Otis Singleton
Grounding is an essential part of keeping an electric fence working properly. When a fence isn't working properly, it may be difficult to keep animals contained and to keep predators away. An improperly grounded fence will likely not shock an animal when it bumps up against the fence. The grounding circuit keeps the fence functioning properly and is an important part of an electric fence. There are several steps to grounding an electric fence properly, from using the right wire and grounding rod to positioning and spacing the rods correctly.
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What You'll Learn
The importance of grounding
Grounding is essential to keep an electric fence functioning properly. An electric fence works by creating a circuit: when an animal touches the fence, an electric current passes through its body and into the ground, where it is transmitted to grounding rods connected to the energizer, completing the circuit. This delivers a corrective shock to the animal, teaching it to stay away from the fence.
However, if the fence is not grounded properly, the circuit will not be completed, and the animal will not receive a shock. This can be dangerous, as it means the fence will not effectively contain livestock or deter predators. In fact, problems with electric fences are often traced back to improper grounding. This can be caused by various factors, such as very dry or wet weather, frozen or snow-covered ground, or using the wrong type of wire or grounding rod. Therefore, it is important to regularly check the voltage of the fence and the grounding system to ensure it is working effectively.
To ensure proper grounding, it is crucial to select the right materials. The grounding rod, for example, should be made of galvanized steel and be at least four feet in length. Copper rods should be avoided as they can diminish the effectiveness of the connection. Additionally, the correct type of wire must be used; solid wire should be 10-14 ga. insulated wire rated for 20,000 volts. Household or industrial cables are insufficient as they are only made for 400 volts.
It is also important to consider the placement of the grounding system. The ground rods should be spaced about ten feet apart near the beginning of the fence, and they should be installed in an area of soil that is conductive (not sandy or rocky). They should also be more than 23 metres away from other grounds, waterlines, or utilities to avoid interference. By following these guidelines, you can ensure that your electric fence is properly grounded and functioning effectively.
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How to install ground rods
Grounding rods are an essential component of an electric fence. When an animal touches the fence, an electric current passes through its body and travels through the earth to the grounding rod, which then completes the circuit and delivers a shock to the animal.
To install ground rods, begin by locating an area of soil that contains good, conductive earth—avoid sandy or rocky terrain. The first grounding rod must be driven into the soil within 20 feet of the fence energizer. The rods are typically made of galvanized steel and should be at least four feet in length, with only a few inches remaining above the ground to clamp on the wire. Additional rods should be placed at least 10 feet apart from each other. For ease of installation, you can pour water into the entry point before pounding in the rods. A sledgehammer, T-post driver, or hammer drill can be used to install the rods.
Once the rods are in the soil, connect them to each other and to the energizer. Start by running an insulated wire from the energizer to the nearest ground rod. Use a ground rod clamp to connect the wire to the rod. Continue connecting each rod to its neighbour using the same method. Finally, connect the insulated wire to the energizer, attaching it to the ground terminal.
It is important to regularly check the level of electrical current to ensure the fence is working effectively. Test the grounding system with a voltage tester during dry and wet seasons to ensure optimal performance all year round. Vegetation and plant growth may also affect the circuit, so be sure to frequently inspect your fence and make any necessary adjustments.
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What wires to use
When grounding an electric fence, it is important to use the correct type of wire. For the best results, use 10–14-gauge insulated wire rated for 20,000 volts. Do not use household or industrial cables, as these are only made for 400 volts, which is not enough to support an electric fence.
The grounding circuit is a critical component of an electric fence, so it is important to use the proper type of grounding rod. The rod needs to be made of galvanized steel and should be at least four feet in length. Using copper rods will diminish the effectiveness of the electrical fence system. Pipe or rebar can also be used, with rebar being the cheapest but least durable option.
Once the ground rods are installed, connect them to your energizer by running insulated wire from your energizer to the nearest ground rod. Cover the connection with a green knob to easily identify which side is the ground. Remember, “green means ground”.
If you are using a one-wire system, connect the "fence" terminal to the fence wire using insulated hookup wire. If you have a larger area or are using more than three strands of wire, a two-wire ground system should be used.
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How to test your grounding system
Testing your grounding system is essential to ensure your electric fence is functioning properly. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to test your grounding system:
Understand the Basics:
The grounding system of an electric fence involves a series of conductive rods driven into the soil, collecting electrons from the soil to complete an electrical circuit. This circuit delivers a shock to any animal touching the fence.
Locate Grounding System:
Find the area where your grounding system is installed. It should be within 75 feet of your fence charger or energizer but at least 25 feet away from buildings with metal siding.
Check Soil Conditions:
Inspect the soil around the grounding rods. Ensure it is not extremely dry, sandy, or rocky, as these conditions can hinder the flow of electrons. If the soil is dry, you may need to water it regularly or consider adding a bentonite mix to improve moisture retention.
Test Voltage:
Use a voltmeter designed for electric fences to measure the voltage. First, turn off the energizer. Then, use multiple metal posts against the fence wire at least 300 feet from the energizer to load down the fence until you obtain 2,000 volts or less. This step is crucial as it allows you to test the capability of your grounding system by forcing electrons into the soil.
Compare Voltage Readings:
Take voltage readings at different points in your system. Compare the voltage between the hot wire and the ground wire, and then between the hot wire and an independent ground rod. If the second reading exceeds the first by more than 1,000 volts, check the ground return wire for loose connections.
Adjust Grounding System:
If your voltage readings indicate poor grounding, consider adding more grounding rods to improve ground performance. Place the rods at least 10 feet apart to minimize electrical resistance and maximize electron flow. Use galvanized steel rods that are at least four feet in length, and connect them with an unbroken wire and ground rod clamps.
Remember to test your grounding system at least once a year, especially during dry periods, to ensure that your electric fence functions effectively regardless of the weather conditions.
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How to locate ground rods
Grounding rods may be made of copper or galvanised metal. Copper is a better conductor, but it can be more expensive. The first grounding rod must be driven into the soil within 20 feet of the fence energizer. Additional grounding rods should be spaced at least 10 feet apart from each other and from utilities such as phone lines. The rods should be driven as deep as possible, with only a few inches left above the ground to clamp on the wire.
The length of the rod depends on the joules of output from the energizer—a higher output means more ground rod is needed. A standard recommendation is 3 feet of ground rod per joule of output. If the ground is dry, you can add a pinhole to the bottom of a 5-gallon bucket and fill it with water to allow a slow trickle to soak the ground rod and boost pulse strength.
In areas with a very shallow depth to bedrock, it may not be possible to bury rods deep enough. In these cases, ground plates can be used instead of rods. To ensure that ground rods are in in contact with enough soil moisture to complete the circuit, install 3 feet of the ground rod below the water table for every joule of output provided by the energizer.
If you are in Ontario, you can contact Ontario One Call to help locate publicly-owned infrastructure. A private locator can also be hired to find other buried infrastructure.
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Frequently asked questions
Grounding is essential to keep the fence functioning properly. The grounding circuit keeps the fence working, and when an animal touches the fence, the electric current passes through the animal's body and into the ground, delivering a shock.
First, locate an area of soil that has good, conductive earth—not sandy or rocky. Install two to three grounding rods, spaced about ten feet apart, near the beginning of the fence. Then, connect them to your energizer by running insulated wire from the energizer to the nearest rod and then to the others.
The grounding rod needs to be made of galvanized steel and should be at least four feet in length. Copper rods are not recommended as they diminish the effectiveness of the fence system.
You can test your grounding system with a voltmeter designed for electric fences. If the reading is greater than 1000V, you need to add another grounding rod to your system.
Dry, wet, or cold weather can affect the ability of the fence to work properly. Therefore, it is important to check the ground system and voltage during these conditions. Vegetation and plant growth might also affect the circuit, so check your fence frequently.
