
Electric fans can be wired in a variety of ways, depending on factors such as the size of the fan, the number of fans, and the desired level of control. One common method is to use a relay, which is a switch that is triggered by a temperature transmitter or switch. This allows the fan to turn on and off automatically based on the temperature, rather than requiring manual control. When wiring an electric fan with a relay, it is important to identify the correct wires and connections to ensure a safe and proper installation. This may include connecting the positive wire from the fan to the relay, grounding the negative wire, and providing a constant power source through a fuse or circuit breaker.
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What You'll Learn

Wiring electric fans with a relay kit
Wiring an electric fan with a relay kit is a relatively simple process, but it is important to follow the correct steps to ensure a safe and effective installation. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to wire an electric fan with a relay kit:
Firstly, it is important to find a suitable location for the relay. The relay should be installed in an area that is away from excessive heat and moisture, and it should not be exposed to the elements such as water splashing. It is also recommended to use a self-tapping screw to secure the relay in place.
Next, you will need to connect the wires from the relay to the electric fan and the power source. The specific wiring configuration may vary depending on the relay and fan you are using, but here is a general guide:
The red wire from the relay (usually labelled as 87) connects to the positive wire on the electric fan. Another red wire from the relay (labelled as 30) needs to be connected to a constant 12-volt power source, which is typically the battery. It is important to connect this wire to the battery through a fuse or a circuit breaker to protect the circuit.
The black wire from the cooling fan connects to the ground. If your relay has a temperature-controlled sending unit, it will have two male spade connectors. One of these connectors will go to the black wire on the relay, and the other needs to go to the ground. It is recommended to use a star washer to ensure a good ground connection.
For dual cooling fans, you may need to install a second relay kit if each fan draws more than 15 amps. Additionally, make sure that you have a ground connection from both fans.
Finally, test your wiring by letting the car warm up to temperature. Once the fan kicks on, you should be able to feel if it is pulling air from the front of the car. If it is not working as expected, turn off the car, and swap the two wires connected to the fan.
It is important to refer to the manufacturer's wiring diagram for your specific electric fan and relay kit to ensure a correct and safe installation.
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Where the four wires of an electric fan relay go
Wiring an electric fan with a relay is a simple setup, but it can be confusing if you are unsure about which wires go where. The wire colours may vary depending on your electric fan relay kit supplier, but the relay numbers will be the same.
Firstly, wire 85 connects the relay to the thermostatic switch, determining when the fan is operational. Secondly, wire 86 is the connection to your car’s ignition switch. Thirdly, wire 87 (red wire) connects to the positive wire on the electric fan. Finally, wire 30 (another red wire) links to your car battery, requiring a constant 12-volt current.
If your fan is drawing more than 15 amps, you may need to install a second relay kit. You should also ensure that the wire to term 30 and the wire from term 87 can handle the maximum current for your fan. It is also important to note that you should not run a mechanical fan with an electrical fan on the same side of the radiator.
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Connecting a ground wire to relay terminal 85
Before connecting the ground wire to terminal 85, it is essential to understand the basic configuration of an electric fan relay. Typically, an electric fan relay will have several terminals, including 30, 85, 86, 87, and sometimes 87a. Terminal 30 is for power and connects to the battery or ignition switch. Terminal 87 is the load and connects to the fan positive. Terminal 86 supplies power to the relay's internal electromagnet, and terminal 85 grounds the electromagnet.
When connecting the ground wire to terminal 85, it is important to follow standard wiring practices and safety precautions. Ensure that the ground wire is securely attached to the terminal and that there is continuity between the terminal and the ground. This can be tested using a multimeter to measure resistance and verify the connection.
In some cases, the wiring configuration may vary, especially when dealing with older vehicles. For example, on some classic cars, the wiring may be set up to run the fan directly from the ignition switch, bypassing the relay. In such cases, connecting the ground wire to terminal 85 may not be necessary, as the fan's operation may be controlled differently.
It is worth noting that while terminal 85 is typically associated with the ground, there may be exceptions in certain relay configurations. For instance, in some diode relays, terminal 86 serves as the ground instead of terminal 85. Therefore, it is always advisable to consult the manufacturer's wiring diagram or seek guidance from a professional before proceeding with any electrical modifications.
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Using a temperature-controlled switch
A temperature-controlled switch, on the other hand, is designed to turn the fan on and off at specific coolant temperatures. For example, the switch may turn the fan on when coolant temperatures reach 195 degrees Fahrenheit and turn it off when the temperature drops to 185 degrees Fahrenheit. This type of switch can be installed in one of the cooling passage ports on the intake manifold, using a high-temperature thread sealant to prevent leaks.
The wiring of the electric fan with a relay involves connecting the positive wire from the fan to one of the two red wires on the relay, while the negative wire goes to the ground. It is important to note that the positive wire from the relay should not be connected directly to the positive terminal on the battery. The relay kit typically includes all the necessary connectors to splice the wires together, and it is recommended to use a good crimp connector and follow the provided instructions for a smooth installation.
Additionally, the relay should be mounted in an area that is largely free of significant moisture within the engine bay or within the inner fender well to hide the wiring. It is also important to ensure that the relay is not exposed to excessive heat or elements such as water splashing up from the road.
The temperature sender, which is a component of the relay kit, provides a ground signal at a specific temperature, such as 185 degrees Fahrenheit, and shuts off when the temperature drops below 165 degrees Fahrenheit. The orange wire on the relay should receive a 12-volt signal when the ignition switch is turned on. The yellow wire connects to the battery, and the red wire from the relay connects to the cooling fan. The black wire from the fan then connects to the ground, completing the circuit.
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Where to mount the relay
When it comes to mounting electric fan relays, there are a few things to consider. Firstly, it is important to keep the relays away from excessive heat and moisture. This rules out mounting them directly on the radiator support, as some have suggested. One user on Team Chevelle reported that they installed their relays in the engine bay on the passenger side, above the headlights and the battery tray. This location is generally safe from water and provides easy access to the power source.
Another option is to mount the relays inside the car, under the dash, as close to the power source as possible. This location is also relatively protected from the elements and provides easy access for wiring. However, it is important to note that the engine bay can get quite hot, so ensure the relays are not too close to any heat sources.
Some people choose to mount their relays under the fender, close to the battery. While this provides easy access to the battery, it is important to be cautious of water when washing the car or driving in wet conditions, as water can damage the relays over time. To mitigate this, you can use IP67-rated relays and socket housings, which are designed to withstand moisture.
Ultimately, the location for mounting the relays is up to the individual, but it is important to consider factors such as heat, moisture, and access to power and wiring when making your decision. It is also worth investing in a good-quality relay kit, such as the Painless Performance FAN-THOM kit, which provides constant voltage and protects from voltage and amperage spikes. Additionally, consider the power demands of your cooling fan and ensure the relay can handle the current required.
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Frequently asked questions
Relays are simple and there is a standard 4 or 5-prong relay that almost everyone uses. The 5th prong is usually not used. The relay protects a switch circuit as most automotive sockets can't convey high currents. The relay is triggered by a temperature transmitter or switch, which turns it on.
First, ensure that your thermostat is wired to your fan's negative, indicating it is operating as a ground switch. Then, remove the thermostat wire from the fan negative and connect it to the relay's #86 terminal. Finally, connect the fan's negative wire to the ground.
Coil positive (85) hooks to ignition positive, coil trigger (86) hooks to the fan thermostat negative, load (87) goes to fan positive, and power (30) goes to the battery.
You can wire the electric fan to run all the time, but it is better to hook it up with an electric fan relay kit that is temperature controlled. Install the temperature-controlled sending unit in one of the cooling passage ports on your intake manifold. The positive wire from the fan connects to the red wire on the relay, and the negative wire goes to the ground.
Ensure that you have a ground connection from both fans. If you have a smaller fan, you can connect both fans to one relay and install a fuse to protect your circuit. If your fuse blows, you are drawing too much power on your system and need to add a second relay kit.





































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