Wiktor Wise
Electric cooling fans are a popular choice for keeping engines cool, especially in traffic or at stop lights. When installing an electric fan, it is important to consider the size of the fuse to be used. The size of the fuse will depend on the fan's power draw, which can vary from 5 to 20 amps for a single 10-inch fan. For dual cooling fans, if each fan draws 20 amps, a 40-amp slow-blow fuse is recommended. It is important to ensure that the fuse size does not exceed the current-carrying capacity of the wire, as this can lead to blown fuses or other issues.
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What You'll Learn
A fuse link instead of a fuse
When installing an electric fan, it is important to consider the size of the fuse to ensure the circuit is protected. While a fuse is designed to handle a lower current (amp) load than the rest of the system, a fusible link is designed to handle a lot more AMPs. Fusible links are also cheaper and easier to install than a dedicated fuse block, which is why they are often used in OE applications.
A fusible link, or fuse link, is a type of fuse that is designed to protect electrical circuits from overload or short circuits. It is a small, thin piece of wire that is typically made of a conductive material such as copper or aluminium. The wire is enclosed in a transparent or translucent plastic housing, which allows for easy inspection of the wire.
In the event of an overload or short circuit, the high current flowing through the fusible link will cause the wire to melt or vaporize, opening the circuit and interrupting the current flow. This can prevent damage to other components in the circuit. Fusible links are commonly used in automotive applications, where they are often used in place of traditional fuses to protect electrical systems from overload or short circuits.
When installing an electric cooling fan, it is important to consider the size of the fuse or fusible link that is required. For smaller fans, a single relay can be used, and a proper fuse should be installed to protect the circuit while providing enough current to flow without exceeding the fuse rating. If the fuse does blow, it indicates that there is too much draw on the system and a second relay should be added. In this case, a 30-amp fuse is recommended for each relay connection to the battery.
However, in some cases, a fusible link may be a better option than a traditional fuse. For example, the SN95 fan can pull a lot of amps, which can cause a fuse to blow instantly. In this case, a fuse link can handle a lot more AMPs and is recommended for use between the battery and the relay. Additionally, the Mark VIII fan can spike upwards of 120 amps on startup, which may not be an issue as it only lasts for a millisecond or two. However, in this case, a 75-amp relay is recommended, triggered by a switch instead of direct power.
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Relay wiring
A cooling fan relay controls when the electric radiator cooling fan turns on and off. It does so based on temperature information from your car's electronic control module or a thermostatically controlled sensor.
If you buy a relay kit, it should contain all the necessary connectors to splice wires together. It is recommended to use a good crimp connector and follow the instructions provided for a smooth installation. The wire insulation colours may vary depending on your electric fan relay kit supplier.
When installing the relay, ensure it is safe from excessive heat and water. Exposure to these elements can affect the functionality of your cooling system.
For dual cooling fans, there are two methods for wiring the relay kit. This depends on the fan size and the current draw. Larger fans that draw more than 15 amps each require a second relay kit. Smaller fans can be connected to a single relay, and a proper fuse should be installed to protect the circuit and provide enough current without exceeding the fuse rating. If the fuse blows, it indicates that there is too much draw on the system, and a second relay is needed.
The orange wire on the relay should see a 12-volt signal when the ignition switch is on. The yellow wire connects to the battery, and a supplied fuse should be mounted within 12 inches of the battery. The red wire from the relay connects to the cooling fan, and the black wire from the fan connects to the relay.
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Dual cooling fans
When it comes to electric cooling fans, there are a variety of options available, including dual cooling fans. These dual fans can be an effective way to keep engines cool, especially in traffic or at stop lights. They operate independently of engine rpm, drawing the maximum cfm at idle.
There are two methods for wiring up the relay kit for dual cooling fans. This depends on the draw of the fans. If the fans are larger and draw more than 15 amps each, a second relay kit is recommended. In this case, each relay connection to the battery should have a 30-amp fuse. For smaller fans, both fans can be connected to a single relay, with a proper fuse installed to protect the circuit and provide enough current without exceeding the fuse rating.
It is important to note that the original alternator may not be designed to handle current draws over 45-60 amps when adding electrical components like dual cooling fans. As such, consideration should be given to increasing the output of the charging system with a more powerful alternator.
When installing an electric fan, it is crucial to follow proper wiring procedures. This includes finding a suitable location for the relay, away from excessive heat and water exposure. Additionally, the fuse should be mounted within 12 inches of the battery. For a remote battery, it can be connected to a power port in the engine compartment but should always be fused.
There are a variety of dual cooling fans available on the market, with different diameters, CFM ranges, and voltage requirements. It is important to choose the appropriate fan for your specific vehicle and application to ensure effective cooling and compatibility with your electrical system.
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Electric vs. mechanical fans
When it comes to choosing between electric and mechanical fans for engine cooling, there are several factors to consider. Electric fans are powered by the vehicle's electrical system and offer several advantages over mechanical fans. Firstly, they provide more efficient cooling by drawing the maximum CFM at idle, as they operate independently of engine RPM. This means they can keep the engine cooler in traffic and at stoplights, whereas mechanical fans cool based on engine speed. Electric fans also offer improved flexibility, as they can be turned on only when needed, reducing the electric load. Additionally, they are available in multiple sizes and configurations, allowing for a better fit in tight spaces.
However, one disadvantage of electric fans is the potential for a significant draw on the electrical system, which can lead to parasitic power loss. This occurs because the engine has to give up power to the generator, which powers the fan motor. This conversion from mechanical to electrical energy is less efficient than directly driving a mechanical fan via a belt. Additionally, the failure of multiple components, such as the generator, fan motor, cabling, connectors, or relay, can cause the cooling system to fail in electric fans.
On the other hand, mechanical fans have their own set of advantages and disadvantages. One benefit is their simplicity and reliability, as they have fewer components that can fail. Mechanical fans bolted onto the water pump will only fail if the water pump itself fails. They also do not cause parasitic power loss, as there is no conversion of energy from mechanical to electrical. However, mechanical fans can increase the load on the water pump and belts, and they may not offer the same level of cooling flexibility as electric fans.
In terms of fuse size for electric cooling fans, it depends on the specific fan and its power draw. Some sources recommend a 30-amp fuse for each relay connection to the battery. However, it's important to consider the startup spike in current draw, which can be upwards of 120 amps for certain fans. In such cases, a fuse link or a higher-amperage fuse may be necessary to prevent the fuse from blowing instantly.
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Wire size and current draw
When wiring electric cooling fans, it is important to consider the wire gauge size and current draw to ensure optimal electrical performance and prevent potential issues. The wire gauge size and current draw depend on several factors, including the size and type of the fan, the length of the wire, and the voltage of the system.
For smaller fans, a single relay can be used, while larger fans that draw more than 15 amps each may require a second relay kit. It is recommended to install a proper fuse to protect the circuit and provide enough current flow without exceeding the fuse rating. A blown fuse indicates that there is too much draw on the system, and a second relay should be added. A 30-amp fuse is commonly recommended for each relay connection to the battery.
The wire gauge size should be chosen based on the current draw and length of the wire run. It is recommended to use a wire size calculator to determine the appropriate wire gauge, as charts and rules of thumb may not take into account all relevant factors. However, as a general guideline, for a 30-amp circuit, a 10-gauge wire is commonly used, while a 12-gauge wire may also be sufficient. It is recommended to go no smaller than a 10-gauge wire for electric cooling fans due to their high current draw.
Electric cooling fans typically experience a startup spike in current draw. For example, the Mark VIII fan spikes upwards of 120 amps on startup, although this only lasts for a millisecond or two. Therefore, it is important to consider the startup current draw when selecting the wire gauge size and fuse rating. A fuselink is recommended by some instead of a fuse because it can handle more amps and does not blow instantly, accommodating the startup spike in current draw.
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Frequently asked questions
The size of the fuse will depend on the startup and constant amperage draw of your fan. If your fan draws 40 Amps, for example, you should fuse it at 50 Amps with a slow-blow fuse.
A slow-blow fuse is a type of fuse that doesn't blow instantly like a standard fuse. This means that it won't blow when the fan spikes on startup.
If your fans draw a total of 20 Amps, fuse them at 25 with a slow-blow fuse. If each fan draws 20 Amps, fuse them at 40 Amps with a slow-blow fuse.
