Wiktor Wise
Electric model trains are a fun hobby, but sometimes they don't work as expected. It's important to understand how to test your setup to identify the problem. Bench testing your electric model train involves checking the power flow and voltage, soldering track pieces, and understanding the electrical circuit. You can use a 9V battery or an amp meter to test the power, and you should also inspect your wiring and rail joiners. With some simple tools and knowledge, you can troubleshoot and fix issues with your electric model train at home.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Locomotive scale | N-scale, G-scale, HO-scale |
| Voltage | 10-24 volts |
| Tools required | Simple tools, wires, rail joiners, soldering equipment, 9V battery, alligator clips, amp meter |
| Process | Check wiring, test power flow, test electrical circuit, use battery on wheels, test load with amp meter |
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What You'll Learn
Test power flow through the model train system
To test the power flow through your model train system, you'll need to perform a bench test. This can be done at home with some simple tools, and it's a good skill to have to avoid having to take your model into a hobby store for basic diagnostics.
The first step is to check the wiring. Double and triple-check that you are working with the correct wires and that everything is connected securely and efficiently. Rail joiners, for example, are only used for the mechanical connection components of your model train tracks, so be sure you are using them appropriately.
If you are experiencing a spotty electrical connection, the problem could be in the track wires themselves. In this case, soldering each individual track piece and then soldering the other end of each drop to the main buss should improve the electrical circuit between your track and the power source.
Before testing the power flow, it's a good idea to install as many drops as possible to ensure you get the results you want on the first try.
To test power flow, you can use a 9V battery (the kind used in smoke detectors) or your train controller. Hold the battery against the wheels, or hook up some wires to the controller and hold them against the wheels or the poles of the motor. You can also combine the battery with alligator clips to connect it directly to the motor poles.
If you are using DCC, you will first need to understand electronic circuits to avoid frying the controller. Instead, you can use a roller test bench or roller stands to run and program your locomotives.
If you want to clean the wheels of your train, Kadee sells a wired wire brush with alligator clips and wires attached.
Amp meters are also useful for testing power flow. You can use an AC amp meter, either analog or digital, to test the load a loco is drawing and to monitor power during electronic installations or repairs.
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$36.59
Test the train directly for appropriate power
Testing your model train directly for appropriate power is a good way to establish whether the issues are within the train itself. This is a good first step to take before investigating other components.
Firstly, it is important to note that the maximum voltage and ideal running power varies from model to model. For example, the smallest N-scale models take the least amount of electricity, with 10-12 volts being ideal, whereas G-scale models require 24 volts to operate smoothly. HO-scale models typically require 16 volts.
To test the train directly, you can use a 9V battery (the type used in smoke detectors) and hold it against the wheels. This will replace the electrical supply that would normally come from the track. If the motor turns, this confirms that the electrical components of the train are working.
You can also use your train controller to test the power. Hook up some wires to the controller and hold them against the wheels or the poles of the motor. Alligator clips can be useful for this purpose.
If you are using a DCC, it is important to understand electronic circuits first, as you run the risk of frying the controller if you make a mistake.
If you are testing a second-hand train, it is a good idea to use a 9V battery to test the engine before purchasing.
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Solder track pieces to improve the electrical circuit
Soldering track pieces can improve the electrical circuit of your model train set-up by ensuring positive, uninterrupted continuity and integrity of the joint. This means that electricity will flow more smoothly, and your trains and accessories will function correctly.
Firstly, you should decide whether to solder every track piece or just certain sections. If you are not certain of your track plan, it is recommended to hold off on soldering and see how things go. Soldering makes it much more difficult to make changes later on. For bigger layouts, it is usually recommended to have one set of unsoldered joints with a 1/16" gap between the rails every 50 linear feet. This allows for expansion and contraction of the rails with temperature changes. If you are using flex track to form a curve with two or more sections, you should solder 2-3 of them together while they are laid out straight.
If you decide to solder your track pieces, start by lining up the rail joint carefully so that the tops and insides of the rails are flush. Then, apply liquid flux to the outside of the joint. Heat up your soldering iron and "tin" it by coating the tip with solder. Hold the tip to the outside of the rail joint for several seconds, then touch the solder to both the rail and the tip of the soldering iron. The solder will become liquid and flow into the joint. You only need a small amount of solder – if a large bead forms, you have probably used too much.
You can also add feeder wires to your track to ensure that all sections get an adequate amount of amperage to run your trains smoothly. These should be added about every 3 feet. Feed wires can be soldered to the outside of the rail's base and web, using a small amount of rosin flux and rosin-core solder.
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Use a 9v battery to test the train's motor
A 9V battery can be used to test the motor of a model train. This can be done by applying power from the battery to the motor leads, pickup wipers, or wheel flanges. If the train is a DC model or a DCC loco without a decoder installed, this method can be used to see if the train runs. This can also be done by combining the battery with the motor's poles, but it is important to understand electronic circuits first as there is a risk of frying the controller if done incorrectly.
A 9V battery can also be used to test the lights, sounds, and smoke units of a model train. While it may not have enough current to run the engine, it can often cause the motor to twitch and try to move, indicating some level of function. This method is small, portable, and convenient compared to finding a wall socket and transformer.
For trains with two rails, such as HO or N & DC standard power, wires with alligator clips can be used. One end of the wire is clipped to the track or a spare transformer, while the other end is clipped to the loco's ground and the other electrical contact. This allows the train to run while being cleaned or serviced.
It is important to note that a 9V battery may not work for all trains, especially older engines or those with AC-only locos. Additionally, it may blow the horn, whistle, or bell depending on the DC polarity. While it is a viable test power source, it is not as comprehensive as a real test bench transformer.
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Use an amp meter to test the load of a loco
To test the load of a locomotive (loco) using an amp meter, follow these steps:
Firstly, ensure you have the correct equipment. A multimeter can be used to test both voltage and amps, and a clamp-on meter is a useful tool for model trains as it can measure AC current without breaking the connection. You can also use a standard amp meter, which can be clamped onto the bench.
Next, connect the meter leads according to the instructions. For a Pollis meter, ensure the test leads are in the correct sockets and the meter selection switch is pointing to the 10-amp setting. For a digital meter, follow the manufacturer's instructions, which may include connecting the red lead to the "V(ohm sign) mA" jack socket and the black lead to "COM".
Then, place your loco on a spare piece of straight track long enough for the entire locomotive. Connect one lead from the DC train controller to the track, and the other lead to one meter lead. The other meter lead connects to the other rail.
Turn up the power, placing a finger in front or behind the loco to prevent it from slipping on the rails. Read the current on the meter—this is the normal load current.
You can also test the load while performing electronic installations or repairs. Slowly ramp up the power and watch the amp meter. If the reading exceeds what it should be, shut down and investigate.
Additionally, you can compare the amp meter reading against your 4000-amp, 50-millivolt Main Generator Shunt. Calculate the multiplier/divider and follow the formula to match your Load Meter.
By following these steps, you can effectively use an amp meter to test the load of a locomotive in your model train setup.
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Frequently asked questions
Hold a 9V battery across the wheels with the pickups. The electricity from the battery replaces the supply that would normally come from the track and should make the motor turn.
You can solder the individual track pieces to improve the electrical circuit between the track and the power source. You can also use an amp meter to test the load a train engine is drawing.
This varies from model to model, but generally, the N-scale is the smallest and takes 10-12 volts, the G-scale needs 24 volts, and the HO-scale runs on 16 volts.
Ensure that you are using rail joiners appropriately, as they are only meant for the mechanical connection components of the model train tracks.
