Retrofitting Flash: Electrical Mast Protection Simplified

Retrofitting flash around an electrical mast is a fairly simple DIY project, but caution must be taken when working on a roof. Before starting, gather the necessary materials, including a flashing kit, sealant, roofing nails, and a flat pry bar. Begin by carefully separating the shingles around the old boot and removing any nails or shingles that may interfere with the installation. Cut the old boot away, ensuring not to damage the roofing. Fit the new boot around the pipe, securing it with nails and sealing it with the provided clips. Finally, re-adhere the shingles and seal any exposed nailheads.

Characteristics and Values Table for Retrofitting Flash Around Electrical Mast

Cost of retrofit flashing

The cost of retrofit flashing varies depending on the complexity of the project, the materials used, and the cost of living in the area.

For example, the cost of repairing cracked rubber boot flashing around an electrical entrance pipe can range from $20 for a temporary fix using a molded plastic boot and roof caulking, to $425 for a professional repair with a three-year warranty.

If you are installing a retrofit roof boot around an electrical mast, you can expect to pay around $70 for the flashing kit, plus an additional $10 to $15 for the sealant and roofing nails. This does not include the cost of any additional tools you may need, such as a pry bar or utility knife.

Some customers have also noted that the cost of retrofit flashing can be a bit more than expected, especially when compared to the prices of similar products at local big box stores. However, the durability and ease of installation of retrofit flashing can make it worth the cost.

It's important to remember that working with retrofit flashing can be dangerous, especially when working near power lines, so it's crucial to exercise extreme caution and only take on projects you're comfortable with.

Removing old flashing

Before retrofitting flash around an electrical mast, you must remove the old flashing. This process can be dangerous, so caution is advised. Always consult with your local electric utility company before attempting any work on or around an electrical mast.

First, use a flat pry bar to carefully separate the layers of shingles around the old boot, breaking them free from the thin adhesive that sticks them together. Work your way up, separating two to three layers above the old boot. Be careful not to use too much force, as the soft asphalt shingle may break.

Next, remove the shingle(s) covering the top of the boot. Do this by carefully working the pry bar towards each nail from underneath the shingle, slightly loosening it. Once loosened, insert the pry bar directly under the nailhead from above the shingle and carefully pry it out.

With the shingle(s) removed, you can now access the old boot. Pull up and remove the nails holding the old boot in place, then cut it away with a utility knife, being careful not to damage any roofing under or around it. Now that the old flashing has been removed, you can begin installing the new flashing kit.

Cutting and fitting new flashing

Before cutting and fitting new flashing, you must remove the old boot. Using a flat pry bar, carefully separate the layers of shingles around and about two to three layers above the old boot, breaking them free from the thin adhesive that sticks them together. Remove the shingle(s) covering the top of the boot by carefully working the pry bar toward each nail from underneath. Be careful not to use so much force that the nail head pops through the asphalt shingle. Once loosened, insert the pry bar directly under the nail head from above the shingle and carefully pry out. With the shingle(s) removed, the points where the old boot is fastened to the roof will be exposed. Now, use the pry bar to pull up and remove the nails holding the old boot in place, then cut it away with a utility knife, being careful not to damage any of the roofing under or around it.

Now, you can cut and fit the new flashing. Since the boot is designed to fit around multiple pipe and conduit diameters, you will need to cut it to fit your specific pipe size. Take your time and cut as cleanly as possible. Remember, this cut will be the final seam that seals between the boot and the pipe. Once cut to size, you can put the boot in place, fitting it around the pipe and mating the two sides of the front seam securely together. If your new boot is bigger than the old one, you may need to trim the shingles to fit the larger radius before replacing them. Just measure and re-cut the contour appropriate to your case, using a utility knife or utility snips. Again, be careful not to damage any roofing around you while cutting. Cut the shingles to fit around the new boot, if necessary.

With the boot in place, it's time to fasten it. Drive three roofing nails along the top, being sure to drive the nails where they will be covered by the shingle above the boot. Using lineman’s pliers, squeeze the metal clips that came with the kit over the seam down the front of the boot to permanently secure and seal it. If your boot is very close to the roof edge, you may need to trim the bottom edge to fit, which can be done with utility snips or cutters. Trim the bottom edge to fit, if necessary. With everything secured, fasten along the front edge of the boot with four roofing nails. Lastly, using roofing sealant, re-adhere any shingles previously pried apart and separated, making sure to also seal over the exposed nail heads.

Securing and sealing new flashing

When securing and sealing new flashing, caution must be exercised as the task involves working on a roof, which can be unsafe. Extreme caution is also required when working near power lines. Firstly, using a flat pry bar, carefully separate the layers of shingles around and above the old boot. Remove the shingles covering the top of the boot by working the pry bar towards each nail from underneath the shingle, slightly loosening it. Once loosened, insert the pry bar under the nailhead from above the shingle and carefully pry out. With the shingles removed, the points where the old boot is fastened to the roof will be exposed. Next, pull up and remove the nails holding the old boot in place, then cut it away with a utility knife, being careful not to damage the roofing under or around the boot. Cut the boot to fit around the pipe, then place it around the pipe and fit the two sides of the front seam together. Now, fasten the boot in place with three roofing nails along the top, ensuring that the nails will be covered by the shingle above the boot. If the new boot is bigger than the old one, you may need to trim the shingles to fit the larger radius before replacing them. Measure and cut the shingles to fit around the new boot, if necessary. Using lineman's pliers, squeeze the metal clips that came with the kit over the seam down the front of the boot to permanently secure and seal it. If the boot is very close to the roof edge, you may need to trim the bottom edge to fit using utility snips or cutters. With everything secured, fasten along the front edge of the boot with four roofing nails. Lastly, use roofing sealant to re-adhere the shingles, ensuring that the exposed nailheads are also sealed.

Safety precautions

Before retrofitting flash around an electrical mast, it is important to take several safety precautions. Working on a roof is inherently dangerous, and working near power lines adds additional risks. Therefore, it is crucial to exercise extreme caution and only take on this project if you are comfortable with the potential dangers.

Firstly, always consult with your utility company before starting any work near an electrical service mast. Utility companies have strict rules regarding repairs and will provide guidance on safe practices. It is important to remember that service drop conductors are directly connected to the utility's distribution grid and are energised at all times, creating a significant safety hazard. As such, repairs to the conductors themselves should be left to the power company.

Secondly, be cautious when working with tools and materials near power lines. Do not use excessive force when prying or cutting, as this could damage the roofing or, more dangerously, the electrical components. Take your time and work carefully to avoid accidents.

Additionally, only electric utility conductors are permitted to be attached to electrical service masts. Do not attach television, telephone, or cable wires to the mast, as this can pose a safety risk. Ensure that the overhead service drop conductors are clear of any trees, limbs, debris, or vegetation, as these can damage the conductors and attract lightning, leading to power outages.

Finally, when retrofitting a roofing boot, ensure that it is properly sealed, glued, and screwed flush with the roof membrane. If nails are used, they must be sealed properly to prevent corrosion and splitting of the membrane over time. This will help prevent leaks and ensure a secure fit for the flash.

By following these safety precautions, you can help ensure that your retrofit project is completed safely and effectively.

Frequently asked questions