Otis Singleton
Running electrical wires through walls can improve the appearance of a room by concealing unsightly cables and power cords. This task requires some specialist tools and techniques, but it is possible for DIYers to do the job themselves. The first step is to plan the cable routes and box locations, and then cut the openings for the electrical boxes in the drywall, being careful not to cut into existing electrical wires, plumbing pipes, or other mechanicals. The next step is to locate the studs behind the wall and drill holes for the wire to pass through. Finally, the wires can be pulled through the space behind the walls using a fish stick (a flexible rod with a small hook attached to the end).
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Tools | Fish stick/tape/glow rod, screwdriver, drywall saw/jigsaw, drill, wire-pulling magnets, hooks, coat hangers, mud rings, joint compound, stud finder |
| Techniques | Running wires through walls, concealing wires, attaching cable raceways, cutting openings for electrical boxes, drilling holes in studs, pulling wires through walls, terminating cable to a keystone jack, installing jacks into wall faceplates, looping method, fishing wire |
| Considerations | Location of studs, location of electrical boxes, location of old work electrical boxes, location of outlets, location of top and sole plates, location of plumbing stack, location of wires, pipes, or other mechanicals, amount of cable needed, type of wall construction, use of specialty tools, use of DIY techniques |
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What You'll Learn
Using a fish stick
A fish stick, also known as a fish tape or glow rod, is a flexible rod with a small hook attached to the end. It is used to guide wires through the space behind walls.
To use a fish stick, first, push it through the bottom exit low-voltage box and out through the top low-voltage box. The fish stick should be protruding from both the top and bottom holes. Tape the fish stick to the wall temporarily. Next, hook the fish stick around the data, audio, video, or other low-voltage wires at the top. Pull the wiring down towards the exit hole, removing the fish stick once the wires are through.
If you are fishing wires through walls, it is important to first locate the studs behind the wall in the desired installation area. The wires and cords will run through the mostly hollow space between the studs. A stud finder should detect not only the wood studs but also the existence of pipes and wires behind the wall. Mark the stud locations with painter's tape and a writing instrument.
If you are fishing wires through an insulated wall, you can use a magnet to guide the wire. Tape a powerful magnet to the cable and stick it through the lower opening. At the other opening, tie an iron nail or a similarly-sized metal object to the fish stick and lower it through the hole in the wall. Hold a strong magnet against the wall until it catches onto the magnet. Slowly drag the magnet along the wall to move the fish stick and wires through the wall and towards the opening.
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Locating wall studs
To locate wall studs, you can use a stud finder, which is a simple, affordable tool that can help you locate studs without any guesswork. Today, many stud finders also have an additional feature that allows you to detect electrical lines. The flow of electricity creates a magnetic field that is relatively easy to detect, and some stud finders use this technology to locate both studs and electrical lines.
Alternatively, one of the strongest indicators of the presence of an electrical line is a nearby outlet in your wall. Outlets are usually attached to the studs inside walls with nails that tack them to the side of the stud. This means that there will likely be a stud located immediately to either side of an outlet. However, you should avoid drilling into these studs as the electrical lines that feed the system are typically run directly down them. Instead, use the next stud over to reduce the risk of accidentally drilling into an electrical line.
Another method to locate studs is to use a boroscope, which can be kept in your toolbox and used to explore behind walls. Small holes next to baseboards are easy to spackle and are rarely noticeable after being fixed.
If you are drilling into a wall to hang something, it is important to note that a 1.5-inch screw can safely attach a flat item to a wall by screwing into a stud. If the object you are attaching is 1/2 inch thick, use a 2-inch screw.
Finally, if you are running electrical cable through a finished wall, you will need to cut away a vertical section of drywall from the stud cavity where you want to install the cable. You can use a drywall saw or a similar tool to cut out a channel of drywall between the studs. The removed section of drywall can be saved and used for patching the wall when the cable work is completed.
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Cutting access holes
First, determine the location of the wall studs. This can be done using a stud finder, which helps identify not only the wood studs but also the presence of pipes and wires behind the wall. It is crucial to avoid cutting into existing electrical wires, plumbing pipes, or other mechanical components. Mark the desired location for the box on the wall, ensuring that it is between the studs. The location of the new wall box should align with the placement of other outlets in your house, typically 12 to 18 inches above the floor.
When cutting the openings for electrical boxes, use a drywall saw or a jigsaw. Cut at an angle to make it easier to patch the hole later. Be cautious and inspect the inside of the walls as you start cutting to ensure you don't cut into anything vital.
If you are installing new data cabling, consider terminating the installed cable to a keystone jack and installing it into a wall faceplate. This will give your setup a professional look.
Additionally, if you are dealing with a multi-story dwelling and need to run a cable from the attic to the basement, look for the plumbing stack. This vertical plumbing pipe extends from the basement to the roof, and you can utilise the open penetrations at the corners of the opening to avoid the need for drilling and patching multiple holes.
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Using a wire-pulling magnet
Step 1: Prepare the necessary magnets
The wire-pulling magnet technique typically requires two magnets: a smaller magnet that can be manoeuvred through tight spaces, and a larger, stronger magnet that can attract the smaller one from a distance. A popular choice for the smaller magnet is the RC4CDIA ring magnet, which has a diameter of 3/4 inches. This magnet is diametrically magnetized, making it strong and easily orientable. For the larger magnet, a plastic-coated block magnet, such as the BX0X08DCSPC-BLK, can be used. This type of magnet has a countersunk hole that allows for easy mounting and handling.
Step 2: Attach the smaller magnet to a chain or string
Before dropping the smaller magnet behind the wall, attach it securely to a sturdy chain or string. This chain or string will be used to pull the electric cable through the wall, so ensure that it is long enough to reach the desired location.
Step 3: Drop the smaller magnet behind the wall
Using an access point such as an attic, basement, or crawl space, drop the smaller magnet behind the wall to the location where the cable needs to go. This may involve manoeuvring the magnet through tight spaces, so ensure that it is securely attached to the chain or string.
Step 4: Use the larger magnet to fish the smaller magnet
Once the smaller magnet is in position, use the larger magnet to attract and "fish" it through the wall to the desired location for the cable. The larger magnet will be operated from outside the wall and should be strong enough to pull the smaller magnet and the attached chain or string.
Step 5: Pull the electric cable through
Finally, attach the electric cable to the chain or string using duct tape or another secure method. Carefully pull the cable through the wall, ensuring that it follows the desired path. Once the cable is in place, you can secure it and make any necessary connections.
Using wire-pulling magnets is a clever way to simplify the task of running cables through existing walls. It is important to choose the right type and strength of magnets for your specific project and always exercise caution when handling powerful magnets.
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Terminating cable to a keystone jack
To terminate a cable to a keystone jack, you will need an Ethernet keystone jack. The type of keystone jack you use will depend on the type of cable you are terminating. For example, a Cat5e cable does not have a centre spline, and both Cat6 and Cat6A will require spline removal.
If you are using a punch-down keystone jack, you will need a punch-down tool. The most common type is the 110 kinetic energy punch-down tool, but there are also one-handed punch-down tools that can cut and punch all conductors in one action. You will also need to set the impact tool to "HI" for 23 AWG conductors and "LO" for 24 AWG conductors.
If you are using a shielded toolless keystone jack, you will need to strip off about 2 1/2" of the cable jacket, then cut off the ripcord. Cut off any excess cable shield, leaving about 1/2", and fold the cable shield backward over the cable jacket. Wrap the drain wire around the shield, then slide the conductor cap down to the cable jacket.
Once you have prepared the cable, you can insert the wires into the keystone jack. The wires should be inserted according to the T568A or T568B colour code, with the blue and green pairs seated first, followed by the brown and orange pairs. Make sure that the distance from the last twist in the pair to where the individual conductor wires seat into the conductor cap does not exceed 1/2".
Finally, flush-cut the conductors so they are even with the cap housing, then snap on the IDC cap. You can now insert the keystone jack into a wall plate or patch panel.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a stud finder, a pencil, a screwdriver, a drywall saw or jigsaw, and a fish stick (also called a fish tape or glow rod).
Push the fish stick (with a small hook attached to its end) up through the bottom exit low-voltage box and out through the top low-voltage box. Tape the fish stick to the wall temporarily and hook the wires you want to pull through the wall. Once the wires are through, remove the fish stick and attach the top and bottom faceplates.
Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs. Mark the locations with painter's tape and a writing instrument. When installing electrical boxes in finished walls, the boxes should be located between the studs.
