Molly Ayala
Electric fences are used by farmers and ranchers to control livestock and keep out predators. The number of strands in an electric fence is less important than the location and spacing of the electrified wires. The key principle is to deliver a shock to an animal in front of its eyes, so that it backs up, rather than running forward through the fence. To install a three-strand electric fence, you need to plan your layout, install grounding posts, attach a grounding wire, install your fence posts, mount the insulators, and run the wire.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of strands | 3 |
| Wire type | Insulated wire, braided or rope style fencing |
| Wire tension | High tensile wire |
| Wire spacing | Based on animal's nose height, ensuring head can't fit between wires |
| Grounding posts | Minimum 1 post that is 6 feet long, with 2 inches above the ground |
| Corner posts | Larger diameter, with at least 1/3 of length underground and/or braced |
| Insulators | UV-resistant, allowing wire to move freely |
| Energizer | Connect to an energizer, not an outlet |
| Jumper wire | Allows for charging lower or middle wire or both |
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What You'll Learn
Planning and layout
Firstly, determine the purpose of your electric fence and the specific needs it should address. Consider the number and type of animals you need to contain or exclude. For example, if you're dealing with livestock, you'll need to ensure the fence is high enough to prevent them from jumping over or breaching it. Additionally, consider the layout of your land and any specific challenges or requirements it presents.
Next, carefully measure the area where you intend to install the fence. This includes deciding on the length and height of the fence, as well as the number and placement of wires. The number of wires or strands is less important than their location and spacing. The wires should be spaced in a way that prevents animals from getting their heads through the fence, as this can trigger their flight response and cause them to run through the fence. Additionally, consider the terrain and any natural obstacles that may impact the fence's layout.
When planning your fence layout, it's important to decide on the type of fence posts you will use and their placement. Corner posts should be larger in diameter than the posts along the sides and should be properly braced or anchored. Avoid installing posts too frequently, as this can be unnecessary and wasteful. Instead, focus on strategic placement and consider using stays along the wires for support if your posts are spaced further apart.
Select the appropriate fencing materials, including insulated wire specifically designed for electric fences. Choose a suitable energizer to power your fence, keeping in mind that solar units, while portable, may be more costly and less effective in cold temperatures due to battery depletion. Additionally, consider the conductivity and resistance of the materials, as this impacts the strength and effectiveness of the electric pulse.
Lastly, don't forget to include grounding posts in your layout. You will need at least one grounding post that is 6 feet (1.8 m) long, placed near the charger. It is recommended to set another grounding post 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) from the first post. These posts are essential for grounding the electric fence and ensuring its effectiveness.
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Grounding posts and wires
To install electric fencing, grounding posts are essential. You will need at least one grounding post that is 6 feet (1.8 m) or longer. Place one grounding rod near the charger and use a post-hole digger/slammer to set the grounding post. Ensure that you leave at least 2 inches (5.08 cm) of the post above the ground. It is also recommended to set another grounding post 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) from the first post.
The next step is to attach a grounding wire. This wire should extend from the ground terminal of the charger to all the grounding posts. Secure the wire to the posts with a grounding clamp. This wire ensures that the electric fence is properly grounded and reduces the risk of electrical hazards.
When installing fence posts, use a long string to mark a straight line for post placement. As a general rule, at least 1/3 of the overall length of each post should be buried underground to provide stability. Corner posts should be larger in diameter and can also be braced or anchored for additional support. It is important not to place the posts too close together, as this can weaken the fence.
Insulators are crucial to preventing electricity from flowing into the posts. Choose insulators that are specifically designed for your type of fence wire, allowing the wire to move freely without rubbing. Mount the insulators on the posts before running the wire through them. Always use connector clamps to secure the wire, rather than wrapping it around the posts, to maintain tension and prevent corrosion.
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Installing fence posts
To install fence posts for a three-strand electric fence, follow these steps:
First, plan the layout of your fence. Consider the number of animals you need to contain and decide on the spacing and number of wires you will use. Measure the plot carefully and determine the appropriate height, length, and wire necessary to complete the job. Decide on how many brace corners you will need—each corner of an electric fence should have a corner piece for support.
Next, install your grounding posts. You will need at least one grounding post that is 6 feet (1.8 m) or longer. Place a grounding rod near the charger and use a post-hole digger to set the grounding post, leaving at least 2 inches (5.08 cm) of the post above the ground. It is recommended to set another grounding post 10 to 20 feet (3 to 6 m) from the first post. Attach a grounding wire that extends from the ground terminal of the charger to all the grounding posts, securing it with a grounding clamp.
Now, you can install your fence posts. Use a long string to mark a straight line for your posts and use a post-hole digger to set them securely in the ground. Ensure that at least 1/3 of the overall length of your post is buried underground. Corner posts should be larger in diameter than the posts along the sides and should also have at least 1/3 of their length underground and/or be properly braced. Do not install posts too frequently, as this can weaken the fence. If your posts are more than 40 feet (12.2 m) apart, install stays along the wires to keep them evenly spaced and create greater stability.
Finally, mount the insulators and run the wire. Insulators are important to keep electricity in the wires and away from the posts. Most manufacturers include insulators designed for their products. Use connector clamps to mount the wire on the posts, starting at the post farthest from the charger. Never wrap the wire around the posts, as this can loosen the cable and cause corrosion. Pull the wires taut at the anchor end.
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Insulators and connectors
Insulators
Insulators are essential for maintaining the functionality of your electric fence by keeping electricity in the wires and preventing it from reaching the posts. It is important to invest in high-quality insulators that are UV resistant and designed for long-term use. The type of insulator you choose will depend on the specific requirements of your fence. For example, some insulators are designed to permanently hold the wire, while others, like swivel-lock or pin-lock insulators, offer more flexibility by allowing you to release the wire with ease.
When installing insulators, ensure they provide adequate space for the wire to move freely without gripping it. This is particularly important to prevent wire breakage if your cattle or wildlife come into contact with the fence. Additionally, consider the type of fence wire you are using, as manufacturers often design insulators tailored to their specific products. Braided or rope-style fencing, for instance, typically requires insulators that provide sufficient space to slide through and prevent rubbing.
Connectors
Connectors play a vital role in mounting the wire to the posts of your electric fence. It is recommended to use the connector clamps provided by the manufacturer to ensure compatibility and security. These clamps will help you securely mount the wire, starting from the post farthest from the charger, and pull the wires taut at the anchor end. Avoid simply wrapping the wire around the fence posts, as this can lead to corrosion and loosen the cable over time.
When it comes to connectors, you also have the option of using jumper wires. These wires allow you to connect and charge different strands of your electric fence as needed. Jumper wires provide flexibility, enabling you to choose which strands to energize or de-energize based on your specific requirements. For example, you might want to de-energize the lower or middle wires while keeping the top wire charged to prevent livestock from crowding the fence during repairs.
By carefully selecting and installing insulators and connectors, you can ensure the effectiveness and longevity of your 3-strand electric fence. Remember to consider the specific recommendations provided by the manufacturer of your fencing system, as they may offer tailored advice for their products.
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Energisers and grounding
Grounding, or earthing, is the process of connecting the electric fence to the earth. It is essential for the energiser to work as it should. A well-installed earth system will ensure the fence delivers the right voltage to deter livestock. Poor grounding can result in insufficient voltage, which may not be effective in containing animals.
To achieve proper grounding, start by choosing the right earth rods. Galvanised or stainless steel earth rods are recommended, with a minimum length of 1 metre. For best results, use rods that are 1.5 to 2 metres long, especially in dry, sandy, or rocky soil conditions, as these types of soil do not conduct electricity well. Place the rods in moist, mineral-rich soil for optimal grounding.
When using multiple rods, connect them with thick, double-insulated grounding wire. Create a short circuit by placing iron rods about 100 metres away from the energiser and connecting them to the electric conductors. Ensure the wire is securely attached to the rod, and drive the rod at least 30 cm deep into the soil. Switch on the energiser and measure the voltage directly at the fence, which should be around 2000V. If the voltage is lower, add more iron rods along the fence.
Earth cables are also used for grounding and are designed to carry power from the energiser to the fence line and provide a safe path for electrical current to dissipate into the ground in the event of a fault or surge. These cables protect energisers from damage caused by electrical surges and lightning strikes.
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Frequently asked questions
The number of strands is less important than the location and spacing of the electrified wires. The key is to prevent animals from getting their heads through the fence, so they don't breach it. You should also ensure that if an animal is shocked, it happens in front of its eyes, so it backs up, rather than running forward through the fence.
Plan your layout and the number of wires you need. Corner posts should be larger in diameter than other posts and installed with at least 1/3 of their length under the ground. Don't install posts too frequently—this can weaken the fence. Install at least one permanent fence tightener on every stretch of the fence to adjust wire tension.
Use insulated wire designed for electric fences. Always connect the fence to an energizer, not an outlet. Solar units are very portable but are costly and less effective in cold temperatures. Braided wire is better than twisted wire as it increases the frequency of metal filaments on the outside of the strand, improving conductivity.
Install grounding posts and a grounding wire. Mount insulators to keep electricity in the wires and away from the posts. Run the wire using connector clamps, starting from the post furthest from the charger. Never wrap the wire around the posts. Connect all three strands at the beginning and end of the run.
