Molly Ayala
Electric chokes are a common feature on many cars, and knowing how to wire them up correctly is essential for car enthusiasts and mechanics alike. While the process may seem daunting, understanding the basics will help you get it right. Electric chokes require a full 12 volts to function, and it's crucial to avoid connecting them to the coil or ignition, as this can lead to issues. Instead, follow manufacturer recommendations and connect to the stator output of the alternator, specifically the stator lug, to ensure optimal performance. Let's delve into the details and explore the intricacies of wiring an electric choke.
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What You'll Learn
The stator lug on the alternator is the correct connection
When hooking up an electric choke, it is important to consider the power source to prevent the choke from functioning improperly, which can lead to poor gas mileage and potential engine issues. The stator lug on the alternator is the correct connection for an electric choke to work as designed. This is because the stator will only output voltage when the engine is running and warming up, ensuring that the choke only opens at the right time.
Connecting the choke to the stator output of the alternator is especially important if you want to avoid issues with your coil and ignition switch. The stator will provide a consistent voltage to the choke, preventing any voltage drops that could cause coil issues. This is in contrast to the ignition switch, which may provide inconsistent voltage and lead to problems with the choke's performance.
Additionally, the stator lug connection ensures that the choke does not have power when the key is off or when the engine is cranking or stalled. This is a safety feature that can prevent issues such as draining your battery. It is worth noting that some generic aftermarket instructions may advise connecting to a switched 12-volt source, but this is not necessary for the choke to function correctly.
For Ford vehicles, in particular, the stator post of the alternator has been the standard connection for electric chokes, and millions of Fords have been factory-fitted this way. This connection has proven to work well, and the voltage variations at the stator post do not affect the choke coil's operation. However, it is important to note that this specific connection method may not be suitable for non-Ford vehicles or newer models.
In summary, the stator lug on the alternator is the correct connection for an electric choke, ensuring that the choke operates as intended and only opens when the engine is running and warming up. This connection method also helps to avoid potential issues with the coil, ignition switch, and battery drainage.
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Don't connect to an unswitched source
When hooking up an electric choke, it is important to avoid connecting it to an unswitched source, such as the battery. This is because doing so will result in the choke remaining pulled off all the time, which will, in turn, drain your battery.
The electric choke needs to be connected to a switched 12V source. This is because the choke is designed to slowly open as the engine warms up. If the choke is connected to an unswitched source, it will not function as intended and may lead to issues such as poor spark, bad gas mileage, and potential misfires.
It is recommended to connect the electric choke to the stator output of the alternator, specifically the stator lug, to ensure it functions as designed. This is because the stator will not output enough voltage to fully heat the coil inside the choke cap if connected to an unswitched source. By connecting it to the stator output, you can supply B+ (commonly referred to as 12V) to the choke, allowing it to operate effectively.
Additionally, when wiring the electric choke, it is crucial to verify that there is no voltage when the key is in the "off" position. This further emphasizes the importance of connecting the choke to a switched source, ensuring that it only receives power when the engine is running and not just when the ignition is on. By following these guidelines, you can avoid potential issues with the electric choke and ensure its proper functionality.
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Don't connect the power source to the coil or ignition
When hooking up an electric choke, it is important to consider where the power source should originate from. In this regard, it is advised not to connect the power source to the coil or ignition.
Firstly, connecting the power source to the coil can cause the choke to function improperly. This is because the coil is a low-impedance device, and having the choke pull-off on the wrong side of the coil (the points side) can lead to issues. Specifically, this setup can cause a poor spark, resulting in bad gas mileage and potential misfires.
Secondly, connecting the power source to the ignition can lead to similar problems. The ignition circuit often has insufficient current to power additional accessories, and attaching the electric choke to this circuit may cause the choke to not function properly. This can lead to poor spark, bad gas mileage, and potential engine starting issues.
Instead of connecting to the coil or ignition, it is recommended to connect the electric choke to a switched 12V source. This can be achieved by connecting to the S or STA terminal of the alternator, depending on the brand and version. This setup ensures that the choke only receives voltage when the engine is running, not just when the ignition is on.
Additionally, it is important to avoid connecting the electric choke to an unswitched source, such as directly to the battery. This can cause the choke to remain pulled off all the time, leading to battery drain.
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The choke wire and the windshield wiper hot wire
When hooking up an electric choke, it is important to consider the choke wire and the windshield wiper hot wire. The choke wire needs to be connected to a 12V power source, and one option is to splice it into the windshield wiper motor. However, this can cause issues with the wipers moving unexpectedly, as the wipers have a constant 12V power source and are switched via the ground leg.
One solution to this issue is to use a diode or find an alternative power source. Some suggest using a wire through the firewall to the "ign" terminal on the fusebox under the dash. Another option is to use a "'Y' spade connector" for the "ign" source on the fuseblock, which has been successful for some Chevy Camaro owners.
It is also important to consider the voltage output and how it will affect the choke coil. A full 12V may cause the choke coil to heat and open fully before the car is warmed up, so some recommend using the stator wire method, which only provides 12V when the alternator is supplying current to the car. This method also ensures that the choke coil does not burn out, as it is not receiving power when the engine is off.
To avoid issues with coil performance, bad gas mileage, and potential misfires, it is recommended to connect the choke to the solenoid or directly to the battery. Specifically, the S terminal of the alternator is a good choice as it provides less than 12V, allowing the choke to open slowly. This method has been used successfully for many years without issues. Additionally, it is important to test the potential power source to ensure it is only hot when the key is turned to "Run" and not in any other position.
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The positive lead and the 10-amp fuse
The electric choke has two wiring connections, one positive and one negative. The positive lead should be used in conjunction with a 10-amp fuse. The positive lead should be connected to a circuit that is only hot when the engine is running. This is to ensure that the choke is only receiving voltage when the engine is running, not just when the ignition is on.
The 10-amp fuse is important because the choke can consume 7-9 amps, depending on the voltage, and this load can cause misfires and motor problems on a single-wire feed. Additionally, the choke needs 12 volts to operate correctly, and the stator only provides 6-9 volts, so a relay is often used to ensure the choke receives full voltage.
There are a few different ways to wire the positive lead and the 10-amp fuse. One way is to run a wire from the stator to the choke, and if the choke opens too slowly, use the stator wire to trigger a relay with a 12V source. Another way is to run a clean wire back to a 10A fuse tap off the hot-in-ignition accessory fuse. A third option is to run a wire from the ACC post inside the car to the fuse block and put a 10-amp inline fuse on the choke wire.
It is important to note that the positive lead should not be connected to the distributor side of the coil, as this can cause the choke to function improperly, lead to bad gas mileage, and potentially cause a misfire.
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Frequently asked questions
A full 12 volts is required for an electric choke to function properly.
The stator lug on the alternator is the correct connection for an electric choke to work as designed.
Some common issues with electric choke wiring include coil issues due to voltage drops, improper functioning of the choke, poor spark leading to bad gas mileage, and potential misfires.
