Molly Ayala
Electric clutches in the Dixon ZTR lawn mower require periodic adjustments to extend their life. This includes Air Gap adjustments and Ohms tests to check for faulty coils. The process can be complicated, and specific tools are required, such as wrenches, a Dixon special tool, or a pocket square. The steering system and transaxle system also need to be adjusted for optimal output. Additionally, the belt tension on the Dixon ZTR 4516 model may need adjustment, although the upper deck drive belt is self-tensioning.
Characteristics and Values
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Electric clutches | Require periodic Air Gap adjustments for extended life |
| Air Gap adjustment | Should not be so tight that the feeler gauge cannot be reinserted after removal |
| Ohms test | Used to check for a faulty coil within the clutch |
| Replacement parts | Not available to repair a faulty assembly; the entire clutch must be replaced |
| Tools | Specific-sized wrench tools, Dixon special tool or pocket square |
| Adjustment | Steering system, transaxle system, belt tension |
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What You'll Learn
Air Gap adjustments
Electric clutches require periodic Air Gap adjustments to extend their life. Here is an Air Gap adjustment procedure for the Dixon ZTR electric clutch:
First, you will need some specific tools to adjust the clutch. These include certain sized wrench tools, a Dixon special tool or pocket square, and a feeler gauge. It is important that the clutch is not so tight that the feeler gauge cannot be reinserted after removal.
Second, use the Dixon special tool or pocket square and connect it with the front or back discup. Square the discup so that it rests perpendicular to the back frame and measure with the tool.
Third, loosen the adjustment bolts so that the gap between the cups and cones is 0.20 to 0.25 from both sides of the assembly. This is the new neutral gap.
Fourth, create a gap of dive threads between the bottom rod lock and the lower spring nut. Rotate the upper spring nut to create an even distance between the upper and lower cones, which will set the rod lock to neutral.
Fifth, adjust the steering system so that the levers are even. Ensure the engine is off, and if there is any sound from the cups abrading the cones, adjust the neutral spring nuts to eliminate this. Tighten all the nuts to hold the adjustments.
Finally, turn on the machine and drive in a straight line on a flat area to test the adjustments.
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Ohms test for a faulty coil
An electric clutch requires periodic Air Gap adjustments to extend its life. One way to check for a faulty coil within the clutch is to perform an Ohms test. This test can be done using an ohmmeter, which measures electrical resistance.
Step 1: Understand the Ignition Coil's Function
The ignition coil is a vital component of any vehicle's ignition system. It is responsible for providing electricity to the spark plugs. When a vehicle won't start, misses often, or stalls frequently, the ignition coil may be faulty and require replacement.
Step 2: Find the Resistance Specifications
Every ignition coil has unique electrical resistance specifications. These specifications can usually be found in the vehicle's service manual or by contacting the dealership. The primary winding typically has a resistance of about 0.7-1.7 ohms, while the secondary winding has a resistance of 7,500-10,500 ohms.
Step 3: Prepare the Ohmmeter
Turn on the ohmmeter. If the ignition coil has external (jutting out) or internal (sunken in) contacts, it won't affect the test. Touch one lead of the ohmmeter to each of the outer electrical contacts.
Step 4: Test the Primary Coil
Record the resistance reading, which represents the resistance of the primary winding. For newer ignition coil models with different contact configurations, refer to the vehicle's manual to identify the primary winding contacts.
Step 5: Test the Secondary Coil
Position the ohmmeter leads on the poles of the secondary coil. Keep one lead on an outer contact and touch the other to the central, inner contact where the main wire to the distributor connects. Record the resistance reading for the secondary winding.
Step 6: Interpret the Results
Compare the recorded resistance readings with the vehicle's specifications. If the readings fall outside the specified range, the ignition coil is damaged and requires replacement.
Other Testing Methods:
If you don't have access to an ohmmeter, there are alternative methods to test for a faulty coil:
- Swap Test: If your vehicle has multiple ignition coils, swap a suspected faulty coil with a known functional one. If the problem moves to a new location, the swapped coil is defective.
- Visual Inspection: Ignition coils usually fail by arcing through their body, leaving white powdery marks where the arcing occurs.
- Spark Test: Disconnect and test each coil for spark production. Faulty coils may produce a weaker spark or no spark at all.
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Adjusting the cone drive
To adjust the cone drive, you will need a few specific-sized wrench tools, including an eleven-sixteenth open-end wrench, a one-half inch open- or box-end wrench, and the Dixon special tool or a pocket square.
First, loosen the nut on the back of the cone drive with an adjustable wrench. Then, turn the adjusting screw clockwise to tighten the belt or counterclockwise to loosen it. Finally, retighten the nut on the back of the cone drive.
If you need to adjust the tension on the drive belt, follow these steps:
- Loosen the locking nuts on the Allen head pivot at the rear of the transmission with the eleven-sixteenth wrench.
- Find the one-half-inch wrench and loosen the outside locking nuts on the torque rod.
- Turn the torque rod nut twice for every turn of the pivot bolt. As you turn these nuts, you should see the discup moving toward the cone.
- Continue loosening the bolts until the cones and discup make contact.
- Use the Dixon special tool or a pocket square to connect to the front or back of the discup.
- Square the discup so that it rests perpendicular to the back frame.
- Measure the angle with the tool.
- Loosen the adjustment bolts, creating a gap of 0.20 to 0.25 from both sides of the assembly.
- Rotate the upper spring nut to even the distance between the upper and lower cones.
- Adjust the steering system so that the levers are even.
Remember to work slowly and adjust the drive gradually to avoid damaging the unit.
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Steering system adjustments
The Dixon ZTR Cone Drive is a cone-shaped device that helps adjust the tension on the drive belt. It is located at the front of the engine, behind the pulley. The cones are located in the centre of the mower deck and rotate to power the cutting blades. The cone drive system is adjustable, allowing you to change the blade speed and direction. The height of the cutting deck can also be adjusted, controlling how high or low the blades cut the grass.
To adjust the tension on the drive belt, follow these steps:
- Loosen the nut on the back of the cone drive with an adjustable wrench.
- Turn the adjusting screw clockwise to tighten the belt or counterclockwise to loosen it.
- Retighten the nut on the back of the cone drive.
To raise or lower the cutting deck:
- Loosen the two adjustment knobs on the sides of the deck.
- Raise or lower the deck to your desired height.
- Retighten the knobs.
If you are experiencing steering problems, first check if the front wheels are properly aligned. If they are not, adjust them. Next, check the steering linkage for any damage or wear and tear. If it is damaged, it will need to be replaced. Finally, check the steering cable for any fraying or kinking, and replace it if necessary.
To adjust the steering system:
- Move the steering forward and backward to your comfort level.
- Reassemble and double the pump, halve the motor, and find a balance between them.
- Adjust the steering system so that the levers are even.
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Transaxle system adjustments
Before beginning any maintenance work on the Dixon Z-Drive system, it is important to have the right tools on hand. This includes combination wrenches, a socket with an extension, a shop hammer, a mechanic's punch, a ratchet drive, needle-nose pliers, and a spring hook.
To begin the adjustment process, the Z-Drive needs to be placed back into the mower. Slide the Z-Drive into the chassis and attach the drive chains to the transaxle. Secure the system with the included bolts, using a socket, socket extension attachment, and a ratchet to tighten them. If the belt tensioner spring is loose, be sure to tighten it.
With the system in place, reconnect the double ball joints to the Z-Drive. Reinstall the brake shaft and roll pins, and then install the brake shaft linkage. This completes the transaxle installation or reinstallation process.
Running adjustments, such as setting "true neutral," require the system to be installed and functioning. These adjustments are easy to perform and require fewer tools than installation. For example, if the mower pulls to the left or right, rotate the levers into the drive position and raise the seat to access the transaxle. Loosen the nuts on the rubber spring assembly and turn the jam nuts to speed up or slow down each side as needed. Check and adjust neutral as necessary, ensuring that the control levers rotate freely. Drive the mower and continue these steps until it drives in a straight line at mowing speed.
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Frequently asked questions
Electric clutches require periodic Air Gap adjustments for extended life. You will need to perform an Air Gap adjustment and an Ohms test to check for a faulty coil within the clutch. No replacement parts are available to repair a faulty assembly, so you will need to replace the entire clutch.
The upper deck drive belt is self-tensioning and has a tension spring that applies pressure. If the belt is coming off the pulleys, you may have a worn-out spring, belt, or pulley.
You will need specific-sized wrench tools and a Dixon special tool or pocket square. First, connect the tool with the front or back discup and square the discup so it rests perpendicular to the back frame. Next, loosen the adjustment bolts so the gap between cups and cones is 0.20 to 0.25 from both sides of the assembly.
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