire resistance.
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Run the wire
When running electrical wire, it is important to understand the different types of wires available and the local building codes and regulations that apply to your project. Common types of electrical wire include Romex, THHN/THWN wire, and UF-B cable. Romex is typically used in residential wiring and consists of two or more insulated conductors enclosed in a flexible plastic sheath. THHN/THWN wire is commonly used in commercial and industrial applications and is suitable for wet and dry locations. UF-B cable, or Underground Feeder cable, is designed for underground use and is resistant to moisture.
Before you begin running electrical wire, take the time to plan your wiring layout. Map out where you will need electrical outlets, switches, and fixtures, considering the layout of the room and the placement of furniture and appliances. This will help you determine the number of circuits you need and the path your electrical wire will take. Drawing a wiring diagram can be helpful in visualising your electrical layout.
When installing an electric fence, there are a few additional considerations. The spacing and number of wires will depend on the number of animals you need to contain and the size of the enclosure. It is important to install insulators to keep the electricity in the wires and away from the posts. Mount the wire using connector clamps, starting at the post farthest from the charger and pulling the wires taut at the anchor end.
For running electrical wire outdoors, such as for a shed, it is important to follow the burial depth requirements set by the National Electrical Code (NEC). Depths can range from 4 to 24 inches, depending on the wiring method and the location of the buried wire. If you are running wire under concrete patios, slabs, or driveways, different depth requirements may apply. Consult a licensed electrician or your local electrical inspector for more information.
To wire a shed, you can run non-metallic sheathed cable (NM-B) from the shed disconnect switch to a GFCI receptacle and then to the rest of the shed receptacles. Remember to always follow local electrical codes and regulations and prioritise safety when running electrical wire.
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Frequently asked questions
First, decide how many brace corners you'll need and get enough fence posts. Next, select a charger that will keep the electric fence powered. You can use an electric charger near an AC outlet or a solar charger in a sunny spot. Then, choose your wire—you can use electric fence tape or straight wire. After that, set up your charger and put in grounding posts. Now, you can run the wire, ensuring it is pulled tight. Finally, mount the insulators and hang electric fence warning signs.
The number of strands depends on the type of animal you are containing. For example, a cow requires one or two strands of wire, whereas a horse requires three to four strands. If your livestock are trained to the electric fence, you can usually get by with fewer hot wires.
You will need to add lines at nose and grazing level, with additional wires for every "head height" in between. If you are also trying to keep out wildlife and predators, you will need to add lines very close to the ground and tighten the space between the other wires.
Make sure to hang electric fence warning signs so that people know the fence is hot. Check the fence lines at least twice a week with a voltmeter. Never use barbed wire on an electric fence and do not stand near the fence during an electrical storm.
