Beatrice Lang
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| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | Keeping livestock contained, or wild animals and intruders out of your yard |
| Fence type | Temporary or permanent |
| Fence material | Plastic or metal rod posts |
| Charger | Weather-resilient spot near an AC outlet or an area with plenty of sunlight for a solar charger |
| Grounding posts | At least 1 grounding post that is 6 feet (1.8 m) or longer |
| Grounding wire | Extends from the ground terminal of the charger to all the grounding posts |
| Brace corners | Each corner needs to be braced with a corner piece |
| Fence posts | Wood or metal |
| Insulators | Keep the electricity in the wires and away from the posts |
| Voltage | Check with a Five-O-Lite or digital voltmeter |
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What You'll Learn
Choose a fence charger
Choosing the right fence charger is crucial to making an electric fence work for you. The fence charger is the heart of the fence system, providing the source of the electric current that flows through the fence wire. The size of the fence charger needed is determined by your fencing needs.
Firstly, consider the length of the fence. The longer your fence line, the bigger the charger you will need to maintain the required voltage along the entire length. Secondly, think about the number of wires. Thirdly, decide on your power source. You can choose between AC, DC, or solar power. AC-powered fence chargers are convenient and easy to use, as they can simply be plugged into your electrical grid. They also tend to be the most economical, as there are no batteries to replace or recharge. However, they are not suitable for remote locations without access to an AC power source. In that case, a solar-powered fence charger might be a better option. Solar-powered chargers are lightweight and easy to transport, making them perfect for rotational or strip grazing systems. They can also be used in combination with a battery, which the solar panel can recharge, thus providing a continuous output. However, solar panels tend to be the most expensive power source for a fence. A third option is a DC-powered or battery-operated fence charger. These are very easy to use in remote locations, but the batteries will need to be recharged or replaced regularly.
Another factor to consider is the type of animal being contained or excluded. Large animals with thicker hide, hair, hooves, or foot pads require a stronger shock. Determined animals like bulls or stallions also require a more powerful fence charger. The amount of weeds near your fence is another important consideration. The more weeds touching your fence line, the more power will be drawn from your charger. If you have light to medium to heavy weeds near your fence, a low impedance fence controller is recommended, as it can maintain high energy on the fence even as power is drawn by weeds.
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Install fence posts
The installation of electric fence posts depends on the type of posts chosen and the purpose of the fence. For instance, T-posts, rebar posts, and fiberglass posts are the easiest and least expensive to install, while wood posts are more durable and aesthetically pleasing.
Wooden posts are typically used for end, corner, and brace posts. To install them, you can either pound them into the ground using a post pounder or tamp them into place. Another method is to dig a hole larger than the post diameter, place the post in the hole, and then repack the soil around it, ensuring it is centred before tamping. It is recommended that wood posts are used at the corners and ends of fence lines due to the extra strain in these locations. They should be anchored 3 to 4 feet into the ground.
T-posts are most effectively installed using a T-post pounder, which can be purchased from the same source as your electric fence supplies. Rebar/fiberglass posts must be driven into the ground with a rubber mallet, while rebar can also be pounded into the ground with a heavy hammer.
When installing posts, it is important to consider the spacing between them. Standard electric fence lines can be spaced anywhere from 10 to 20 feet apart, depending on the terrain. Poly-tape and poly-wire require closer spacing of between 10 and 12 feet, while high tensile wires can be spaced up to 90 feet apart on level terrain.
Additionally, it is recommended to brace the corner posts using brace-wire, which helps pull the post in the opposite direction of the fence's tension. Corner posts should also lean back from the direction of the fence by approximately five degrees.
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Set up grounding posts
Setting up grounding posts is a crucial step in installing an electric fence. Grounding ensures that the fence functions properly, keeping livestock contained and predators out. Here are some detailed instructions for setting up grounding posts:
Firstly, you need to decide on the number and placement of your grounding posts. It is recommended to have at least one grounding post that is 6 feet (1.8 m) or longer. This post should be placed near the charger. When installing electric fencing, it is advisable to set another grounding post 10 to 20 feet away from the first post. Additionally, ground rods should be spaced at least 10 feet apart, and they need to be more than 23 meters away from any other grounds, waterlines, or utilities.
Once you have determined the placement, use a post-hole digger or slammer to create holes for the grounding posts. If you are dealing with dry or sandy soil, it is important to moisten the soil inside the hole to assist in driving the rod. Drive the rods until they are flush with the soil, leaving at least 2 inches of the post above the ground. The best ground rods are made from copper or galvanized metal and should be at least 4 feet long. Avoid using simple pipes or pieces of rebar as they will corrode over time and cause system failure.
After installing the grounding posts, attach a grounding wire. This wire should extend from the ground terminal of the charger to all the grounding posts. Use a 10- to 14-gauge insulated lead-out wire rated at 20,000 volts or better for this purpose.
Remember to periodically check the voltage of your electric fence, especially during extremely dry or wet weather conditions. Significant amounts of rain or snow can affect the fence's ability to work properly. You can use a voltmeter designed for electric fences to test the voltage. If the reading is greater than 1000 volts, consider adding another ground rod to the system.
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Attach grounding wire
To attach a grounding wire to your electric fence, you must first install grounding posts. Place one grounding post near the charger and ensure it is at at least 6 feet long, with 2 inches of the post left above the ground. It is recommended to set another grounding post 10 to 20 feet from the first post.
Next, attach the grounding wire. This wire should extend from the ground terminal of the charger to all the grounding posts. Use a ground rod clamp at each rod to connect the wire to each rod in a linear fashion, also known as daisy-chaining. Ensure you strip the end of the wire to expose the metal when clamping it to the rod to establish a connection.
The type of wire used is important. For solid wire, use 10 to 14-gauge insulated wire rated for 20,000 volts. Do not use household or industrial cables, as these are only made for 400 volts. The grounding rod should be made of galvanized steel and be at least four feet in length. Copper rods are more conductive but corrode faster, so they will need to be replaced more often.
Once all the rods are connected, the wire can be hooked up to the fence energizer. It is important to note that the wire must go to the ground terminal on the charger, not the fence wire or fence terminal. This completes the circuit, allowing the electric current to flow and the fence to function properly.
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Connect wires at gates
Gates require extra care to run voltage from one side to the other. It is recommended to run insulated cable in plastic pipes under the gate. Ensure the ends of the pipes are sealed to keep out water. Connect all electrified wires together at gates and corners to increase the voltage along the length of the fence.
Connect the fence charger so that it charges the fence from the middle, not the end, if possible. The fence charger should be connected to the fence and ground system. Check the voltage with a digital voltmeter before connecting the charger. It should read 5,000 volts or more. After connecting the fence and ground system, check the voltage again. If the voltage drops by more than 2,000 volts, there is a problem with the fence or the charger is not powerful enough.
To ensure the fence remains electrified when the gate is open, use a 20,000-volt underground hookup wire to carry the electrical current under the gate opening to the other side. This is also required for a non-electrified metal gate. Use insulated cable designed for electric fencing.
Use a Five-O-Lite or digital voltmeter to check the voltage on your fence regularly. There are three types of fence chargers: 110-volt plug-in, 6-12 volt battery-powered, and solar-powered. The 110-volt plug-in option offers the most power for the money and is often rated in joules. The 6-12 volt battery-powered option is good for remote areas but offers less power for the money. The solar-powered option has the least power and is best for short fences in remote areas.
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