
Many older vehicles, especially those built for performance, have manual chokes. However, some people prefer manual chokes and opt to convert their automatic or electric chokes. This can be done using a conversion kit, which connects the carb's choke plate to a manual choke knob mounted in or under the dashboard. The process involves disconnecting and insulating the feed wire from the sensor and removing the choke unit by unscrewing the screws that pass through a clamp ring holding it in place. A manual choke conversion kit typically includes a cable support bracket, a choke knob mounting bracket, choke cover caps, a choke plate actuating fork, and a manual choke cable.
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What You'll Learn

Buy a conversion kit
If you're looking to convert your electric choke to a manual one, you can buy a conversion kit. These kits are designed to work with specific carburettors, so it's important to check with your car dealer or accessory shop to see if a kit is available for your particular carburettor.
There are a variety of conversion kits available on the market, such as the Dorman 55101 Choke Conversion Kit, which is a universal fit for a wide range of vehicles, including cars and trucks. This kit includes all the necessary parts, such as a cable support bracket, choke knob mounting bracket, choke cover caps, a choke plate actuating fork, and a manual choke cable.
Another option is the Holley Manual Choke Conversion Kit, which is designed for Holley 2300, 4150, or 4160-series carburetors with mounting bosses on the side of the main body. This kit includes all the necessary parts for a fast and easy conversion, although the hand choke cable and bracket are sold separately.
You can find these conversion kits at various retailers, including Amazon.com and Jegs.com. It's important to read reviews and do your research to ensure you're getting a kit that is compatible with your vehicle and easy to install.
Keep in mind that prices for these kits can vary, ranging from $10 to $50, so it's worth shopping around to find the best option for your needs and budget.
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Disconnect the feed wire
Disconnecting the feed wire is a crucial step in converting an electric choke to a manual choke. Here is a detailed guide on how to do it:
Locate the electric choke: The choke is typically located near the carburetor. It is a small, cylindrical device usually made of metal, and it has a black or brown wire connected to it. You can identify the choke by its colour, and it is often located on the side of the carburetor.
Disconnect the battery: Before you begin working on disconnecting the feed wire, it is essential to ensure that the power to the choke is turned off. This can be done by disconnecting the battery or by turning off the ignition switch. Turning off the power is a safety precaution that needs to be taken seriously.
Identify the feed wire: The choke has two wires connected to it: a power wire and a ground wire. The power wire is typically red, while the ground wire is usually black or brown. Identify which wire is the feed wire, as this is the one you will be disconnecting.
Insulate and secure the wire: After disconnecting the feed wire, it is important to insulate it to prevent any accidental electrical connections. Use electrical tape or another suitable insulating material to cover the exposed wire ends. Then, tie the insulated wire out of the way to ensure it doesn't interfere with other components.
Verify the disconnection: Before proceeding with the conversion, double-check that the feed wire is indeed disconnected and that there is no electrical continuity between the wire and the choke. Use a multimeter or a similar tool to test for continuity. This step ensures that you have successfully disconnected the feed wire.
By following these steps, you will safely and effectively disconnect the feed wire from the electric choke, allowing you to proceed with the conversion process to a manual choke. Remember to take your time, work carefully, and ensure that the power is off before beginning any work.
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Remove the choke unit
To remove the choke unit, you will need to first disconnect the choke from the cooling system or electrical feed, depending on whether it is plumbed into the cooling system or electrically operated.
If your choke is plumbed into the cooling system, take off the radiator cap and disconnect the two hoses from the choke. You can then join the two hose ends with a length of tubing. If your choke is electrically operated, disconnect and insulate the feed wire from the sensor and tie it out of the way.
The next step is to remove the choke unit from the carburettor. The choke unit is fixed to the carburettor by screws that pass through a clamp ring holding the choke unit housing to the carburettor body. Remove all the securing screws and pull the unit away. Keep the old gasket and clamp ring from the choke unit, as you may need them later.
Now that the choke unit has been removed, you can begin assembling the spring and nut to the interface mechanism. Refer to the fitting instructions for your specific conversion kit for detailed instructions on how to assemble the spring and nut.
It is important to note that removing and converting a choke unit requires mechanical knowledge and skills. If you are unsure about any part of the process, it is recommended to consult a professional mechanic or seek advice from a trusted source.
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Install the adapter unit
To install the adapter unit, start by keeping the operating lever in its position between the arm and spring of the interface. Next, fit the adapter unit (dished side first) over the central boss of the interface. Ensure that the metal tab on the housing is fitted into the loop on the wound spring in the choke cap. You can check this by rotating the choke cap; it should open and close the choke plate.
Secure the unit to the carburettor using the kit's securing screws and the old clamp ring from the auto-choke unit. If your choke is electrically operated, disconnect and insulate the feed wire from the sensor and tie it out of the way.
Now, find out which way your choke flap opens, then cut off one of the two cable spool stop lugs from the anchor plate. Fit the anchor plate to the adapter unit, securing it with the retaining spring clip positioned under the four lugs on the adapter.
Finally, make sure the choke butterfly is set to the fully off position and fit the cable spool to the interface bearing at the centre of the assembly. The flange of the spool should be butted against the remaining cable spool stop lug attached to the anchor plate. Secure it with the central screw.
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Mount the control knob
To mount the control knob, you must first find a suitable position on the dashboard. The control knob can be mounted by drilling into the dashboard or using the brackets provided. The cable should then be run under the dashboard and into the engine bay. You may need to drill a hole and fit a grommet in the bulkhead to pass the cable through.
The cable is an important component of the choke system. It is attached to the choke lever, and you must learn to pull it gently to avoid damaging the mechanism. The cable should be run through the engine bay bulkhead and linked to the carburettor.
The choke control knob is an essential part of the conversion process, allowing the driver to control the choke manually. The knob is connected to the choke cable, which in turn is connected to the choke plate. Pulling the knob closes the choke plate for starting the engine, and pushing it back in opens the choke plate once the engine is warmed up.
The choke control knob is usually mounted in or under the dashboard, providing easy access for the driver. The mounting process may vary depending on the specific conversion kit used, so it is important to refer to the instructions provided with the kit.
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Frequently asked questions
You can usually convert an automatic choke to a manual choke using a special conversion kit. The first step is to remove the manual choke plate by unscrewing it. Then, disconnect the choke from the cooling system and the feed wire from the sensor. Next, fit the adapter unit over the central boss of the interface and secure it with screws. Cut off one of the two cable spool stop lugs and fit the anchor plate. Set the choke butterfly to the fully off position and fit the cable spool to the interface bearing. Finally, mount the warning light and choke control knob on the dash.
The exact components included in an electric choke conversion kit will vary depending on the manufacturer and the specific carburetor you have. However, most kits include a choke cable, a choke knob, mounting brackets, choke cover caps, a choke plate actuating fork, and other necessary hardware. Some kits also include a warning light.
Yes, there are universal choke conversion kits available, such as the Dorman 55101 Choke Conversion Kit, which fits a wide range of vehicles with original or aftermarket parts.
Yes, if you are having issues with your Holley electric choke, you can consider a $50 temperature-controlled switch to delay the opening of the clutch, or a $10 manual conversion kit.











































