Trystan Casey
Building an electric fence on rocky terrain can be challenging, but it is possible with careful planning and the right tools. Electric fences are an effective way to keep livestock contained and pests out of your yard. They are also simple to install and maintain, making them a popular choice for many homeowners and farmers. When building an electric fence in rocky terrain, it is crucial to consider the unique challenges posed by the terrain, such as finding quality, moist soil to ensure proper electricity flow and grounding the fence securely to prevent shocks. Additionally, choosing the appropriate energizer or charger and selecting the right type of wire or tape for your fence are key considerations.
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What You'll Learn
Choosing the right energizer
The energizer, or fencer, is the cornerstone of any electric fence. It is imperative that you select the right energizer to successfully contain or exclude animals. There are three main types of energizers: AC-powered/plug-in, DC-powered/battery-powered, and solar-powered.
AC-powered energizers are the most popular type and are perfect for large areas of fencing. They are typically powered by a 110V or 220V electrical plug-in outlet and can be used for fence lines up to 200 miles long. These energizers provide the best output compared to solar or DC-powered units.
DC-powered energizers are ideal for remote locations where an electrical outlet is unavailable. They are powered by batteries, typically 12V deep-cycle marine batteries, and are easy to use. However, the batteries need to be accessible for frequent checking and recharging.
Solar-powered energizers are also suitable for remote locations without access to an electrical outlet. They contain a battery that is recharged by a solar panel, providing a continuous power source. Solar energizers tend to be the most expensive option and require sufficient daily sunlight to be effective.
When choosing an energizer, it is important to consider factors such as the length of the fence, the number of wires, the power source, and the type of animal being contained or excluded. For example, animals with thick coats, such as sheep and goats, may require a larger energizer than cattle or horses. Additionally, the presence of weeds and vegetation on the fence can impact the energizer's effectiveness, and a stronger charger may be needed to compensate for power loss.
It is recommended to purchase a larger energizer than you need to allow for expansion and to ensure sufficient power. The energizer should be low impedance and certified safe by recognised organisations. Checking customer ratings and reviews can also help determine the most suitable energizer for your specific requirements.
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Grounding system
A grounding system is essential to the proper functioning of an electric fence. It is important to locate an area of soil that contains good, conductive earth (not sandy or rocky). The grounding system should be within range of your fence energizer, but at least 25 feet away from buildings with metal siding.
Most fences will need two or three grounding rods, spaced about ten feet apart, near the beginning of the fence. Dry or rocky soil may require additional ground rods. These rods are either six or eight feet high and are installed by pounding them into the ground. The tips are made of hardened steel, allowing them to split rocks. The rods are made to be durable, so don't be afraid to use force when installing them.
The first grounding rod must be driven into the soil within 20 feet of the fence energizer. Additional grounding rods should be spaced 10 feet apart from the previous rod. For ease of installation, pour water into the entry point when pounding in your ground rods. A sledgehammer, T-post driver, or hammer drill can be used to install the rods into the soil. The rods should be driven as deep as possible, with only a few inches remaining above the ground to clamp on the wire.
Once the ground rods are installed, connect them to your energizer. Start by running an insulated wire from your energizer to the nearest ground rod. Then, connect the wire to the ground rod clamps. Finally, connect the insulated wire to your energizer. The energizer has two connectors, one for the live wire and the other for the ground. Look for the ground symbol to ensure you are connecting it to the correct side. After you install your grounding system and the electric current is working, it’s important to keep checking the level of electrical current to ensure that it is effective enough to contain your livestock or deter predators.
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Planning the layout
Determine the Purpose and Scope:
Start by considering the purpose of your electric fence. Are you trying to contain livestock, such as goats or horses, or are you aiming to keep wild animals and intruders out? Knowing the type and number of animals involved will help you decide on the appropriate height, length, and number of wires needed for your fence. Take careful measurements of the area you plan to enclose, considering the length and width required for your specific needs.
Choose the Right Components:
Select the right type of fencing material, such as electric fence tape or straight wire of varying thicknesses. Tape is often easier to see and less dangerous, making it a safer option. Consider the number of wires you will use and the spacing between them. Additionally, decide on the type of posts you will use, such as wood or metal posts, keeping in mind that wood posts may degrade over time, while metal posts are easier to set in the ground. If you choose wooden or metal posts, remember to use insulators to prevent electricity from travelling through the post and into the ground.
Brace and Gate Considerations:
Each corner of your electric fence will need to be braced with a corner piece. Determine how many brace corners you will need, keeping in mind that 6 or fewer lines require one brace, while 7 or more lines need a double brace. Additionally, consider the type of gate you will use. If you choose to exclude the gate from electrification, you may simply terminate and restart the fence around it, using an underground or lead-out cable. If you want the gate to be electrified, you can use a gate anchor, cut-out switch, or a gate kit.
Grounding System and Energizer:
Plan for a grounding system consisting of at least three 6-foot galvanized steel rods placed 10 feet apart and linked by a wire to the energizer. The energizer is a crucial component that creates an electric pulse in the fence. Choose an energizer based on factors such as fence length, vegetation on conductors, fencing material, and the availability of a power source. If you have a permanent fence, consider a wet battery-powered energizer, while a dry battery-powered energizer is suitable for fences that are moved frequently.
Safety and Compliance:
It is important to comply with local regulations and safety standards. In many countries, you must post signs on the fence that are readable by humans but not by the animals you are containing. Additionally, ensure that you have a mechanism to temporarily turn off the fence to prevent people or animals from being shocked continuously. This can be achieved by having the power on for one second and then turning it off for one second, allowing individuals to safely detach themselves from the fence.
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Selecting the right wire
Poly Wire
Poly wire is a popular choice for portable or temporary electric fencing. It is made of plastic strands embedded with thin metal wires that carry the electrical current. Poly wire is twisted tightly to form a single wire. While it lacks the strength of steel wire fencing, it won't rust and is more visible to animals. Smaller diameters are suitable for cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs, while larger diameters are recommended for horses. Poly wire is also a good option for shorter fence lines that are moved frequently.
Poly Tape
Poly tape is another option that combines plastic and wire strands to create a highly visible ribbon. It is strong, weather-resistant, and rust-proof. The colour of the tape can be selected based on the background for better visibility. Thicker tapes are recommended for perimeter fences, but they may not be ideal in strong winds.
Poly Braid
Poly braid is a similar option to poly tape but is better suited for areas with strong winds. It is designed to be tangle-resistant and easy to install.
High Tensile Wire
High tensile wire is suitable for permanent fences over large areas. It is available in galvanized steel or aluminum. Both options are strong, durable, and low maintenance. Galvanized steel is more economical, while aluminum offers superior conductivity but tends to be more expensive. High tensile wire fencing is not recommended for fast-moving animals like horses due to the risk of injury.
Equine Fence Wire
If you own horses, equine fence wire is the safest and most effective option. It is a long-life, high-tension fence with a specially designed coating to reduce the risk of injury.
Aluminum or Steel Wire
Aluminum or steel wire is a cost-effective and simple option for electric fencing. The gauge of the wire matters, as a larger diameter provides more surface area for electricity to travel, resulting in less resistance. Most electric fences use 14 or 17 gauge wire, depending on the length of the fence and the type of animal.
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Testing the earth
Firstly, locate a consistently moist area of soil within 75 feet of the fence energizer. The soil's conductivity is key to the fence's success, so avoid sandy, dry, and rocky soil. The ground system should be at at least 25 feet from buildings with metal siding.
Next, you will need to test the voltage. To do this, use a metal bar or earth stake at least 328 feet (100m) from the stakes, and short the electric fence to earth. One probe of the voltmeter should be connected to a stake, and the other pushed into the ground as far away from the stake as possible. If the reading is 400 or 500 volts, the fence is fine. If the reading is lower, the condition of the earth needs to be improved.
If the voltage is too low, you may need to add additional earth stakes 3.3 feet (1m) apart, connecting the tops of each stake with lead-out cable. Re-check the voltage. You can also try improving the conductivity of the soil by regularly watering the area or using a super-grounding mixture of water, bentonite, and coarse rock salt.
It is recommended to test your system at least once a year at the height of any dry period to ensure the grounding capacity is sufficient.
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Frequently asked questions
The basic components of an electric fence are a power unit, a grounding system, and a fence. The power unit, or energizer, creates an electric pulse that travels through the fence. The grounding system ensures that the electric pulse can travel through the body of an animal that touches the fence, into the ground, and back into the energizer. The fence itself is a continuous wire that goes around fence posts, using plastic standoffs to keep the wire off any conductive material.
The type of energizer you choose depends on the length of your fence, the amount of vegetation that may grow on the conductors, the type of fencing material, the type of animals you are trying to contain or exclude, and the availability of a 230-volt power source.
A grounding system should consist of at least three 6' galvanized steel rods placed 10' apart, linked by a wire that leads to the energizer. Additional ground rods may be needed for larger energizers or fences with more conductive material. Small, portable fences may use a single 3' ground rod with a T-handle for easier installation and removal.
The stakes or posts of an electric fence need to be made out of plastic or fibreglass—something that doesn't conduct electricity. For larger fences, wood posts can be used with insulated knobs or rings to hook the wire onto or through. The wire itself can be electric fence tape or a variety of straight wire of various thicknesses. Tape is the easiest to see and is less dangerous than straight wire.
You can test your electric fence by using a voltmeter. Connect one probe of the voltmeter to a metal bar or earth stake, and push the other probe into the ground as far away from the stake as possible. If the reading is 400 or 500 volts, your fence is working. If it reads less than 400 or 500 volts, you may have a short circuit or some kind of interference in the fence.
