Otis Singleton
There are several ways to run electricity to outdoor lighting, and the best method for you will depend on your specific needs and preferences. If you want to avoid tearing up your yard, running an underground electrical line is the quickest and cheapest method. This involves running underground 'line' voltage (120-volt household current) and burying a plastic-shielded cable 12 inches below ground level. Alternatively, you can run cable from an existing outdoor outlet on your house to a light at the edge of a garden path. This method requires basic wiring skills and tools, and you should allow about a day to complete the project. Another option is to use solar lights, which don't require cords or outlets and won't add to your electric bill, although they do need to be placed in a location with adequate sunlight.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Electrical line voltage | 120-volt household current |
| Running electrical wire outside | Requires basic electrical skills and tools, as well as a willingness to dig a shallow trench |
| Underground cable type | UF (underground feeder) plastic-shielded cable |
| Cable burial depth | 12 inches below ground level |
| Cable protection | Burying in conduit from the trench bottom to the electrical box |
| Feeder outlet protection | GFCI-protected (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) |
| Low voltage lighting | Requires a transformer to step down voltage from 120-volt to 12-volts |
| Transformer load rating | Typically 100- to 300-watts, higher rating allows for longer cable and more light fixtures |
| Solar lights | No cords or outlets required, but adequate sunlight is necessary for power storage |
| Generators | Provide power for outdoor lighting when outlets are unavailable or distant, requiring fuel (usually gas) |
| Outdoor receptacles | Should be installed at least 16 inches above the ground |
| Indoor-to-outdoor wiring transition | Use an LB fitting (watertight pulling elbow) for connection to conduit |
| Back-to-back receptacles | Install an indoor receptacle back-to-back with an outdoor receptacle |
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What You'll Learn
Running electrical wire outside
First, you'll need to plan where you will get power from. This could be your electrical panel or a junction box with an existing circuit, as long as it has the capacity. You'll also need to obtain any necessary permits and locate any buried electrical wires to avoid accidentally digging into them.
Next, determine the route of your electrical wire. Plot the shortest route with the fewest number of bends from your power source to your outdoor lighting. If you're running wire under concrete patios, slabs, or driveways, you'll need to follow specific depth requirements.
Now, it's time to start digging. You'll need to dig a shallow trench for your electrical wire. The depth can vary from 4 to 24 inches, depending on the wiring method and the location of the buried wire. Remember to call your local electrical inspector to schedule a wiring inspection before burying any cables.
Once your trench is dug, it's time to run the electrical wire. Use underground feeder (UF) plastic-shielded cable and bury it at the required depth. Ensure you follow the manufacturer's instructions if you're installing solar landscape lights. If you're using a transformer, connect the cable to the transformer and then to your outdoor lighting fixtures.
Finally, complete the wiring at the house, or consult an electrician for assistance. Backfill your trench and press the sod into place. Now you can enjoy your outdoor lighting and power any electrical equipment in your yard safely!
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Using solar lights
Solar-powered lights are an increasingly popular option for outdoor lighting. They are easy to install, require no wiring, and don't need to be connected to an electricity supply. This makes them a safe, flexible, and cost-effective choice for outdoor lighting.
Solar lights work by using power from solar panels and one or more rechargeable batteries. The solar panels generate electricity from sunlight, charging the batteries during the day. At night, the energy stored in the batteries powers an LED light. Most solar lights have a built-in darkness sensor, so they turn on and off automatically.
To install solar lights, simply take them out of the box and place them in your desired location. You don't need any tools or prior electrical knowledge. However, it's important to consider the placement of your solar lights. For maximum solar gain, the solar cell should face south and be positioned at an angle so it is perpendicular to the sun. Avoid placing the lights near trees, walls, or roofs that could shade the solar panels and lower their output. In the northern hemisphere, the panels' tilt angle should be adjusted to about 30 degrees in summer and 45 degrees in winter. Additionally, ensure that the solar panel remains free of dirt, debris, and snow to optimize its performance.
While solar lights are generally low-maintenance, there are a few things to keep in mind to ensure their longevity. Avoid storing solar lights in a box or a dark room without a light source on the solar panel, as this can damage the batteries. Regularly clean the solar panel with a dry cloth and warm soapy water to maintain optimal performance. Depending on usage and conditions, the rechargeable battery may need to be replaced every two years.
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Using a generator
If you don't have outdoor outlets or are trying to light an area far from your outlets, a small portable generator can be a good option for powering your outdoor lighting. Generators can be quite noisy, and you'll need to provide fuel, usually gas, which can add costs.
When using a generator, it's important to plan how you will use it before you need it. Decide what you want to power and how you will use the generator to power those loads. You can plug appliances directly into the generator or use a heavy-duty outdoor-rated extension lead rated in watts or amps at least equal to the sum of the connected appliance loads. Make sure the entire cord is free of cuts or tears and that the plug has all three prongs, especially an earthing pin.
It is extremely dangerous to power house wiring by plugging the generator into a wall outlet (backfeeding). Backfeeding bypasses built-in household circuit protection devices and can cause electrocution to utility workers and neighbours served by the same utility transformer. If you must connect the generator to house wiring to power appliances, get a licensed electrician to do it in accordance with local regulations.
To safely connect a portable generator to a building's electrical system, you can use a changeover switch or transfer switch. These switches electrically isolate the generator and the house from the grid, preventing generated power from backfeeding electricity onto the grid and causing potential hazards. Changeover switches allow power to feed from only one source at a time, while transfer switches are required for dual-voltage generators and those equipped with GFCI outlet receptacles.
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Installing outdoor outlets
Installing an outdoor outlet is a simple process, but it does require some wiring knowledge and basic electrical tools. It is also important to ensure that your indoor outlet can handle the new outdoor outlet without overloading. Here is a step-by-step guide to installing an outdoor outlet:
First, determine which exterior wall you want the outlet on and locate an interior outlet on that wall. The easiest way to install an outdoor outlet is to connect it to an indoor outlet on the opposite side of the wall. It is important to avoid using outlets in the kitchen, bathroom, or laundry room, as well as any outlets dedicated to large appliances, as these are prohibited by building codes.
Next, use a voltage tester to ensure that the indoor outlet is functioning properly and can handle the additional load. Choose a GFCI outlet that is approved for outdoor use. These outlets have a failsafe that stops them from working when they get wet, ensuring safety.
Now, it's time to drill. Find the knockout in the back of the electrical box and knock it out with a screwdriver. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs and mark the location of the new outdoor electrical box. Drill through the wall with an 18-inch drill bit to create a hole for the new box, ensuring it is in the same stud cavity as the indoor outlet.
Install the outdoor electrical box by mounting it to the wall and securing it with screws. Strip 3-4 inches off the end of the cable to expose the wires and connect the wires from the indoor outlet to the outdoor outlet, ensuring the gauge wire matches the circuit load. Pull the cable through the outdoor hole and cut it with wire cutters, leaving about 12 inches of cable extending from the interior box.
Feed the exterior length of the cable through the back of the outdoor electrical box. If using metal boxes, use a strain relief cord connector to hold the cable in place. Finally, turn on the power and test the outlet with an outlet tester to ensure it is working correctly.
With these steps, you can easily install an outdoor outlet, providing power to your outdoor lighting and other electrical needs.
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Using an extension ring
To run electricity outdoors, you can install an outdoor outlet with an extension ring. This method takes about two hours, but you should also allocate time for cutting a pathway for the cable and patching walls.
First, ensure that the new service won't overload the circuit. Then, find the easiest path for the cable to reach an outside wall, perhaps through a basement or crawlspace. Drill a locator hole using a long drill bit. If this location is inconvenient or does not satisfy the code, install an LB fitting instead of a receptacle to reroute power. Cut a hole for a remodel box using a reciprocating saw or keyhole saw, and run the cable through the hole and into the box. Install the box, and if you're using PVC, add an extension ring and a terminal adapter.
Beneath the box, dig a trench that satisfies local codes. You can use PVC or rigid metal conduit to attach a length of pipe to a sweep. Bury the cable at least 12 inches below ground level. Once outdoors, supply your lights with 1.5mm² three-core steel-wire-armoured cable (SWA). Ensure that your lights are weatherproof and suitable for outdoor use, and that your circuit is RCD-protected.
Drill a hole for your light to go, and line the hole with plastic conduit. Feed the cable through and connect the cable cores to the correct terminals within the unit or its flex cores using strip connectors. Tightly wrap these in PVC electrical tape to keep out damp. Fix the light to your wall and apply a bead of silicone sealant to prevent moisture from getting in.
Remember to always switch off the mains power at the consumer unit before starting any electrical work. Stay safe by using a socket tester or voltage tester to confirm that circuits are dead and safe to work on. Check all finished work with a tester before using, and ensure that any products are installed in accordance with local Building Regulations. If in doubt, consult a competent person registered with an electrical certification scheme.
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Frequently asked questions
The quickest and cheapest method to run electricity outdoors is to run underground 'line' voltage (120-volt household current). This involves directly burying UF (underground feeder) plastic-shielded cable 12 inches below ground level.
Installing outdoor power outlets can be done by installing a receptacle back-to-back with one inside the house. Alternatively, you can drill through the wall from a basement or crawlspace and attach a receptacle on the side of the house using an extension ring. Ensure the outdoor receptacle is at least 16 inches above the ground.
Solar outdoor lights and portable generators are alternatives to traditional electrical wiring for outdoor lighting. Solar lights can be installed almost anywhere without worrying about cords or outlets, but they require adequate sunlight. Portable generators can be used to power lights in areas far away from outlets, but they require fuel, usually gas.
