Trystan Casey
Testing an electric kiln controller is a complex process that requires careful attention to safety. Kilns can be controlled manually or automatically, with digital or electronic controllers. The latter allows users to execute pre-programmed cone firings or elaborate ramp-hold firing sequences with a few presses of a keypad. However, installing an electronic controller is more difficult than a single-zone controller, as it requires wiring directly into the kiln's heating elements. There are diagnostic tests to check kiln functionality, such as visual tests where one observes the kiln's elements through peepholes to identify issues like bad switches or relays. Checking amperage through kiln controllers is also informative, as low or high voltage can cause issues.
Characteristics and Values of Testing an Electric Kiln Controller
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Installation type | Standalone controllers, Conversion kits, DIY Builds |
| Ease of installation | Standalone controllers are the easiest to install, followed by conversion kits, and then DIY builds |
| Pre-programmed settings | Digital controllers often come with pre-programmed settings for different projects, allowing users to set schedules and programs with a few button presses |
| User involvement | Manual controllers require constant user involvement, while electronic controllers automate the process |
| Cost | Manual controllers are cheaper than electronic controllers |
| Safety | The KilnSitter acts as a failsafe for electronic controllers, preventing power from reaching the heating elements if something goes wrong |
| Voltage issues | Low voltage issues cause struggles to reach temperature, while high voltage issues cause the kiln to draw too many amps |
| Amperage readings | A reading of 0 amps indicates a bad relay, slightly low amperage indicates wearing elements or voltage problems, and significantly low amperage indicates a broken element |
| Visual test | Heating the kiln and observing through peepholes can help identify issues with elements glowing or not glowing as expected |
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What You'll Learn
- Manual vs automatic controllers: Manual controllers are cheaper but require constant attention
- Installation: Standalone controllers are easy to install, conversion kits are slightly more complex
- Testing without power: A visual test can be performed to check kiln elements are functioning
- Voltage issues: Low voltage will impact temperature, high voltage draws too many amps
- The KilnSitter: Acts as a fail-safe for electronic controllers, preventing clay meltdowns
Manual vs automatic controllers: Manual controllers are cheaper but require constant attention
Electric kilns have a variety of temperature controller options, from manual to automatic. Manual controllers are cheaper and allow users to have a hands-on experience, but they require constant attention and monitoring. Automatic controllers, on the other hand, are more expensive but offer advanced capabilities and convenience by automatically controlling the kiln's temperature and firing schedule.
Manual controllers are a good option for those who want a cost-effective solution and don't mind the extra work. They usually have a toggle on/off switch and a dial to adjust the firing time and temperature of the kiln's elements. This can be an infinite switch with graduated increments or a dial switch with low, medium, or high settings. Manual controllers allow users to have direct power and control over the firing process, making it easy to document what programs worked and which did not. However, they require constant monitoring and attention, as users need to manually adjust temperatures and keep track of temperature changes.
Automatic controllers, also known as digital controllers, take the responsibility off the kiln owner by automatically controlling the kiln's temperature and firing schedule. They offer advanced capabilities, such as the ability to manipulate cone fire mode, set multiple segments in a ramp/hold schedule, and program hold/soak mode at multiple temperatures. These controllers are ideal for those who want a more hands-off approach and don't want to spend time manually managing a program each time they fire. Digital controllers often come pre-programmed with firing schedules for various projects and allow for consistent control and the ability to fire the same sequence repeatedly.
While automatic controllers offer convenience and advanced features, they might not always be available, especially for smaller kiln models. Manual controllers are often the only option for smaller kilns or those looking for a machine for test items or beads. Additionally, digital controllers may seem daunting at first, but with a few days of experience, they become simple and reliable. They vary in complexity and offer a wide array of diagnostic tools and information delivery options.
In summary, the choice between manual and automatic controllers depends on the user's preferences, budget, and the complexity of their projects. Manual controllers are cheaper and provide a hands-on experience but require constant attention. Automatic controllers are more expensive but offer advanced capabilities, convenience, and precision, making them suitable for complex firing schedules.
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Installation: Standalone controllers are easy to install, conversion kits are slightly more complex
When it comes to installing a kiln controller, there are three main options: standalone controllers, conversion kits, and kiln controller units for DIY builds. Standalone controllers are the easiest option for DIY installation. They are typically used to upgrade a manual kiln to digital controls and come with all the necessary components, including a transformer, electrical receptacle, relays, and thermocouples. This makes them a fairly "plug-and-play" solution. Tabletop standalone controllers are the easiest to mount, as they can simply be placed on a flat surface. Wall-mounted controllers, on the other hand, require drilling into the wall or another vertical surface. The process of installing a standalone controller involves mounting the unit, running the thermocouple wire to the inside of the kiln, plugging the kiln into the controller, and then plugging the controller into a power source.
Conversion kits are the next option and are slightly more complex than standalone controllers. They are used to replace an existing automatic kiln controller. These kits include a kiln controller, wiring harness, and a faceplate, allowing for a straightforward swap with minimal modification to the kiln. It is important to ensure that the conversion kit is compatible with the wiring and controller housing of the current controller. Before purchasing a conversion kit, it is necessary to determine whether the current controller is a 3-key, 12-key, or smart controller by looking at the number of input buttons or the presence of a touchscreen.
Kiln controller units for DIY builds are the most complicated option and are typically purchased with only a faceplate and wiring harness, requiring separate purchases of thermocouples and additional splicing of wires. This option is for those who want to build their own kiln from scratch or significantly modify their existing kiln.
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Testing without power: A visual test can be performed to check kiln elements are functioning
Testing the kiln elements without power is a simple process that can help identify issues with the kiln's functionality. Here is a step-by-step guide to performing a visual test to check if the kiln elements are functioning:
Firstly, ensure the kiln is unplugged and no power is running through it. This step is crucial for safety and to ensure an accurate test. Place small slips of paper on top of or in contact with each of the kiln elements. It is important to ensure that the paper is in direct contact with the elements, and you may need more than one slip of paper depending on the design of your kiln.
Once the paper is in place, plug the kiln back in and run a custom profile with the heating rate set to maximum. If your kiln is a multi-zone type, setting the maximum rate will ensure all elements are heated. Do not proceed if you hear relays clicking, as this may interfere with the test results. After approximately three minutes, turn off the kiln and unplug it again.
Now, carefully inspect the papers. If the papers have browned or burned marks, the corresponding element is considered to be functioning. If some papers remain unmarked, it indicates that the associated elements are not heating and may need replacement or adjustment. It is important to allow sufficient time for the kiln to cool down before handling any internal components.
In addition to the paper test, a visual inspection can also be performed. Simply turn on the kiln to full power for a few minutes, darken the room, and open the lid. You should see all the elements glowing, similar to a kitchen toaster. If some elements are not glowing, it may indicate a failure, although it is important to note that some elements are designed not to glow.
These simple tests can provide valuable information about the functionality of your kiln elements without the need for complex tools or electrical expertise.
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Voltage issues: Low voltage will impact temperature, high voltage draws too many amps
Electric kilns are designed to work on a certain voltage. For instance, a large kiln is designed to work on single-phase 230V, which is the standard voltage for households in the UK. However, not all 230 volts from the national grid reach the kiln. Some of it is used up along the way, for example, in the cable from the breaker box to the kiln. A significant voltage drop will cause the firing to take longer than usual.
Volts are the pushing power that pushes the current along the conductor. The higher the amperage, the more power a kiln needs. A kiln with a higher voltage draws more amps, requiring more power.
The voltage can't get through the elements quickly enough, so the energy is released as heat. Elements have a resistance rating. If the resistance gets much higher, the kiln will not be able to draw enough power to reach the desired temperature. This is when firing starts to slow down.
To test for voltage issues, you can measure the resistance of the elements with an Ohmmeter. You should also ensure that the total amount of amperage available is enough to run your kiln.
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The KilnSitter: Acts as a fail-safe for electronic controllers, preventing clay meltdowns
The KilnSitter is a control box that acts as a fail-safe mechanism for electronic controllers, preventing clay meltdowns. It is an important safety feature for kilns, especially those with electronic controllers. When upgrading a kiln with an electronic controller, the KilnSitter is usually removed and the controller is wired directly into the kiln's heating elements. However, the KilnSitter can still be utilised as a backup measure.
To use the KilnSitter with an electronic controller, you would put a cone in the KilnSitter and latch it. This cone should be several cones higher than your desired firing temperature. The cone supports a metal rod connected to a claw on the outside of the kiln. As the kiln heats up, the cone bends due to the high temperature, causing the sensing rod resting on it to fall, which triggers the release of the claw on the outside trigger plate. This action cuts off the power supply to the kiln, stopping the firing process and preventing the kiln from overheating or experiencing a clay meltdown.
The KilnSitter acts as a safety net in case something goes wrong with the electronic controller. For example, if the thermocouple is accidentally pulled out of the kiln, the KilnSitter will trip and prevent power from reaching the heating elements. This prevents potential damage or accidents due to uncontrolled high temperatures.
It is important to note that the KilnSitter is not meant to be a permanent replacement for proper kiln supervision. While it provides a layer of protection, it should not be solely relied upon for extended periods. Modern digital controllers in electric kilns may also render the KilnSitter obsolete, as they have built-in safety features and temperature control mechanisms.
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Frequently asked questions
Some diagnostic tests that can be performed without connecting the kiln to power include a visual test, wherein you heat the kiln and observe through the peepholes (with protective glasses on) to see which elements are glowing. If a section of the kiln is not glowing, it could be due to a bad switch or relay. If all sections are glowing, it could be that the elements need replacing or there is a low voltage issue. Another easy test is to check the amperage through the kiln controllers. If a section of the kiln reads 0 amps, it could be due to a bad relay.
Any test that involves exposure to live components or the potential to be live should be performed by a licensed electrical contractor. Big swings between the voltage reading and the voltage under load reading could indicate a fire danger, so caution should be exercised.
There are three main options for DIY kiln controller installation: standalone kiln controllers, conversion kits, and kiln controller units for DIY builds. Standalone controllers are the easiest to install and are typically used for upgrading a manual kiln to digital controls. Conversion kits are used to replace an existing automatic kiln controller and require minimal modification to the kiln. Kiln controller units for DIY builds are the most complex option.
First, decide on a suitable location for the controller unit in relation to your kiln. Then, run the wire for the thermocouple so that its tip is inserted into the interior of the kiln, which may involve drilling a small hole. Plug your kiln into the standalone controller, and then plug the controller into a power source. Your installation is now complete, and you can power on your kiln.
