Wiktor Wise
Electric fences are used to keep livestock protected from predators, but they can malfunction, leading to escapes. To prevent this, regular testing is necessary. While some people use their hands or a blade of grass to test for a current, this is not recommended due to safety concerns and the potential for inaccurate results. Instead, a voltmeter is a reliable and safe tool for testing electric fences. A non-contact voltmeter can be used to detect the presence of voltage without touching the fence, while an electric fence voltmeter provides specific voltage readings. These tools are affordable and easy to use, making them a worthwhile investment for anyone with an electric fence.
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What You'll Learn
Using a voltmeter
To use a non-contact voltmeter, stand within 5 feet of the electric fence and point the blinking tip of the voltmeter toward the fence. The voltmeter may begin to glow with a steady red light and beep, indicating a charge. If not, slowly move closer to the fence. If the voltmeter still doesn't light up or beep, the wire likely lacks a charge. Non-contact voltmeters do not provide information about the amount of voltage, they only reveal if there is or isn't any voltage in the fence.
If you want specific voltage readings, use an electric fence voltmeter. Most models include a handheld meter with a digital readout and a metal prong on the top, and an attached metal probe at the end of a wire. Start by standing near the part of the fence farthest from the fence charger. Identify the ground wires of the fence by checking the fence manual. Hold the plastic part of the voltmeter’s probe, and use the metal tip to touch the ground wire. If there is no ground wire, touch the metal tip of the probe into the soil near the fence. Keep the metal tip of the probe to the ground wire or the ground. At the same time, hold the metal prong on the end of the voltmeter to a charged wire. The digital screen on the voltmeter will display the voltage. Compare the voltage reading to your fence manual, which will tell you what the fence’s voltage should be (most electric fences have a voltage of 2,000 to 10,000 volts).
Repeat the test every 100 feet closer to the charger to find weak spots. If the reading is above or below the recommended range for your fence, there is a problem and it should be serviced. Even if the voltage reading is good, repeating the test in other locations will confirm the result.
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Vegetation touching the fence
If you are unable to clear the vegetation yourself, it is recommended that you contact a fencing professional or an electrician to assist you. They can help identify any potential hazards and ensure that the fence is functioning properly.
To test for voltage leaks caused by vegetation, you can use a voltmeter. Stand near the part of the fence farthest from the charger and identify the ground wires by referring to the fence manual. If there is no ground wire, stick the metal end of the probe several inches into the soil. Then, follow the manufacturer's instructions for using the voltmeter to test for voltage.
Non-contact voltmeters are another option for testing an electric fence. They are easy to use and do not require touching the fence wires. Stand within 5 feet of the fence and point the voltmeter towards it. If the voltmeter does not light up or beep, slowly move closer to the fence. If there is no response even when you are a few inches from the fence wire, there is likely no charge.
It is important to test your electric fence regularly to ensure it is functioning properly and to address any issues, such as vegetation touching the fence, promptly.
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Faulty power source
A faulty power source is one of the main reasons an electric fence may not be working. Electric fences need a power source to function, so a power outage on your property can prevent your electric fence from working. If your fence has completely depowered, your battery or power source may be at fault. A simple test is to plug in another electrical device (such as a light) into the outlet and check if that works. If that item doesn’t power up properly, consult an electrician. The outlet should be delivering between 105 to 125 volts to the charger.
If your fence is clicking but not shocking, it may be due to a problem with the power source, such as a faulty energizer or a low battery. The energizer is responsible for converting low-voltage electricity from a power source (batteries or mains) into high-voltage pulses. If the energizer is faulty, it may not be outputting energy. To test this, turn off the power to the energizer, disconnect both hook-up wires from the charger, and then turn the power back on. If the voltage output is under 2,000 volts, there is a fault in the energizer.
The terminals are the posts used to attach the hook-up wires to the energizer. Testing these posts can help determine if the energizer is properly outputting energy. If your fence has 2 or more wires, one of them is probably a ground wire. Use your owner's manual to identify it. If you're not sure, or if there is no ground wire on your type of fence, skip this step and move on to the step that describes sticking the probe into the ground. Stick the meter's probe into the soil if there isn't a ground wire. If your fence model doesn't use a ground wire, just stick the metal end of the probe several inches/centimetres deep into the soil.
If the power source is not the issue, there are other potential problems with your electric fence. For example, vegetation touching the fence can drain voltage, so it is essential to keep up with trimming along the fence. Damaged insulators can also cause voltage leaks, as they are important for containing the voltage in the wires.
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Ground faults
Grounding problems are the cause of most electric fence faults. An electric fence is an electrical circuit. The electrical current travels from the charger, down the fence line, through the animal, along the earth to the ground system, and back to the charger. If the ground system is inadequate, the electrical current is reduced, and the animal receives a weaker shock.
To test your ground system, follow these steps:
- Short circuit the fence by laying several steel rods (or lengths of pipe) against the fence at least 330' (100 m) away from the charger. In dry or sandy soils, drive the rods up to 12" (30 cm) into the earth.
- Use a digital voltmeter to measure the fence voltage. It should read 2 kV or less. If not, add more ground rods.
- Check the ground system by inserting the voltmeter's ground probe into the earth at the full extent of the lead. The voltmeter reading should be no more than 0.3 kV. If the reading is higher, your ground system is insufficient, and you should add more ground rods or find a better location.
To avoid interference, the ground system should be at least 33' (10 m) away from electric or telephone ground systems. No part of the energizer ground system should come into contact with any buildings.
Additionally, you can check for voltage leaks by walking the fence lines with a portable radio tuned off the station and on high volume. If you hear an audible "click," it indicates a fault.
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Indicator lights
Electric fence indicator lights are small devices that can be attached to your electric fence at regular intervals. These indicator lights illuminate when the fence is working properly. This means that if the light is on, the fence is on.
When installing a new electric fence, indicator lights can be added to the base cost. If you have had your fence for a while, it is recommended to test it using another method before installing indicator lights, which can help you test the electric fence in the future.
To test an electric fence with indicator lights, simply walk along the fence and observe whether the lights are on or off. If you notice that some sections of the fence have lights on and others do not, you can follow up with an electric fence voltmeter to check the voltage in each section.
Non-contact voltmeters can also be used to test electric fences. These tools do not require you to touch the fence wires and can detect the presence or absence of voltage. They typically have a blinking translucent tip that remains lit when voltage is detected and may also beep. When using a non-contact voltmeter, stand within 3 to 5 feet of the fence and point the blinking tip towards it. If the voltmeter does not light up or beep, slowly move closer to the fence. If it still does not indicate voltage, the wire likely lacks a charge.
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Frequently asked questions
You can test an electric fence with a voltmeter, a compass, or a blade of grass. You can also use your ears to listen for the sound of a working electric fence.
Stand within 5 feet of the electric fence and point the voltmeter at it. If the voltmeter starts beeping and has a steady light at the tip, the fence is electrified. If not, move steadily closer to the fence, but do not make contact with it.
Hold the compass a few inches from each electric fence wire, taking care not to bump into the fence. Hold the compass for about 30 seconds. If the fence is electrified, the compass arrow will vibrate.
Hold a blade of grass against the fence. If the fence is electrified, the grass will tick in your fingers.
Always treat an electric fence as if it is electrified. Prioritize your safety and take the necessary precautions when dealing with electrical components. Disconnect the power source to the electric fence before starting any troubleshooting procedures to eliminate the risk of electric shock.
