Otis Singleton
The Wurlitzer electric piano was manufactured and marketed from 1954 to 1983, with the first model, the 100, announced in August 1954. The Wurlitzer is an electric piano that substitutes strings with struck quarter-inch (6.5 mm) steel reeds, allowing for a more compact design. The unique sound of the Wurlitzer is generated electromechanically by striking a metal reed with a felt hammer, inducing an electrical current in an electrostatic pickup system. While the process of opening a Wurlitzer electric piano may vary depending on the specific model, it generally involves unscrewing the lid and removing any cables or debris that may be causing it to stick.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| How to open a Wurlitzer electric piano | Unscrew the lid, but be careful as it is a vintage keyboard and sometimes the lid is sticky |
| Wurlitzer 700 | Remove the screws holding the fiberboard back in place (most have 12). Once the back is off, access the two screws holding the lid in place |
| Wurlitzer 140/140a/140b | Remove the screws from the top of the lid. Then, remove the two screws lower on the lid, next to each cheek block |
| Wurlitzer 720 | Remove the three topmost screws on the back of the keyboard |
| Wurlitzer 200/200a/206/206a/210/214 | Remove the screws holding the music rack in place. Then, remove the three screws below the keybed. Finally, remove the volume and vibrato knobs |
| Wurlitzer 112/120/140-series | Remove the exterior lid held on with latches. Remove the screws from the top of the lid (most have 9 or 11). The front of the lid is wedged behind the cheek blocks. The entire lid can be removed by lifting |
| Wurlitzer 112a | Same as Wurlitzer 112, but if the lid seems stuck, remove the front "music desk screws" so that the lid comes off in two pieces |
| Wurlitzer 120 | Same as Wurlitzer 112, but the front is wedged behind the cheek blocks |
| Recording a Wurlitzer electric piano | Direct into a preamp like a UA-610 or through an amp like a Twin Reverb. Use a microphone like EV 635a on amps, especially for keyboards |
| For mixing, EQ the lows down and add some 1k-3k. Use a Tube DI or Class 'A' DI, crank the vibrato, mic the speaker, or take it into a twin or a mesa combo, or a vibro champ, deluxe, or tremolux |
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What You'll Learn
Removing the lid: Unscrew and lift
Removing the lid of a Wurlitzer electric piano is a straightforward process, but it can be a little tricky due to the vintage nature of the instrument. The first step is to identify any strange DIY add-ons or hidden screws that may be holding the lid in place. Use a good light to examine the piano for any unusual screw placements or fasteners, especially if it is a 200-series Wurlitzer, as these models are more prone to having additional screws in unexpected places.
Once you have identified all the screws, the next step is to unscrew them. Most Wurlitzer models have screws holding the lid in place, and the number of screws can vary depending on the model. For example, the Wurlitzer 112/112a model typically has nine screws on the top of the lid, while the Wurlitzer 120 has eleven. The Wurlitzer 700 model has twelve screws holding the fiberboard back in place, and then two additional screws holding the lid in place.
After removing all the screws, you can lift the lid. In some cases, the lid may be stuck on a cable or debris, so be gentle when lifting to avoid any damage. If the lid seems stuck, you can try removing the front "music desk screws" so that the lid comes off in two pieces.
It is important to note that some Wurlitzer models have an exterior lid held in place with latches, which should be removed first. This exterior lid is called a fall cover and is found on the 112/120/140-series Wurlitzers.
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Examining for DIY add-ons
If you've removed all the screws but the lid still won't come off, it could be stuck on a cable or piece of debris, or someone might have added a screw or fastener in an unusual place. Examine the Wurlitzer for strange DIY add-ons with a good light before forcing the lid off.
For example, if you want to add an effects loop to a Wurlitzer EP-200 Electric Piano, you can use an existing hole in the front panel as an Insert Point for a stereo jack socket. If there is no hole, you will need to decide where to put the socket. You can then solder a bit of wire between the tip and ring switches, and connect a length of shielded 2-core wire to the three other pins.
The top tab on the volume pot is ground, so connect the shield wire to that tab. Leave the middle tab, which goes to the power amp. The bottom tab has a wire from the pre-amp, which you will need to unsolder and connect to the cable wire connected to the TIP.
The Wurlitzer works similarly to a guitar amp. The reeds produce a weak signal that goes to a pre-amplifier, and the signal is then sent to a power amp.
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Removing the screws from the top of the lid
For the Wurlitzer 112/112a, you will typically find nine screws on the top of the lid. Start by removing these screws. The front of the lid is wedged behind the cheek blocks, so you won't need to unscrew anything there. In some cases, you may need to remove the "music desk screws" at the front to separate the lid in two pieces if it seems stuck.
If you own a Wurlitzer 120, the process is similar. Most of these models have eleven screws on the top of the lid. Again, the front is wedged, so you don't need to worry about unscrewing anything there.
Now, for the Wurlitzer 140/140a/140b, you will need to remove the screws from the top of the lid, and then proceed to remove the two screws located lower on the lid, right next to each cheek block.
Finally, for the Wurlitzer 700, you'll need to first remove the screws holding the fiberboard back in place—most models have twelve of these screws. Once the back is off, you can then access and remove the two screws holding the lid in place.
Remember, Wurlitzers are vintage keyboards, so the lid may be a little sticky. Ensure you have thoroughly checked for any hidden screws before applying force to remove the lid.
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Removing screws holding the fiberboard back
Removing the screws that hold the fiberboard back of a Wurlitzer electric piano in place is a straightforward process, but it requires care and attention to detail. Here is a step-by-step guide:
First, it is important to identify the model of your Wurlitzer electric piano. Different models may have variations in the number and location of screws. The most common models are the Wurlitzer 112/120/140 series, which typically have nine to eleven screws on the top of the lid. However, other models may have different screw configurations.
Once you have identified the model and location of the screws, gather the necessary tools, which typically include a screwdriver and a good light source. Before attempting to remove any screws, examine the piano carefully for any strange DIY add-ons or hidden screws that may have been added over the years. This will help you avoid applying excessive force in the wrong areas.
Now, you can begin removing the screws. Start with the screws on the top of the lid, being careful not to strip the screws or damage the surrounding fiberboard. Most models will have screws that are easily accessible and removable. However, if you encounter any stubborn or stuck screws, you may need to apply some light force or use appropriate tools to loosen them without damaging the head or surrounding material.
As you remove each screw, keep track of their locations and consider marking or labelling them to facilitate easier reassembly. Place the screws in a safe location to avoid losing them. It is important to be gentle and patient during this process, as applying too much force can damage the screw heads or the fiberboard itself.
After removing all the screws holding the fiberboard back in place, you should be able to carefully lift and remove the back panel. Once the back is off, you will have access to the inner components of the piano, including the screws holding the lid in place. You can then proceed with further disassembly or adjustments as needed.
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Removing screws from the back of the keyboard
The first step to regulating your Wurlitzer is removing the lid, which is not difficult but requires care. All you need to do is unscrew the lid, but because the Wurlitzer is a vintage keyboard, the lid can sometimes be a little sticky. If you are not familiar with how they are put together, it can be hard to tell whether you need to apply light force to remove it, or whether there is some hidden screw that you are overlooking.
If you think you have removed every screw, but the lid still won't come off, there are a few possibilities. First, the lid could be stuck on a cable or another piece of debris. This is more common in 200-series Wurlitzers. Alternatively, someone over the years might have added a screw or fastener in an unusual place. Using a very good light, examine the Wurlitzer for strange DIY add-ons before you try to force the lid off.
Note that the exterior lid on 112/120/140-series Wurlitzers—the one held on with latches—is called a fall cover. Take that off first. Most have nine screws on the top of the lid. The front of the lid is simply wedged behind the cheek blocks. The entire lid can often be removed by lifting. If it seems stuck, you can remove the front “music desk screws” (as seen in the top image), so that the lid comes off in two pieces. The Wurlitzer 120 is similar, but most have eleven screws. As with the Wurlitzer 112, the front is wedged behind the cheek blocks.
Now that the lid is off, you can access the screws holding the keyboard in place. The number of screws varies depending on the model of Wurlitzer. For example, the Wurlitzer 700 has twelve screws holding the fiberboard back in place, while the Wurlitzer 320 has three screws on the back of the keyboard.
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Frequently asked questions
Opening a Wurlitzer electric piano involves unscrewing the lid. However, as Wurlitzer is a vintage keyboard, the lid may be sticky and hard to remove. If you think you've removed every screw, but the lid still won't come off, it could be stuck on a cable or debris.
First, remove the exterior fall cover, which is held on with latches. Then, remove the screws from the top of the lid. For the 112/112a, there are usually nine screws, and for the 120, there are usually eleven. The front of the lid is wedged behind the cheek blocks and can be removed by lifting. If it's stuck, remove the "music desk screws" so that the lid comes off in two pieces.
You can record a Wurlitzer electric piano in the same way you would record an electric guitar. You can record directly into a preamp or through an amp. Using a microphone on the amp tends to produce better sound than micing the onboard speakers. During mixing, EQ the lows down and add some 1k-3k for better cut-through.
