Trystan Casey
Building an electric fence is a complex task that requires careful planning and execution to ensure effectiveness and safety. While it is possible to build a cheap electric fence, it is important to prioritize safety and follow guidelines to avoid potential hazards. The process involves selecting the appropriate energizer, testing the earth, installing fence lines, and ensuring proper grounding. Safety precautions include using caution with high voltage, avoiding direct connection to electricity boards, and periodically interrupting the electrical power to prevent prolonged contact. The materials used, such as posts, wires, insulators, and earth stakes, can be chosen based on cost and effectiveness. Building a cheap electric fence requires creativity, resourcefulness, and strict adherence to safety guidelines.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To keep animals out or in |
| Power Source | Mains electricity, battery, or solar power |
| Fence Material | Wood, metal, plastic, or fiberglass |
| Gate | Electrified or non-electrified |
| Energizer | Control unit that regulates the pulse on the electric fence |
| Insulators | Prevent electricity from traveling to the ground |
| Earth Stakes | Antennae for the electrical flow to run back to |
| Faults | Caused by wet grass, loose debris, broken insulators, etc. |
| Safety | Must post signs and periodically interrupt power |
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What You'll Learn
Choose an energiser
The energiser is a critical component of your electric fence, creating an electric pulse that travels through the fence. When an animal touches the fence, it completes the circuit, allowing the pulse to travel through its body and into the ground, through the grounding system, and back into the energiser. Poor grounding is the cause of 90% of the problems electric fence users experience.
The type of energiser you choose depends on several factors: the length of your fence, the amount of vegetation that may grow on the conductors, the type of fencing material, the type of animal, and whether a 230-volt power source is available.
If you have access to a 230-volt power source, a mains-powered energiser is a good option. This type of energiser is located inside a building and does not use batteries. It is also low-cost to operate. However, be aware that a line-powered fencer could develop a short between the mains and the fence, which could be lethal.
If you don't have access to a 230-volt power source or want a more portable option, a battery-powered energiser may be a better choice. Dry battery-powered energisers are easy to relocate and require no maintenance. They typically last 4 to 6 months before needing to be replaced. If you plan to move your electric fence frequently, this type of energiser is a good choice.
For a permanent or infrequently moved electric fence, a wet battery-powered energiser is a better option. This type of energiser typically lasts longer than dry battery-powered options.
Another option for powering your electric fence is solar power. Solar panels can be used to convert solar energy into electricity, which can then be stored in batteries for use as needed. This option can be more expensive upfront but may save you money in the long run, especially if your fence is in a sunny location.
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Install fence lines
To install fence lines, you will need posts, insulators, and wire. The type of fencing material you choose will determine the type of energizer you will need. If you are using a non-conductive material such as plastic or fibreglass, you will not need insulators. However, if you are using wood or metal posts, you will need insulators to keep the electricity from travelling from the wire through the post and into the ground.
Before you begin, test the earth using a metal bar or earth stake. Place the metal bar or earth stake at least 328 feet (100 m) from the stakes, and short the electric fence to earth. One probe of the voltmeter must be connected to a stake, and the other probe should be pushed into the ground as far away from the stake as possible. If the reading is 400 or 500 volts, the fence is fine. If it reads less than 400 or 500 volts, the condition of the earth needs to improve. Add additional earth stakes 3.3 feet (1.0 m) apart and connect the top of each stake with lead-out cable.
Once you have prepared the earth, you can begin to install the fence lines. If you are using PVC pipe, push it into the ground to a depth of 18 inches or however far you prefer. Secure the fence wire to the fence posts with loops of electrical wire. Attach the wire to your posts with insulators and lay the metal strand out along the entire perimeter of the area you wish to enclose. Use 6-inch pieces of electric wire, bend them in half, and put the bend of each of these fasteners over the fence wire. Then, run the ends through a hole in one of your posts and crimp the tips in opposite directions on the back of the pipe.
If you are using a gate, you will need to transfer power from one side of the gate to the other with an under-gate cable. You can use underground or lead-out cable for this. If your gate will be electrified, you will need a gate anchor, cut-out switch, or gate kit.
Finally, test your fence to ensure it is functioning properly. You can use a tester to measure the current and voltage on the fence.
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Use a grounding system
Grounding is critical to the success of an electric fence. Poor grounding is the cause of 90% of issues with electric fences. A grounding system ensures that an electric pulse travels from the fence, through an animal's body, into the ground, and back into the energizer. This keeps the fence functioning properly and safely.
To ground your electric fence, start by locating an area of soil that contains good, conductive earth (not sandy or rocky). The grounding system should be within range of your fence energizer, but at least 25 feet away from buildings with metal siding. Most fences will need two or three grounding rods, spaced about ten feet apart, near the start of the fence. Dry, rocky soil may require additional ground rods. These rods are made of galvanized steel, with a minimum length of four feet for best results. Copper rods should be avoided as they diminish the effectiveness of the fence system. The rods are installed by pounding them into the ground. Once the ground rods are installed, connect them to your energizer by running an insulated wire from your energizer to the nearest ground rod.
It is important to keep checking the level of electrical current to ensure that it is effective enough to contain your livestock or deter predators. Test your grounding system with a voltage tester during the driest and wettest periods of the year to make sure your fence is working effectively in all conditions. During drier seasons, it might be necessary to upgrade your grounding system by adding more ground rods. Vegetation and plant growth can also affect the circuit, so it is important to check your system frequently and make small changes as needed.
It is important to note that you should never connect electric fence energizers to electricity board earth, water pipes, or building stanchions.
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Add a gate
When adding a gate to an electric fence, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, plan the placement of the gate. Gates should be placed in locations where people, animals, and equipment need easy access, such as entrances to barns, stables, or pastures. It is important to use a suitable gate type for the placement. For example, a heavy metal gate may be more suitable for openings along the perimeter, while a simpler gate opening, like a single wire attached to a gate handle, may be adequate for interior fences.
The type of gate you choose will also depend on whether you want it to be electrified or not. If you choose to electrify the gate, you will need to install a heavily insulated underground cable to maintain the flow of electricity when the gate is open. This can be done by using an under-gate cable, such as a 20,000-volt hookup wire, to carry the electrical current under the gate opening to the other side. Bury the cable at least 25 to 30 cm underground, and consider protecting it with a plastic pipe to prevent damage from heavy traffic or sharp objects like rocks.
Additionally, gate handles are important to consider. They come in various shapes and sizes and are insulated to allow you to open and close the gate without receiving a shock. Handles should be chosen based on the type of cable used, such as tape, wire, or rope, and some handles have springs to allow for easier opening and closing. Gate kits are also available, which include handles, anchors, and insulators, ensuring you have the right components for your gate setup.
For temporary fence structures, it is recommended to have only one gate located at either end of the fence line, ensuring the fence remains electrified whether the gate is open or closed. In contrast, permanent gateways require running an insulated cable underground to maintain electricity flow when the gate is open.
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Test the fence
Once you have built your electric fence, it is important to test it to ensure it is functioning properly. Here is a step-by-step guide to testing your electric fence:
Firstly, test the earth. Use a metal bar or earth stake that is at at least 328 feet (100 m) away from the stakes, and short the electric fence to the ground. Connect one probe of a voltmeter to the stake, and the other probe should be pushed into the ground as far away from the stake as possible. A reading of 400 to 500 volts indicates that the fence is functioning correctly. If the reading is lower, you may need to improve the condition of the earth by adding additional earth stakes that are 3.3 feet (1 m) apart and connected by a lead-out cable.
Next, test the fence lines. You can use testers to measure the current and voltage on the fence to ensure it is working as intended. Testers can also help to detect, find, and correct any faults in the fence. Faults can be caused by various factors, such as wet grass or loose debris touching the wire, broken insulators, or damage that causes the wires to fall and touch the ground. It is important to locate and fix any faults before using the electric fence.
Additionally, if your fence includes a gate, you should test it to ensure it is functioning properly. Depending on your setup, you may need to use an under-gate cable to transfer power from one side of the gate to the other. If your gate is electrified, you may need additional components such as a gate anchor, cut-out switch, or a gate kit. Test the gate to make sure it is operating correctly and safely.
It is important to prioritize safety when testing and operating your electric fence. Ensure that you follow local regulations and safety guidelines, and consider posting signs on the fence to warn people and animals of the electric current. Always exercise caution when working with electricity, and if you are unsure about any aspect of the testing or setup process, consult a professional or seek advice from a knowledgeable source.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need an energiser, posts, wire, insulators, earth stakes, end strainers, wire joiners or connection bolts, signs, and a lead-out cable.
The type of energiser depends on the length of the fence, the amount of vegetation, the type of fencing material, the type of animal, and whether a 230-volt power source is available. Use a mains-powered energiser if possible, as these are low-cost to operate and do not require batteries.
The easiest and safest method is to buy a ready-made fence. If you are set on building your own, the cheapest option is to use plastic posts, as good fence poles can cost a small fortune.
