Beatrice Lang
Running electricity to a detached garage is a complex task that requires careful planning and execution. The process involves determining the purpose of the building, installing the necessary wiring and electrical components, and ensuring compliance with local codes and regulations. The cost of running electricity to a detached garage can vary depending on factors such as the distance from the main power source, the type of wiring and components used, and labour costs. It is important to consult with a licensed electrician to ensure that the installation is safe and up to code.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Cost | $3,000 to $12,000 |
| Distance | 25 to 100 feet |
| Installation type | Underground trench, conduit, or cable |
| Circuit type | Single or multi-wire branch circuit |
| Disconnecting means | Required; options include a main breaker, disconnect switch, or standard wall switch |
| Subpanel | May be installed for future expansion or to accommodate heavy loads |
| Breaker | 20-amp, 50-amp, or 100-amp |
| Cable type | UF cable, THWN cable, or MHF cable |
| Grounding rods | Required if installing a feeder and subpanel |
| Outlets | GFCI outlets recommended for interior and exterior locations |
| Lighting | Dedicated 20A circuit for garage door opener |
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What You'll Learn
Disconnecting means
Every building on a premises or property is required to have a "disconnecting means" that will disconnect the building from its source of supply. This applies to all supply sources, including utility-owned conductors, customer-owned feeder conductors, and customer-owned branch circuits.
There are several approved ways to disconnect the supply:
- Installing a main breaker in a subpanel.
- Using a disconnect switch similar to those used on outdoor HVAC equipment.
- Using a standard wall switch, as long as it is rated for the appropriate load.
If you are installing a multi-wire circuit, you will need a disconnect at the garage. This could be a DPST 20 amp switch or an unfused A/C disconnect. At the main panel, you will need either two handle-tied single-pole breakers or a 2-pole breaker.
If you are installing a subpanel, you will need to install a larger feeder from your home's service panel to the new subpanel in the garage. This will accommodate potential expansion. You can run a new underground feeder from the service panel in the house to the garage. The feeder conductors terminate inside the garage at the main circuit breaker (the disconnecting means) in the new panel.
If you are not installing a subpanel, you can simply treat the garage circuit like any other branch circuit. You'll install a 20-ampere breaker in the panel in the house and run conduit or another approved cable from there.
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Installing electrical panels
Planning and Considerations:
- Local Regulations and Codes: Familiarize yourself with local electrical codes and regulations, such as the National Electrical Code (NEC), to ensure your installation complies with the standards.
- Permits and Inspections: Research the permits and inspections required for your area. Obtain necessary permits and schedule inspections to ensure your work meets safety standards.
- Feeder Circuit and Sub-Panel: Determine whether you need a sub-panel and a feeder circuit to connect multiple panels. Consult with a licensed electrician to design the electrical layout, especially if you have a two-story garage or plan to install multiple panels.
- Disconnecting Means: As per the National Electrical Code, a "disconnecting means" is required for detached structures. This can be a simple snap switch, a pullout disconnect, or a disconnect switch similar to those used on outdoor HVAC equipment.
- Grounding and Ground Rods: Understand the grounding requirements, including the number and spacing of ground rods. Ensure you follow the recommendations for connecting the ground rods to the main panel or a separate equipment ground bar.
- Conduit and Cable Type: Decide whether to use a conduit or an approved cable for running electricity to the garage. Consult local regulations and a licensed electrician to choose the appropriate cable type, such as direct burial cable or conduit-rated cable.
Installation Process:
- Main Panel and Meter Socket: Install the main electrical panel in the garage, ensuring it complies with access requirements. The panel should be installed with unobstructed access, and the panel door must be able to open a minimum of 90 degrees. Coordinate with your utility provider to install the meter socket, which should be rated for the voltage and amperage of the service.
- Junction Boxes and Conduit: If using a conduit, install junction boxes near the house and garage. Run the conduit from the house junction box, underground, and into the garage junction box. Ensure you use appropriate expansion fittings, especially when entering the buildings above ground.
- Branch Circuits: Decide whether to use a single or multi-wire branch circuit. A single circuit can power lights and receptacles together, while a multi-wire circuit allows for separating the lighting and receptacle loads. Install the appropriate breakers (single or double pole) and connect the circuits to the panel.
- Outlets and Lights: Run cable from the junction box to the outlets and lights in the garage. Ensure you follow local regulations and safety standards for outlet placement and wiring.
The cost of installing electrical panels in a detached garage can vary depending on factors such as labour rates, materials, and the complexity of the installation. It is recommended to obtain quotes from licensed electricians and consider the costs of materials, permits, and inspections.
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Types of wiring
There are several ways to wire electricity to a detached garage. The National Electrical Code (NEC) outlines specific requirements for wiring a garage, including the need for a "'disconnecting means' that will cut off the power supply to the garage.
One option is to install a sub-panel in the garage, which would involve running a feeder from the main service panel in your home to the sub-panel. This option provides expansion capabilities and can accommodate future electrical needs.
Another option is to treat the garage as a branch circuit, similar to any other branch circuit in your home. This approach does not require a sub-panel, but you will need to install a 20-ampere breaker in your home's electrical panel. From there, you can use conduit or approved cable to connect to a junction box near the garage, and then run wiring from the junction box to the outlets and lights in the garage.
The type of wiring you use will depend on local regulations and the specific needs of your garage setup. Some common types of wiring used in garage electrical installations include:
- THWN (THWN-2 or THWN-HH): This type of wiring is suitable for wet locations and can be easily pulled through conduit. It is often used when there is an existing conduit in place.
- UF (Underground Feeder): UF wiring is suitable for direct burial and can be used without conduit. However, it must be buried at a specific depth, typically 24 inches or more, depending on local regulations.
- NM (Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable): Also known as Romex, this type of wiring is commonly used for branch circuits. It is not suitable for wet locations or direct burial.
- MHF (Mobile Home Feeder): MHF wiring is a popular choice for garage electrical installations and can be directly buried or run through conduit.
- PVC Conduit: Using PVC conduit to protect the wiring is considered a "better" option for the long-term durability of the installation. It provides protection from physical damage and can be easily upgraded in the future.
It is important to consult with a licensed electrician and follow local building codes and regulations to ensure a safe and compliant installation.
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Cost of wiring
The cost of wiring a detached garage with electricity can vary widely depending on various factors, including the length of the trench, the type of wiring and cable used, labour costs, and whether you plan to install an electrical panel in the garage.
If you're installing an electrical panel in the garage, the installation process becomes more complex and expensive. You'll need to install a 20-ampere breaker in the panel in the house and run conduit or approved cable to the garage. This option tends to be more expensive due to the additional materials and labour required.
For a simpler setup without an electrical panel in the garage, you can treat the garage circuit as a branch circuit. This allows you to connect directly to the house's electrical panel. You'll still need to ensure you have a "disconnecting means," which can be a simple snap switch or a pullout disconnect for a multi-wire circuit.
The cost of wiring can range from a few thousand dollars to over $10,000, depending on the specifics of the project. For example, the wire cost alone can be around $500, and labour costs can be significant, with rates of around $70/hour for an electrician. Additionally, you may need to rent equipment, such as a trenching machine, which can add to the overall cost.
It's important to get multiple quotes from electricians or electrical companies to understand the pricing specific to your project. The cost can vary based on the company's size, location, and the scope of work required.
Finally, keep in mind that running a separate service to the garage may be billed at a commercial rate, whereas running a subpanel from the main panel in the house is typically billed at a residential rate, which can impact your overall wiring costs.
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Trench digging
Trenching is a crucial step in running electricity to a detached garage, and it's important to get it right to ensure safety and compliance with local codes. Here are some detailed instructions for trenching:
First, determine the type of soil you have. If it's granular and easy to dig, you can save money by digging a deeper trench; a depth of 12 inches is typically sufficient for most residential applications, but check your local codes for specific requirements. If your soil is rocky or heavy clay, you can reduce the amount of digging by using metal or plastic conduit to protect the wiring. In this case, a depth of 24 inches is required, and you can rent a walk-behind trenching machine to make the job easier.
Before you start digging, contact your local utility company to mark underground pipes and wires. This is a crucial safety measure to prevent accidental damage to utilities and ensure the safety of workers. You can also call the national "call before you dig" hotline, 811, to ensure no buried gas lines or electric cables are present.
When digging the trench, pay careful attention to depth and routing. Prepare for some manual digging around obstacles or in tight spaces. If you encounter challenges, don't hesitate to call a professional electrician for assistance.
After the trench is dug, lay the UF (underground feeder) cable. This specialised cable can withstand direct burial and moisture exposure. Make sure to install expansion fittings where appropriate, especially when entering buildings above ground.
Once the cable is laid, backfill the trench. Start by covering the cable with about two inches of sand to provide a protective cushion. Then, lay caution tape or red electrical tape along the entire length of the trench to warn future diggers of the presence of electric cables. Finally, backfill the trench with dirt.
After connecting your wiring and backfilling the trench, inspect where the cable enters the house and garage. Use a weatherproof sealant to patch any gaps around these entry points to prevent moisture entry, which could compromise your electrical system.
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Frequently asked questions
The cost varies depending on location, materials, labour, and soil conditions. The cost of materials alone can be around $1,500, and labour can be $200/hour. The total cost can be as high as $12,000.
According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), a garage can be supplied by a single or multi-wire branch circuit. A disconnect is required at a detached structure, such as a simple snap switch or a "pullout" disconnect for a multi-wire circuit. Every building on a property is required to have a "disconnecting means".
If your municipality deems your structure to be a storage building rather than a garage, you can run one branch circuit to the building without needing a subpanel. However, if it is considered a garage, there will be certain criteria and regulations that you will need to meet.
You may want to install a larger feeder from your home's service panel to a new subpanel in the garage to accommodate potential expansion. You can also dedicate a 20A circuit for the garage door opener and hard-wire it if possible. If you plan on installing an electrical panel in the garage, you will need to install a 20-ampere breaker in the panel in the house.
