Trystan Casey
Electric fences are a cost-effective way to control animals and can be used temporarily or permanently. They are a psychological barrier, and animals will stay away once they learn that touching the fence will shock them. Setting up an electric fence involves preparing the site, installing the fence, fence charger, and ground system, and checking the voltage. It is important to select the appropriate materials and ensure correct installation for the fence to work properly.
How to Hook Up an Electric Fence
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Installation | Install the fence, fence charger, and ground system. |
| Ground system | Install a ground system with three 6-foot-long ground rods, spaced 10 feet apart. |
| Ground rod clamps | Use clamps and galvanized wire or insulated cable to connect ground rods to each other and to the fence charger. |
| Fence charger | Install the fence charger (energizer) under cover, several feet above the ground. |
| Fence charger placement | Install solar-powered fence chargers in an open area facing south (northern hemisphere). |
| Connection | Use insulated cable, rated up to 20,000 volts, to connect the fence charger to the fence. |
| Fence type | Temporary electric fences are used to control animals inside a permanent fence and are easy to install, move, and take down. Permanent electric fences are used to fence in animals, fence out predators, and separate breeding animals. |
| Fence material | Temporary fences usually consist of one or two wires attached to plastic or metal rod posts. Permanent fences usually consist of multiple wires attached to steel "T" posts or wood posts. |
| Voltage | Voltage on a newly installed fence should exceed 3,000V. |
| Animal training | Put animals behind the new electric fence during daylight hours, giving them a chance to see it. It can take up to three days to train animals to your fence. |
| Animal deterrence | Electric fences can be used to keep out dogs, predators, deer, and other pests. |
| Pest control | Pest/predator fences must be checked constantly. |
| Fence maintenance | Use an electric fence tester to check for adequate voltage. |
| Fence removal | Disconnect the fence from the energizer, then remove the posts from the soil, allowing the netting to fold together into 6-foot-long pleats. |
| Storage | Hang the bundled netting in a barn or shed to prevent rodent damage. |
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What You'll Learn
Site preparation
Planning and Measurement:
First, determine the purpose of your electric fence. Consider whether you aim to keep livestock contained or deter wild animals and intruders. Based on this, decide on the required size of the enclosure and the number of wires needed. Measure the perimeter of the area you plan to fence, taking into account the space between the edge of the garden and any nearby plants. These measurements will guide the amount of wiring and fencing materials required.
Selecting Materials:
Choose the type of wire or electric fence tape you want to use. Options include straight wire in various thicknesses, poly tape, braid, or rope. Ensure that your chosen material is easily visible to avoid accidental contact. Additionally, decide on the type of fence posts you prefer, such as wood or metal posts, keeping in mind their durability, ease of installation, and cost.
Gathering Components:
Acquire all the necessary parts for your electric fence installation. This includes electric fence wire, a suitable electric power box or charger, metal stakes, grounding posts, plastic hooks, round plastic rings, wire for connections, a sledgehammer or pile driver, wire cutter, and gloves for safety.
Brace Corners and Posts:
Determine the number of brace corners needed for your fence. Each corner will require a corner piece for support. If you have six or fewer lines, one brace at the ends and corners is sufficient. However, if you use seven or more lines, you will need to implement a double brace for added stability.
Charger Selection and Placement:
Choose the type of electric fence charger that suits your needs, such as electric, solar, battery, or voltage-powered options. Consider the power source and the accessibility of an AC outlet or sunlight for charging. Identify a weather-resilient location near an AC outlet or an area with ample sunlight for the charger. Ensure the charger is protected by hanging it on a post or wall of an outbuilding.
Grounding System:
Install an effective grounding system by inserting a grounding rod near the charger, leaving a few inches exposed above the ground. Install at least one additional grounding rod 10-20 feet away from the first one. Use ground rod clamps and galvanized wire or insulated cable to connect the ground rods to each other and the fence charger.
Remember to refer to the installation manuals and instructions provided with your specific fence components for detailed guidance on site preparation and installation.
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Unrolling the net
To unroll the net of an electric fence, start by gripping all the posts together as a group and lifting them up in front of you. This will allow the netting to unroll in front of you in a series of folded "pleats", each attached to the posts in your hands. Lay the unrolled pleats on the ground and locate the beginning post. The first post is the one with two tie strings attached and a stainless steel connector at the top.
For PermaNet®, it is easier to have two people for this step. Insert the beginning post into the soil beside a stronger support post or an existing fence. Use the two tie strings to secure the first post to the support post or fence. Keep the net end post(s) at least 2" away from anything that is conductive (metal, wood, concrete).
Now, grip all the remaining posts as a group and lift them up in front of you. Then, walk backward along the intended fence line, "feeding out" each post as it’s pulled from your hands, thereby unfolding the netting.
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Checking voltage
Checking the voltage of your electric fence is important to ensure it is working correctly and to prevent injury to humans or animals. Here are some detailed, step-by-step instructions on how to do this:
Firstly, it is important to note that you should never touch an electric fence to check for a current. Even if you are wearing gloves, this can be dangerous and is not a reliable method. Instead, you can use a voltmeter, also known as a voltage tester, to safely check the voltage. These tools can be purchased at most home improvement stores for a reasonable price, typically ranging from $20 to $50.
To use a voltmeter, start by standing near the section of the fence farthest from the fence charger. Identify the ground wire by referring to the fence manual. If there is no ground wire, you can touch the metal tip of the voltmeter probe into the soil near the fence. Hold the plastic part of the probe and use the metal tip to touch the identified ground wire. This should give you a voltage reading.
Non-contact voltmeters are also available, which are even easier to use as they do not require direct contact with the fence wires. Simply turn on the device and wait for a blinking red light on its tip. Stand within 5 feet of the fence and point the blinking tip towards it. If the voltmeter detects a charge, it may beep and glow with a steady red light. If it does not detect a charge, slowly move closer to the fence. Repeat this process along the entire fence to check for any faulty wires.
In addition to using voltmeters, you can also listen for a buzzing or humming sound that a working electric fence sometimes emits. However, always remember to approach but never touch the fence, as the voltage may be too high and cause dangerous shocks.
By regularly checking the voltage of your electric fence and following these instructions, you can ensure that your fence is functioning correctly and maintain a safe environment for both humans and animals.
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Moving/removing the net
When it comes to moving or removing an electric fence, the process will differ depending on whether you have a temporary or permanent fence.
Temporary electric fences are easy to move or take down. They typically consist of one or two wires attached to plastic or metal rod posts, spaced 20 to 30 feet apart. To move this type of fence, simply disconnect the wires from the posts and carefully remove the posts from the ground. If you are removing the fence entirely, roll up the wire and store it safely. If you are moving the fence to a new location, set up the posts in the new location and reattach the wires. Ensure that the new location is free of vegetation, as weeds and grass touching the wires can reduce voltage and impact the effectiveness of the fence.
Permanent electric fences, on the other hand, are more challenging to move or remove. They typically consist of multiple wires attached to steel "T" posts or wood posts. If you need to move or remove a section of the fence, start by disconnecting the wires from the posts. Then, carefully dig around the posts to loosen them before pulling them out of the ground. If you are removing the fence entirely, you can cut the posts into smaller pieces for easier handling. If you plan to move the fence to a new location, prepare the new site by installing new posts and reattaching the wires. Ensure that you follow the correct spacing and installation guidelines for permanent electric fences.
It is important to note that moving or removing an electric fence requires careful planning and execution. Always turn off the power to the fence before beginning any work and ensure that you have the necessary tools and equipment. If you are unsure about any aspect of the process, consult a professional or refer to detailed guides specific to your type of electric fence.
Additionally, when moving or removing an electric fence, it is essential to consider the layout of the new location. Take careful measurements and plan the spacing and number of wires needed for the new enclosure. Consider the purpose of the electric fence, whether it is to contain livestock, enclose a garden, or deter wild animals. Adjust the height and length of the fence accordingly, ensuring that it meets your specific requirements.
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Installing ground rods
Grounding rods may be made of copper or galvanized metal. Copper is the better conductor, but it can be more expensive. The first grounding rod must be driven into the soil within 20 feet of the fence energizer. It is important to note that the grounding rod system should not be connected to other utility grounding rods, such as those used in houses or barns. They should be placed at least 50 feet away from any utility ground rods, buried telephone lines, or metal water lines.
The length of the grounding rod depends on the energizer's joules of output. A good rule of thumb is to have 3 feet of ground rod per joule of output from the energizer. For example, if your energizer outputs 3 joules, you will need a 9-foot ground rod. If you are using multiple rods, they should be spaced 5 to 10 feet apart.
When installing the rods, it is recommended to pour water into the entry point to make it easier to pound them into the soil. A sledgehammer, T-post driver, or hammer drill can be used for this purpose. The rods should be driven as deep as possible, leaving only a few inches above the ground to clamp the wire.
For bare wire installations, use a stainless steel ground rod clamp to secure the insulated wire to the rod. Most battery and solar fence energizers come with a wiring harness for easy connections. You can also add a pinhole to the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket, fill it with water, and place it near the ground rod. This will increase the conductivity around the rod and boost the pulse strength.
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