Umair Gaines
Stripping direct burial electrical cable is a tricky task that requires careful execution to avoid damaging the cable. Direct burial cables are often used to supply power to outdoor structures like sheds, and they can be spliced and repaired if damaged. It is important to ensure that the cables are properly rated for direct burial and are buried at a minimum depth of 24 inches. When repairing direct burial cables, it is crucial to turn off the power and identify the affected power source before performing any splicing or repairs. This process often involves using a rustproof connector or a splice kit to ensure a secure connection. Additionally, direct burial splices should be made using a corrosion inhibitor and properly insulated, with accessible enclosures to facilitate future maintenance.
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What You'll Learn
Use a wire stripper or utility knife
Stripping direct burial electrical cable with a wire stripper or utility knife is a straightforward process, but it requires caution to avoid damaging the wire. Here is a detailed guide on how to do it:
Using a Wire Stripper:
To use a wire stripper effectively, it is essential to select the correct size of wire stripper with a notch that matches the wire gauge you are working with. Most wires have the gauge printed on the wire's insulation. Self-adjusting wire strippers are a great option as they can automatically adjust to the right gauge. Once you have the correct size, follow these steps:
- Place the plastic-sheathed cable in the notch, aligning it with the wire gauge.
- Squeeze the handles together to cut the sheathing.
- Slide off the sheathing to expose the insulated wires.
- Strip the individual wires as needed.
Using a Utility Knife:
Using a utility knife to strip electrical cable requires a steady hand and concentration to control the depth of the cut and avoid damaging the electrical wires. Here are the steps:
- Place the wire on a flat, sturdy work surface.
- Hold the utility knife against the end of the wire without cutting, resting it on the exact spot you want to cut.
- Roll the wire under the blade to score the insulation, cutting into it without applying too much pressure.
- Bend the cable at the scored line to break the plastic covering.
- Inspect the insulation on the wires to ensure the blade hasn't nicked them. If there are slices, cut off the damaged section and start over.
- Repeat the process on the other side, bending the cable in the opposite direction to tear it and slide off the plastic covering.
Tips for Using a Utility Knife:
- A utility knife is particularly useful for stripping sheathing from cords and plastic-sheathed Romex cables.
- Always use a sharp blade and concentrate on controlling the depth of the cut.
- For UF (underground feeder) cables, use the knife to peel the plastic sheathing from the wires, sliding your thumb along the underside of the wire while pulling the knife along the top to remove the plastic.
- If the insulation is brittle or damaged, try warming it with a hair dryer to soften it before using the knife.
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Turn off the power at the circuit panel
Before you begin stripping direct burial electrical cable, it is imperative to prioritise your safety by turning off the power at the circuit panel. This is a crucial step to prevent any electrical accidents or mishaps during the stripping process. Here is a comprehensive guide to help you through the process:
Locate Your Home's Electrical Service Panel:
The first step is to find your home's electrical service panel, also known as the circuit breaker panel or fuse box. Typically, this is a large grey metal box attached to one of the walls in or around your home. In older homes, the fuse box may be a smaller white box mounted horizontally on an exterior wall. The service panel is usually located in out-of-the-way rooms or areas.
Check the Floor and Open the Panel:
Before opening the door to the electrical service panel, ensure that the floor around it is dry to avoid any electrical hazards. Once you've confirmed the floor is dry, proceed to open the panel door.
Examine the Circuit Breakers:
When you open the panel, you will typically see two columns of switches, which are the circuit breakers. These breakers control the flow of electricity to different areas of your home. The individual circuit breakers will be labelled with amperage ratings, usually 15 or 20 amps, which are the standard levels for household circuits.
Turn Off Power to Specific Circuits or the Entire House:
If you are working on a specific area or project, such as replacing a switch or upgrading an outlet, you only need to turn off the power to the individual circuit in that area. Flip the corresponding circuit breaker switch to the "OFF" position. However, if you are performing major rewiring or renovation projects, you may need to turn off power to the entire house by flipping the main breaker switch, which is usually larger and located above or below the columns of circuit breakers.
Test the Power:
Before beginning any work, it is crucial to ensure that the power is indeed off. Test several outlets with a non-contact electrical tester to confirm that the electricity has been shut off. Additionally, make sure all the lights in your home are off.
Remember, turning off the power at the circuit panel is a critical safety measure. Always exercise caution and follow proper procedures to protect yourself and your property during any electrical work.
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Dig 12 inches on each side of the break
Before you begin to dig, make sure you turn off the power to the electrical device fed by the broken cable at the circuit panel. This is an important safety step. Once this is done, you can start to dig 12 inches on each side of the break in the wire. Work gently and carefully towards the cable, which you will find anywhere between 12 and 24 inches deep.
When you reach the cable, use a non-contact voltage detector to check that there is no power running through it. This is an essential step to ensure your safety. If the voltage detector indicates that there is still power running through the cable, do not proceed any further. It may be that you have an underground line and are unsure where the break is. In this case, it is important to hire an electrician who can locate and mark the underground cable, and pinpoint the problem.
If you have located the cable and confirmed that there is no power running through it, you can proceed to the next steps. Cut the cable about 12 inches on either side of the break. Then, strip back the sheathing by 2 inches and the wire insulation by 5/8 of an inch. You will need two special underground splice kits to connect the new cable section.
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Use low-voltage connectors for direct burial
If you're working with low-voltage cables, there are a few things to keep in mind when it comes to direct burial and using connectors.
Firstly, understand the voltage requirements. Low-voltage wires (12-24V) must not share the same conduit as 120/240V circuits. They can, however, share a trench as long as each circuit is in a separate conduit. For low-voltage wires carrying less than 30V, the minimum burial depth is 6 inches. This includes landscape, pool, spa, and fountain lighting.
Now, for the connectors:
- Use low-voltage connectors designed for direct burial. These connectors have a gel-based design that encapsulates the splice, creating a waterproof seal to prevent water intrusion and corrosion.
- For low-voltage stranded cable, typically found in lighting applications, opt for the wire nut/gel-filled tube style connector. Twist on the wire nut, then push the connector into the tube until you see gel oozing out from the top. Finally, snap the lid shut.
- For solid irrigation and telephone wire, use an insulation-piercing gel-filled connector. Simply insert the wires into the connector and snap it closed.
- When using connectors and splices with direct burial cable, always use waterproof junction boxes or enclosures. This is crucial for protecting the connections from moisture and corrosion.
Remember, if you accidentally cut or damage a low-voltage underground cable, you can repair it using an underground splice kit. These kits provide a rustproof connector to join the cut ends, allowing for a quick and secure repair.
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Use a concrete box to make the splice accessible
When splicing direct burial electrical cables, it is important to make the splice accessible. One way to do this is by using a concrete box, also known as a splice box or handhole enclosure.
A concrete box provides a durable and accessible housing for the splice, allowing for future maintenance or repairs if needed. It is important to select a box that is properly rated for the voltage of the electrical cable and to ensure it meets local electrical codes and requirements. For example, handhole enclosures for conductors operating at 1000 volts or below should be sized according to 314.28(A) and those for conductors operating at over 1000 volts should follow 314.71.
To use a concrete box for your splice, first properly prepare the splice according to local regulations and best practices. This may include using a corrosion inhibitor, properly insulating the splice, and ensuring moisture-proofing. Once the splice is complete and all necessary precautions have been taken, the concrete box can be placed over the splice.
Concrete boxes typically have a removable cover or lid, which allows for easy access to the splice when needed. It is important to ensure that the box is properly labelled, particularly if it is in a traffic area, to prevent accidental damage. Additionally, the concrete box should be placed at the appropriate depth to accommodate the burial depth of the cable, which is typically a minimum of 24 inches.
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Frequently asked questions
Direct burial electrical cable, also known as underground feed (UF) cable, is a type of cable that can be buried underground to provide power to another structure, such as a shed.
You will need basic electrician's pouch hand tools, a voltage tester, trenching hand tools, a utility knife, and pliers.
First, cut about 2 inches along the concave centre of the cable with a utility knife. Then, use pliers to pull out the bare ground wire in the centre. Pull the wire like a rip cord to split the jacket. Next, score the jacket inside the grooves left by the ground wire. Finally, pull out the conductors and cut off the portion of the jacket you no longer need.
Before performing any wire splicing or cable repairs, identify the affected power source and turn it off. Tag the power source with a note to indicate that it should remain off until repairs are complete.
You should use moisture-proof or water-resistant materials, including properly sized wire connectors, anti-corrosion ointment, electrical tape, shrink tubing, or other approved splice method materials. The splices must be made using a corrosion inhibitor and then well insulated.
