Otis Singleton
Piggybacking electric water heaters is a process that involves connecting two water heaters to the same power source, typically by using a junction box. While this may be possible if the circuit for the first water heater is oversized, it is important to prioritize safety over code requirements. Electric hot water heaters have built-in safety mechanisms, such as heat-activated breakers, to prevent accidents. It is crucial to understand these safety features and consult manufacturer instructions before attempting any modifications. Additionally, it is important to consider the capacity of the circuit and whether it can handle the load of two water heaters.
Piggybacking Electric Water Heaters
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Safety | Ensure you do not obstruct or restrict the pressure relief valve |
| Power | You may need to run a separate line from the circuit box to the second water heater on its own breaker |
| Circuit | Check the manufacturer's installation instructions to see if the circuit can handle the load |
| Hot Water Strategy | Electric hot water heaters have a heat-activated breaker on the thermostat module that cuts power to the heating elements if the setpoint is exceeded |
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What You'll Learn
Safety mechanisms and tripped breakers
One of the primary causes of a tripped breaker is a burnt-out heating element. Heating elements are responsible for heating the water inside the tank, and over time, they can deteriorate and fail, or become compromised, leading to an electrical imbalance that trips the breaker. If you notice a sudden lack of hot water, a significant decrease in water temperature, unusual sounds like popping or sizzling, or discoloured water, it could indicate a burnt-out heating element.
Another potential culprit is faulty thermostats. Thermostats regulate the water temperature, and if they malfunction, the water heater can overheat, leading to a circuit overload and tripped breaker. Inconsistent water temperatures or sporadic circuit breaker trips without a clear pattern may be signs of faulty thermostats.
Overloading the circuit can also be an issue. If your water heater shares a circuit with high-powered appliances like washing machines or air conditioners, it can lead to overloads. Redistributing the load or dedicating a separate circuit for the water heater can help.
Additionally, wiring problems, including faulty or damaged wiring, loose connections, corrosion, and failing components in the circuit breaker, can cause tripped breakers. Wiring issues can be challenging to diagnose without professional expertise. If your water heater is ageing or approaching the end of its lifespan (typically around ten years), it may be more cost-effective to replace it with a tankless alternative.
Finally, if you don't regularly flush your water heater, hard water minerals like calcium and magnesium can build up sediment, causing the unit to work harder and potentially tripping the breaker. Flushing your water heater or checking the anode rod, which helps prevent tank corrosion, can help address this issue.
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Pressure relief valves
There are two main types of pressure relief valves: pressure-only relief valves and temperature and pressure (TP or T&P) relief valves. Pressure-only relief valves are generally limited to tankless water heaters and other equipment with built-in overheat protection. TP relief valves are intended for conventional storage-type water heaters, indirect water heaters, and hot water storage tanks that require protection from both overheating and over-pressure.
The pressure relief valve is typically located on the top or side of the water heater tank. It includes a discharge tube that extends about six inches above the floor. When the pressure inside the tank exceeds the preset limit (usually 150 psi) or the temperature goes above 210 degrees Fahrenheit, the valve opens, and steam and hot water are forced out of the discharge tube, lowering the pressure back to safe levels. This process is known as "blowdown."
It is important to routinely test your pressure relief valve to ensure it is functioning properly. Testing the valve involves positioning a bucket under the discharge pipe and carefully pulling the valve open. If water comes out of the discharge tube, the valve is working correctly. Release the valve, and it should snap back into place, stopping the water flow. A faulty pressure relief valve may become stuck due to rust, corrosion, or mineral deposits.
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Circuit breakers and capacity
When installing an electric water heater, it is crucial to ensure that the circuit breaker is properly sized for the heater's wattage and voltage requirements. An incorrectly sized breaker can lead to safety issues and costly problems. Water heaters draw a significant amount of electricity, so they require a breaker size that can meet their demands.
A breaker that is too small will frequently trip, turning off the water heater even when it is functioning correctly. On the other hand, a breaker that is too large won't trip when necessary, potentially leading to electrical fires and other damage. Additionally, an undersized or oversized breaker will make the water heater less efficient, resulting in higher monthly energy costs.
Most residential water heaters require a 30-amp circuit breaker. However, if your water heater has a capacity of 90 gallons or more, you may need a larger breaker. The specific breaker size depends on the wattage and voltage ratings of the water heater. Water heaters typically operate at 240 volts, and their wattage refers to the electrical power they use.
To determine the correct breaker size, you can refer to the water heater's manual, which will specify the wiring and the number of breakers required. If the manual is unavailable, you can use the Power formula, P = I x V, to derive the formula for the specific amp breaker size: I = P ÷ V (where I = Amps, P = Watts, and V = Volts). It is recommended to consult a professional electrician for proper installation and to ensure compliance with electrical codes.
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Running power to each heater
To run power to each water heater, you will need to determine whether you can piggyback the power from an existing water heater or if you need to run a new line from the breaker box.
If you are connecting two water heaters, you will need to ensure that the circuit for the first water heater is not overloaded. Water heater breakers are typically sized for a single unit, so you will need to check if your circuit has double the capacity to handle two heaters. Refer to the manufacturer's installation instructions to determine the required circuit size.
If your circuit does not have sufficient capacity for two heaters, you will need to run a separate line from the breaker box to the second water heater. This will involve installing a new breaker and running a dedicated power line to the second heater.
It is important to consider the safety implications of piggybacking power to water heaters. Electric water heaters have built-in safety mechanisms, such as heat-activated breakers, to prevent overheating. Ensure that you do not exceed the setpoint temperature, typically around 190 to 200 degrees, to avoid tripping the breaker and cutting power to the heating elements.
Additionally, it is crucial to periodically check and maintain the pressure relief valve on your water heater to prevent potential safety hazards. This valve should never be obstructed or restricted, and it is recommended to replace it if it leaks or becomes faulty.
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Installation instructions
Before installing a new electric water heater, it is important to check if your home's voltage, wiring size, and circuit breaker are compatible with the water heater. Ensure that wire sizes, types, and connections comply with local codes. If there are no local codes, follow the National Electric Code (NEC).
Firstly, turn off the water and power to your old electric water heater. Remove the access panel to access the thermostat. Disconnect the wires and mark them with tape so you know where to attach them on the new unit. Drain the water lines by opening hot and cold taps in an upstairs faucet.
Next, remove the old water heater unit. If you have galvanized pipes, open unions near the unit. For rigid copper pipes, cut the pipe just below the shut-off valves. Move the new electric water heater into place, positioning it to make your connections easier. Check for plumb and level, and use a shim if necessary.
Now, connect the water lines. Common materials include galvanized steel pipe, rigid copper, or flexible water connectors. Attach the heat trap fittings to improve efficiency by preventing hot water from leaving the tank or cold water from entering when not in use. Wrap the threads with Teflon tape and tighten with a pipe wrench or adjustable pliers.
Finally, connect the electrical supply according to the manufacturer's instructions. Ensure the water heater is properly grounded by connecting the bare copper or ground wire to the ground screw. Replace the electrical access plate and restore power by turning the circuit breaker on. Adjust the thermostat to the recommended temperature of 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
Note: It is important to always refer to the manufacturer's instructions and ensure that your installation complies with local building codes.
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Frequently asked questions
No, water heater breakers are usually sized for a single unit. If you want to install a second water heater, you will need to run a new breaker for the second unit.
Electric hot water heaters have several safety mechanisms built in, such as a heat-activated breaker on the thermostat module. If the temperature exceeds the set point (around 190-200 degrees Fahrenheit), the breaker opens, cutting power to the heating elements.
To reset the breaker on the thermostat, remove the cover and push the small, round button firmly with a screwdriver until it clicks.
It is important to periodically check your pressure relief valve and replace it if it leaks or does not work when you try to open it. Additionally, never obstruct or restrict the pressure relief valve.
