Beatrice Lang
Building your own electric cello can be a fun and educational project, but it requires careful planning and a range of skills and tools. The process typically involves designing the cello, selecting appropriate materials, and assembling the various components. The cost of building an electric cello can vary depending on the quality of materials and tools used, with some people opting for salvaged wood and cheaper parts, while others invest in higher-quality components. It's important to consider the precise measurements and angles of the various parts, such as the fingerboard, nut, bridge, and headstock, to ensure the instrument is playable and sounds good. Online resources, such as templates and step-by-step guides, can provide valuable guidance for those interested in crafting their own electric cello.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Complexity | Depends on the builder's woodworking skills, tools, and design choices |
| Cost | Minimum: around €300/ $50 for very cheap parts; recommended to spend more |
| Body | Solid, hollow, or semi-hollow |
| Strings | Magnetic or non-magnetic; non-magnetic strings require a piezo "pickup" |
| Sound | Plugged into a bass amplifier, it will sound better than when unplugged, which can be tinny |
| Design | Various templates and designs available online; the headstock design can be decorative |
| Materials | Wood, metal, and string; specific types of wood and metal are a matter of builder preference |
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What You'll Learn
Sourcing materials and budgeting
Building your own electric cello is a fun and educational project. However, it is important to source the right materials and create a budget to ensure the process is cost-effective. Here are some key considerations for sourcing materials and budgeting:
Wood Selection:
The type of wood chosen for the cello's body, neck, and fingerboard is crucial. Different types of wood have varying prices and characteristics, affecting the overall cost and aesthetic of the instrument. Common choices include solid wood, salvaged wood, or specific types like sapele, ash, and oak.
Essential Components:
In addition to the wood, several other components are necessary to build an electric cello. These include fine tuners, strings, tail gut, geared bass tuners, nut, saddle, bridge, and endpin. The cost of these components can vary, but it's essential to opt for quality parts to ensure the instrument's functionality and longevity.
Piezo Pickup and Preamp:
A piezo pickup and preamp are essential for capturing the sound of the cello. These can be purchased online for a relatively low price of around $25. Alternatively, you can build your own piezo pickup for an even lower cost.
Tuners:
Tuners are crucial for ensuring the cello's strings are properly tuned. Guitar tuners are a cost-effective option, typically available for around $12 online.
Endpin:
The endpin, which provides stability and support to the cello, can be made from a steel rod purchased at a hardware store for approximately $5.
Strings:
Strings are a critical component of the electric cello. Magnetic strings, such as those used in NS Electric cellos, are an option, but they require a specific type of pickup. Alternatively, you can opt for used strings from another instrument to reduce costs.
Budgeting:
When creating a budget for your electric cello project, it's essential to consider the quality of materials and components. While it is possible to build a cello for as little as $50 if you have access to free wood and strings, investing in higher-quality parts is recommended. The cheapest electric cellos available for purchase are typically priced at €450, so setting a budget somewhere between these price points is reasonable.
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$9.99
Designing the cello
Designing an electric cello requires careful consideration of various factors, including the materials used, the structure and shape of the instrument, and the placement of its components. Here are some key aspects to consider when designing your own electric cello:
Materials and Structure:
The choice of wood or other materials for the body, neck, and fingerboard is essential. Common wood types used include solid wood, such as ash, sapele, oak, and poplar, or salvaged wood like old-growth fir. The thickness of the wood should be considered, as you may need to glue pieces together to achieve the desired width, as seen in the example of using 25mm thick timber. Additionally, the design can be hollow-bodied, requiring thinner boards, or solid-bodied, which impacts the overall structure and sound of the instrument.
String and Sound Considerations:
Cello strings are not magnetic, so a contact microphone or piezo "pickup" is necessary to amplify the sound. Alternatively, you can opt for magnetic strings, similar to those used in NS Electric cellos, which work with a standard pickup for electric bass guitars. The placement of the strings and their alignment with the tuning pegs and nut at the top of the fingerboard are crucial for proper tuning.
Headstock and Stability:
The headstock design can be personalised, but the spacing between the strings must be maintained to ensure alignment with the nut grooves. Consider a slotted headstock design, as seen on acoustic guitars, for enhanced stability.
Knee and Chest Support:
The electric cello must have additional parts to facilitate holding the instrument while playing. These pieces should come off the cello at specific angles and have particular depth measurements to match the curve of the chest and the geometry required for the knee piece.
Bridge and Fingerboard:
The angle and height of the bridge are critical to the sound and playability of the electric cello. In an electric model, the bridge is typically perpendicular to the stick, reducing the bridge height compared to an acoustic cello. Precise measurements and shaping of the fingerboard, nut, and bridge are essential for optimal performance.
These considerations provide a starting point for designing your own electric cello, ensuring that the final instrument is playable, stable, and aesthetically pleasing.
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Creating the body
The next step is to gather your materials and tools. For a wooden body, you'll need timber that is around 25mm (1 inch) thick. You may need to glue together two pieces of wood to achieve the desired width for the body. Other materials, such as aluminium tubes, bolts, and steel rods, can be used for the end pin and other components. Basic tools like a router, bandsaw, and table saw are also essential for shaping and cutting the wood.
When designing the body, it's important to consider the angles at which the cello will be held. The chest and knee pieces, in particular, need to be designed at specific angles to ensure comfort and stability when playing. The chest piece should have a total depth of 5-5/8" from the face of the cello, with a simple curve to match the top. For the knee piece, geometry comes into play to ensure the correct angle and playing position.
Another crucial aspect of the body design is the spacing between the strings. The strings should line up with the grooves on the nut at the top of the fingerboard, and this spacing will determine the placement of the tuning pegs. The design of the headstock is also important for stability, and you may consider a slotted headstock similar to those found on acoustic guitars.
Finally, the bridge height and angle are important considerations for an electric cello. Unlike an acoustic cello, the bridge is perpendicular to the stick rather than the body, which reduces the bridge height. This alteration in angle ensures that the strings do not lie too close to the fingerboard, preventing any rattling sounds during play. With careful measurements and attention to detail, you can create a functional and aesthetically pleasing body for your electric cello.
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Adding the finishing touches
Now for the fun part: adding the finishing touches to your very own electric cello!
First, let's talk about the headstock. This is where you can get creative and craft something truly unique. Keep in mind the spacing needed between the strings to ensure they line up with the grooves on the nut at the top of the fingerboard. You can design a slotted headstock, similar to those found on acoustic guitars, for added stability.
Next, you'll want to focus on the strings. Cello strings are not magnetic, so you'll need a contact microphone or piezo "pickup." You can even build your own for a very low cost. Alternatively, you can use magnetic strings designed for NS Electric cellos, which will work with a standard pickup for electric bass guitars.
Now, let's talk about the fine tuners, strings, and tailgut. These are typically purchased rather than made, so go ahead and acquire these components if you haven't already.
Finally, you'll want to test your newly crafted electric cello. Plug it into a bass amplifier and give it a go. See if everything works as intended—do the strings stay in tune? Is there any buzzing on the fingerboard? How does it sound unplugged?
With these final steps, your electric cello should be ready to play and enjoy!
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Testing the instrument
Once you've built your electric cello, it's time to test it out. Here are some crucial steps to follow when testing your newly crafted instrument:
Plugging In and Amplification
Start by plugging your electric cello into an amplifier. A bass amplifier is a suitable option. Adjust the volume and tone settings on the amplifier to a comfortable level. This will give you an idea of the cello's sound projection and overall volume.
String Tuning and Stability
Ensure that the strings are properly tuned. Check if they stay in tune as you play, allowing for some initial stretching and movement. Fine-tuners can be adjusted to achieve the correct pitch for each string. A chromatic tuner app can be used to help with this process.
Playability and Sound Quality
Play a variety of notes across the fingerboard to assess the playability and sound quality. Listen for any buzzing or rattling sounds, especially when playing closer to the fingerboard. Ensure that the fret markings are accurate, helping you find the correct finger positions.
Unamplified Sound
Try playing the cello without plugging it into an amplifier. Assess the unamplified sound, which may be quieter and slightly tinny, but still suitable for practice without disturbing others.
Comfort and Posture
Test the comfort and posture while playing. Ensure that the cello rests securely against your chest and knees. Adjust any additional components or stands to achieve the correct playing position.
Pickup and String Combination
If you've used a contact microphone or piezo "pickup," evaluate its effectiveness in picking up the string vibrations. Alternatively, if you've opted for magnetic strings, ensure they work as intended with a normal pickup.
By following these steps, you'll be able to thoroughly test your self-made electric cello, fine-tune any adjustments, and ultimately enjoy the unique experience of playing your handcrafted instrument.
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Frequently asked questions
The costs depend on the quality of the materials and tools used. The bare minimum cost to build an electric cello is around $50 if you can find a source of free wood and strings. The cheapest electric cellos to buy cost around €450.
You will need wood for the solid body, neck, and fingerboard. You will also need geared bass tuners, a nut, saddle, bridge, and end pin. For the strings, you can either use magnetic strings or non-magnetic cello strings with a contact microphone or piezo "pickup".
Basic tools like a router are required. Woodworking, soldering, and other technical skills are also necessary.
The design of an electric cello differs from an acoustic cello. The angle of the bridge is changed and the bridge height is reduced. The spacing between the strings needs to line up with the grooves on the nut at the top of the fingerboard. The parts of the cello that are held by the knees and rested against the chest need to come off the electric cello at specific angles.
