Otis Singleton
Testing an electric boiler valve can be done in several ways, depending on the type of boiler and valve. One common method is to use a multimeter to test the voltage at the valve, which can help identify if the breaker is powering the valve and thermostat. Another method is to check the current with a current clamp, which can indicate if the heating elements are functioning correctly. For safety valves, annual testing is recommended, but caution must be taken as poor-quality valves may leak after testing. Before testing, it is important to disconnect the supply cables and ensure the boiler is safe. If issues are identified, further investigation or professional assistance may be required.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Testing a zone valve on a boiler | Turn up the thermostat, wait for several minutes, then push the lever to the manual open position. If there is no resistance, the valve is open. |
| Testing a boiler relief valve | Low-pressure steam boiler relief valves should be tested when the pressure is at 75% of the relief valve setting, which is 11 Psig. |
| Testing a boiler circuit breaker | Check for 24VAC at the zone valves with a multimeter. |
| Troubleshooting an electric boiler | Disconnect the supply cables from the terminals and re-energise the supply circuit. If the RCD trips, the issue is likely with external wiring. If the RCD holds, the fault is within the boiler and caused by a failed element. |
| Troubleshooting a boiler that is not heating water | An electrician can use a current clamp to measure the current being drawn by the boiler. A lower reading than expected could indicate that one or more heating elements have expired. |
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What You'll Learn
Check the current with a current clamp
Checking the current with a current clamp is a test an electrician can perform to identify issues with an electric boiler that is powered but not heating up water. This issue is usually caused by a problem with a heating element.
To check the current with a current clamp, an electrician will place the clamp over the live supply cable (or cables in a three-phase installation) and record the reading the meter gives. The meter reading should then be checked against the expected current values in the data table in the boiler's instruction manual.
If the current reading is lower than expected, this could indicate that one or more of the heating elements within the boiler may have expired. To verify this, the electrician will isolate the supply to the boiler and measure the resistance of each of the heating elements in turn.
If the current reading is higher than expected, this could indicate a short circuit or a faulty component. In this case, the electrician will need to further investigate the issue to identify the cause.
It is important to note that any electrical work must be carried out by a competent person, ideally a professional. Homeowners who are confident with electrics and able to isolate the electrical supply can also perform this test, but it is crucial to prioritize safety and follow instructions carefully.
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Perform an insulation resistance test
To perform an insulation resistance test on an electric boiler valve, follow these steps:
Firstly, disconnect the supply cables from the terminals inside the boiler and ensure they are safe. Then, try to re-energise the supply circuit. If the RCD still trips, with the boiler disconnected, then the issue is likely with the external wiring, and a competent electrician should investigate and rectify this.
If the RCD holds and doesn't trip, the fault lies within the boiler and is likely due to a failed element. With the supply cables still disconnected, switch off the boiler MCBs on the control panel. Now, perform the insulation resistance test between the element terminals and the main earth terminal.
A fault to earth will be indicated by a low reading, generally below 499 Mega Ohms, depending on the tester. If you encounter this, contact an expert for advice on repair or replacement.
Additionally, you can check the current with a current clamp. An electrician can measure the current drawn by the boiler when it is on by placing the clamp over the live supply cable and recording the reading. Compare this reading to the expected current values in the instruction manual. If the reading is lower than expected, it could indicate that one or more heating elements have expired.
For dual heating block boilers, pay attention to the resistance values of the two element clusters. The clusters will have different heat output values, but the elements within each cluster should have similar resistance values. If any element values differ from the expected or are outside the tolerance of +/- 10%, the element has failed and requires replacement.
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Identify the correct circuit breaker
To identify the correct circuit breaker, you must first determine which breakers control various lights and outlets. This will help narrow down the possibilities for the boiler breaker. Usually, there is just one transformer providing low voltage for all the thermostats and controls, so finding that breaker will also help you identify the one controlling power to the boiler.
In a code-compliant install, the boiler circuit breaker should not be shared with any other circuits. So, if you find that a breaker controls something else, it should not be the one for the boiler.
You can also check for 24VAC at the zone valves, typically with the thermostat calling for heat. If you have two thermostats and zone valves, you can try turning one thermostat all the way down so it's not calling for any heat. Then, expose the 24VAC wires and touch a multimeter to them to see if anything registers. This will help you determine if the boiler breaker is functioning correctly.
Additionally, when you turn up the thermostat, the valve corresponding to that zone/thermostat should open. You can then go to the valve and push the lever to the manual open position. If you feel no resistance, the valve is open. If you feel resistance, the valve is closed.
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Test with a multimeter
To test an electric boiler valve with a multimeter, you must first ensure that the appliance is electrically isolated and safe to work on. Use a voltage pen or a multimeter to check that the case is not live, and ensure that your multimeter is working correctly. Then, switch off the appliance at the fused spur, remove the fuse, or lock off the isolator and MCBs/RCDs. Affix a warning sign on the fuse spur and attach an approved MCB lock.
Once you have confirmed that the boiler is safe to work on, you can use the multimeter to test specific aspects of the boiler valve. If you suspect a problem with the gas valve, you can test the voltage by setting your multimeter to the next voltage scale higher than the voltage the gas valve operates at. For example, if the gas valve operates at 24 volts, set your multimeter to 40 volts (AC). Touch the gas valve terminals with the multimeter test leads, with the red test lead on the red terminal and the black lead on the blue terminal. If you do get voltage, proceed to test for gas pressure before the gas valve and the manifold pressure when the gas valve has voltage.
Additionally, you can use the multimeter to test for earth continuity and short circuits. To test for earth continuity, set the multimeter to ohms resistance (Ω) and test that the boiler has been earthed to the electrical system at five different points, such as the boiler casing and frame. All readings should be below 1Ω. If your reading exceeds 1Ω, do not work on the boiler and exercise caution when examining the earth wires and connection points. To test for a short circuit, turn on all boiler controls with the AC power off at the point of isolation. Test the resistance between the L and N connections, and ensure that the reading is above 20Ω. Readings below 20 Ω indicate a potential issue with the pump, fan, or other boiler components.
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Check for a short in the wiring
Checking for a short in the wiring of an electric boiler valve can be done by following these steps:
Firstly, ensure that the boiler is isolated and safe to work on. This involves switching off the appliance at the fused spur, removing the fuse, or locking off the isolator and MCBs/RCDs. Affix a warning sign to prevent accidental operation during testing.
Next, identify the common wire in the wiring harness, which is usually indicated by a green/yellow wire colour. Refer to the manufacturer's wiring diagram to confirm this. Once the common wire is located, use a multimeter to test each wire against it at the harness. Press one probe into the common wire and the other probe into each of the remaining wire slots. If no short exists, the multimeter should read OL.
If you suspect a short in the wiring between the thermostat and the zone valve, perform the following steps. Set the thermostat for fan operation, ensuring the power to the furnace remains off. Place the thermostat face cover back on and test each wire to common with the multimeter, measuring for electrical resistance. If a reading in megaohms appears, it does not indicate a short. Remove any batteries and measure again. If each wire passes, the thermostat is not causing the short.
If the issue persists, disconnect the low voltage wiring harness leading to the safety switches. Test these switches and the wiring for a short to ground. If a short is indicated, continue the process of isolating and testing wires and components until the short is identified. Make any necessary repairs.
It is important to note that testing the control board with a multimeter should be a last resort, as it may potentially damage the board.
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Frequently asked questions
To test a zone valve on an electric boiler, turn up the thermostat. After a few minutes, go to the valve and push the lever to the manual open position. If there is no resistance, the valve is open. If you feel resistance, the valve is closed.
This is usually caused by a problem with a heating element. An electrician can use a current clamp to measure the current being drawn by the boiler. Check the meter reading against the expected current values in the instruction manual. A lower reading than expected could indicate that one or more of the heating elements may have expired.
If your electric boiler is leaking, it could be due to a faulty relief valve. The relief valve is a safety device, and it is recommended to test it annually. If the valve fails to reseat properly and leaks, it will need to be replaced.
If your electric boiler is open but not calling for heat, you may have a faulty thermostat or a short in the wiring between the thermostat and the zone valve. Check for a short between the zone valves and the boiler by disconnecting the end switch wires from each zone valve one at a time. If the valve closes, you likely have a short in the thermostat wiring.
