Otis Singleton
Hooking up an electric choke carburetor is a process that requires careful consideration. While it is possible to operate a car without a choke, the choke plays a crucial role in ensuring the engine starts and runs smoothly, especially in cold weather. The electric choke requires a power source, and it is important to avoid connecting it to the coil or ignition, as this can lead to issues with the ignition switch and affect the choke's performance. Instead, it is recommended to connect it to the stator output of the alternator, specifically the stator post, which has proven effective in millions of Fords. Additionally, the choke should only receive power when the engine is running and not when the key is off or the engine is cranking. This can be achieved by routing the power through an oil pressure switch. Understanding the mechanics of the choke, such as the bi-metal spring that expands and contracts with heat, is also essential for proper installation and adjustment.
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What You'll Learn
Electric choke wiring
Firstly, it is crucial to understand the role of the choke. The choke restricts the airflow to the engine during starting and while the engine is warming up, ensuring a fuel-rich mixture for easy starting. Electric chokes use a bi-metal spring, which is made of two metal alloys with different thermal expansion rates. When the spring is heated, it unwinds due to the varying expansion of the metals, and this action opens the choke. The choke then closes as the spring cools and winds back.
Now, for the wiring process:
- The choke requires 12V power to operate, so you need to identify a suitable power source. It is recommended to connect the choke to the stator output of the alternator, specifically the stator lug or stator post. This setup has been used in millions of Fords and ensures the choke functions as intended without drawing power from the ignition system.
- You can also consider routing the power through an oil pressure switch. This setup ensures that the choke only has power when the engine is running and oil pressure is present, preventing the choke from operating when the engine stalls.
- When connecting the wiring, use a wire of appropriate gauge, such as a 14-gauge wire, and ensure that the connection is secure and insulated.
- It is important to avoid connecting the electric choke directly to the ignition system, as this can lead to issues with the ignition and may cause poor engine performance and gas mileage.
- Additionally, pay attention to the choke's timing. Once the key is turned to 'RUN', the choke begins to open, and you have a limited time to crank the engine. If you don't start the engine in time, you may end up with a partially or fully open choke, which can cause issues.
By following these steps and considerations, you can effectively wire an electric choke carburetor, ensuring optimal performance and a smooth engine start.
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How to adjust the choke
To adjust the choke on an electric choke carburetor, you must first ensure that the choke blade is completely closed. Start the vehicle, and the choke blade should open by approximately 1/8 of an inch. If the choke blade does not open, there is either a rod to bend or a screw to turn to adjust the opening. This can be found by checking the carburetor manual or guide.
If the motor runs roughly, manually open or close the choke blade slightly. If the choke is closed too much, the vehicle will run rich and may produce black smoke from the exhaust pipe. In this case, you will need to adjust the rod or screw to open the blade a little more. Conversely, if the blade is open too much, the vehicle will run lean and stall, and you will need to close the blade slightly.
In some cases, coil tension is adjustable, while in other cases, bending the linkage rod is necessary for adjustment. The lever on the carburetor may have two holes for the linkage rod to fit into, a "summer" and a "winter" position. Divorced choke coils are harder to work with on modified engines, as performance improvements often involve removing heat from the intake manifold, which affects the choke coil operation.
It is important to note that the choke should be adjusted so that it stays fully open all the time if it is not hooked up. This is because the choke normally will not fully open without power to it.
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Where to hook up the wire
When hooking up an electric choke carburetor, it is important to understand the choke's mechanism and how it is controlled. The choke is designed to open and close automatically based on the engine's temperature, and this process is facilitated by a bi-metal spring. This spring is made of two metal alloys with different thermal expansion rates, causing it to unwind as the alloys heat up at different rates and wind back when cooling down.
Now, when it comes to where to hook up the wire for the electric choke, there are a few options to consider:
Stator Output of the Alternator
It is recommended to hook up the electric choke to the stator output of the alternator. This setup has been used in millions of Fords, and the voltage variations at the stator post do not affect the choke coil's operation. This method ensures that the choke receives power when the engine is running and is blocked from receiving power when the key is off, during cranking, or when the engine stalls.
Fuse Block
You can run a wire from the fuse block (specifically the terminal marked IGN) to the tab on the plastic choke body. It is recommended to use at least a 14-gauge wire for this connection.
Windshield Wiper Hot Wire
Some users have suggested routing the choke wire to the windshield wiper hot wire. This provides the necessary 12V power to the electric choke.
Heater + Wire
Another option is to connect the electric choke to the Heater + wire, which provides the required 12V power.
Oil Pressure Switch
One user suggested routing the power through an oil pressure switch. This setup ensures that the choke only receives power when there is oil pressure, acting as a safety feature. However, it is worth noting that some users advise against connecting the choke to the oil pressure wire.
It is important to consult the manual or seek advice from a professional to ensure that you are hooking up the electric choke carburetor correctly and safely.
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The role of the spring
One end of the spring is anchored to the black plastic cap on the choke mechanism, while the other end is attached to the choke shaft. As the spring heats up, the differing expansion rates of the two alloys cause the spring to unwind, rotating the shaft and opening the choke. Similarly, cooling causes the spring to wind back, rotating the shaft in the opposite direction and closing the choke.
The bi-metal spring's response to temperature changes is utilised to regulate the choke automatically. The 12V wire connected to the choke heats a resistance heater next to the spring, which causes the spring to unwind and open the choke. This process can be observed by running hot water over the choke cover, causing the spring to expand, or by using a match to heat the cover and observing the flow of current through the switch.
Additionally, the spring can be tested in cold conditions by placing the choke cover in a freezer. This simulates cold weather, allowing extra time for the engine to warm up before the choke opens prematurely. The bi-metal spring design ensures the choke operates effectively, preventing issues such as poor spark, bad gas mileage, or potential misfires that could occur if power is drawn from the ignition or coil.
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How to avoid common issues
To avoid common issues when hooking up an electric choke carburetor, there are several steps you can take and factors to consider.
Firstly, it is important to understand that the choke should be adjusted or removed so that it stays fully open all the time. If it is not hooked up, it will not function properly, and you will need to adjust it manually.
Secondly, when wiring the electric choke, it is recommended to use a specific power source. Avoid connecting it to the coil or ignition as this can cause improper functioning, poor spark, and potential misfires. Instead, consider running a wire from the fuse block (terminal marked IGN) to the tab on the plastic choke body, using at least a 14-gauge wire. Alternatively, you can connect it to the stator output of the alternator, which is the recommended method for many cars.
Additionally, ensure that the choke has power only when the engine is running. Route the power through an oil pressure switch to block voltage to the choke when the engine has no oil pressure. This will prevent issues such as draining your battery.
When testing the electric choke, you can do a temporary hook-up to the battery for power. Observe if the choke moves the butterfly to the full open position. If the choke is working properly, when the engine is cold and you push the accelerator pedal, the choke blade will close, and as the engine warms up, the choke blade will open until it is completely open.
Finally, if your carburetor only works with the choke on, even after warming up, it indicates an issue with the fuel-air mix. This could be due to bad adjustments, a dirty carb, a busted gasket, or air intake issues. In such cases, you may need to tweak the mixture screws for balance, clean the carburetor, replace the gasket, or fix any air intake leaks.
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Frequently asked questions
The stator output of the alternator is the correct connection for an electric choke to work as designed. This is because the voltage variations at the stator post have no effect on a choke coil's operation.
The choke is only used when starting the engine. It is made of a special material called 'bi-metal', which consists of two metal alloys with different thermal expansion values. When the bi-metal spring gets hot, it unwinds and cools, winding back. This winding and unwinding mechanism is used to rotate a shaft in the carburetor choke.
If you don't hook up the electric choke wires, you will need to adjust the choke so that it stays fully open all the time. The choke will never fully open without power to it.
