Beatrice Lang
Adding a new electrical socket is a straightforward process, but it's important to exercise caution when dealing with electricity. Before beginning any electrical work, ensure you take the necessary safety precautions, including switching off the main power and isolating the circuit you plan to work on. In some cases, it may be best to consult a qualified electrician. If you're confident in your abilities and have taken the proper safety measures, you can add a new electrical socket by running a spur from an existing socket on a ring main circuit or by tapping into an existing socket. You can then connect the cores to their corresponding terminals and screw the faceplate in place. With the socket installed, you can turn the electricity back on and safely use your new outlet.
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What You'll Learn
Ensure compliance with regulations and safety precautions
When adding a new electrical socket, it is important to ensure compliance with regulations and safety precautions to avoid any hazards and legal issues. Here are some detailed guidelines to achieve that:
Firstly, determine the location of the new socket. It is important to note that there are "'special locations'" where only a qualified electrician is permitted to work. These include outdoor areas and bathrooms, which require special low-voltage safety fittings. For bathroom electrical circuits, Residual Current Devices (RCDs) must be used for protection, and light switches should be pull-cord types or located outside the bathroom.
Secondly, before commencing any electrical work, always switch off the main power at the consumer unit or fuse box. Isolate the circuit by removing the circuit fuse and keeping it with you to avoid accidental replacement. Alternatively, switch off the breaker and lock it if possible. This is a crucial safety measure to prevent electrical hazards.
Thirdly, ensure that your work complies with local Building Regulations and IEE electrical regulations. Any new electrical work must conform to Part P of the Building Regulations, which prioritises safety and restricts DIY electrical work. If you are unsure about any aspect of the regulations, consult a competent person registered with an electrical certification scheme or seek advice from your local authority.
Additionally, be mindful of specific regulations regarding socket placement and wiring. Power sockets must be positioned no lower than 450mm above the floor, and light switches should be no higher than 1200mm from the floor. When connecting to a ring circuit, follow the IEE Wiring Regulations. Do not run a spur from a socket that is already on a spur or supplying one. The new socket must not extend the floor area served by the circuit beyond 100 square metres.
Finally, always use safe and approved electrical equipment and tools. Do not use multi-plug receptacle adapters as they may compromise ground continuity and overload circuits. Use grounded electrical outlets and avoid removing the grounding prong to fit a two-prong socket. Ensure that extension cords are approved and properly maintained, with no exposed live parts or damage.
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Identify a suitable socket to run the spur from
When identifying a suitable socket to run the spur from, it is important to remember that you cannot connect it to just any socket. The IEE Wiring Regulations are very specific about this. You must not run a spur from a socket that is already on a spur or that already supplies a spur. The new socket must not extend the floor area served by the circuit beyond 100 square metres. If you are in any doubt about whether the socket from which you plan to run is part of a ring circuit, consult a qualified electrician.
The socket you choose to run the spur from must be carefully selected. If there is only one cable, the socket is already supplied by a spur. In this case, you will need to choose another socket.
If you are unsure about the socket you want to run the spur from, it is always a good idea to test the power before you start. You can do this by plugging in a light and switching it on, or by using a voltage detector. If the power is working, you may proceed. If it is not, you should get an electrician, as there could be a deeper problem than a faulty socket.
If you are adding a new electrical outlet or light fitting, it will almost certainly involve running a cable from a power source. If you are unsure about the circuit, call a licensed electrician or your local code authority for help.
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Prepare the cable route and feed the new cable
When installing a new electrical socket, it is important to comply with the relevant electrical regulations and safety precautions. Before beginning any electrical work, ensure that the power is switched off at the consumer unit/fuse box and that the circuit you plan to work on is isolated by removing the circuit fuse or switching off the breaker. Check that the circuit is no longer live using a socket tester or voltage tester/meter.
To prepare the cable route and feed the new cable, first locate a suitable existing socket to run the spur from. The socket must not already be supplying a spur or be supplied by another spur. The combined floor area of the rooms supplied by the circuit after the new spur must not exceed 100 square metres. Unscrew the terminals and release the cores from the faceplate of the chosen socket. Undo the screws fixing the mounting box to the wall and remove it.
Prepare the cable route to the location of the new socket by following the instructions provided in a guide on "Preparing the circuit route". Feed the new cable from the supply socket to the new socket, threading the ends of the cable through the holes in the mounting boxes at both locations. Fit grommets in the holes to protect the cable. Screw both mounting boxes into position.
At the supply socket, you will now have three cables. The cores from all three cables must match and be correctly connected to their corresponding terminals on the faceplate: Live (L), Neutral (N), and Earth (E). Ensure that you do not use the back-stab holes in the receptacle as they tend to loosen over time. Tug on each connection to ensure that all wires are tight and secure.
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Connect the cores to their corresponding terminals
It is important to note that you are not legally allowed to install completely new sockets in your home by yourself. This is to protect you, your family, and your property from dangerous workmanship. If you want a completely new socket installed, you must hire a qualified electrician to do so.
Now, assuming that you are either replacing a socket or adding a new one in a location where one already exists, here is a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to connect the cores to their corresponding terminals when installing a new electrical socket:
First, ensure that you have located a suitable socket and unscrewed the terminals to release the cores from the faceplate. The socket you choose to run the spur from must be selected carefully. Do not use a socket that is already supplying a spur or is supplied by another spur. The IEE Wiring Regulations are very specific about this.
Next, you will need to identify the cores and their corresponding terminals. The cores are the wires that carry the electrical current, and they are typically colour-coded. The colours may vary depending on your location and the age of your electrical system. For example, in some cases, the brown core is connected to the terminal marked "L" (for Live), the blue core to the terminal marked "N" (for Neutral), and the yellow-and-green core to the terminal marked "E" (for Earth). Make sure you consult a reliable source to identify the correct colours for your specific system.
Once you have identified the cores and terminals, it's time to make the connections. Start by stripping the insulation from the ends of the cores to expose the conductive material underneath. Then, create hooks in the ends of the wires, wrapping them clockwise around the screws of the corresponding terminals. Tighten the connections securely with a screwdriver. Ensure that you do not use the back-stab holes in the receptacle, as they tend to loosen over time.
After making the connections, tug on each connection gently to ensure that all the wires are tight and cannot come out of their splices. This is an important safety step to prevent loose connections, which can be hazardous.
Finally, wrap electrical tape around the receptacle terminals for added insulation and protection. This will help prevent short circuits and ensure that the connections remain secure.
Once you have completed these steps, you can proceed with reassembling the socket and restoring power to the circuit, following the appropriate safety precautions.
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Test the power before starting work
It is important to test the power before starting work on any electrical project. This is a safety precaution that should not be skipped. To do this, first, switch off the main power at the consumer unit/fuse box. You can isolate the circuit by removing the circuit fuse or switching off the breaker and locking it if possible. Put a note on the unit advising anyone who may see it that you are working on the circuit.
Next, you need to check that the circuit is dead. You can use a socket tester or voltage tester/meter for lighting circuits. Alternatively, you can plug in an appliance, such as a lamp or radio, and switch it on to see if the circuit is live. If the power is working, do not proceed with the next steps of your electrical work. Call an electrician as there could be a deeper problem.
If you are working with a flush-mounted socket, it is easy to replace it with a surface-mounted double socket. There are socket conversion boxes available for this purpose, or you can use a standard double socket and drill and plug the wall. If you want the socket to be flush-mounted, you will need to remove the old box and make a larger recess for a new one.
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Frequently asked questions
No, by law, you are not allowed to install completely new sockets in your home, i.e. where one does not already exist. If you want a completely new socket installed, you need to have it installed by a qualified electrician.
If you are doing a “like-for-like” replacement, you should be able to do it yourself as long as you are competent and take all the necessary safety precautions.
Before starting any electrical work, make sure to switch off the main power at the consumer unit/fuse box. Isolate the circuit you plan to work on by removing the circuit fuse or switching off the breaker. Check the circuit is dead with a socket tester or voltage tester/meter.
First, locate a suitable socket and unscrew the terminals to release the cores from the faceplate. Undo the screws that fix the mounting box to the wall and remove it. Prepare the cable route to the location of the new socket. Feed the new cable from the supply socket to the new socket and thread the ends of the cable through the holes in the mounting boxes. Screw both mounting boxes in position and prepare both ends of the new cable. At the new socket, connect the cores to their corresponding terminals on the faceplate. With the connections made, push the cores into the mounting box and screw the faceplate to the mounting box. Return to the consumer unit and replace the fuse or switch the MCB back on, and turn on the mains supply.
The National Electrical Code (NEC) sets specific rules about receptacle loads and placement. Some rooms, like kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry areas, require circuits that can only serve that specific room or ancillary areas. Check with your local code authority to see if your plan is sound or if you need a permit.
