Beatrice Lang
Running electrical wires through walls can be a challenging task, but it is possible to do so without destroying the walls. The process involves fishing wires through the wall cavity, and the specific approach will depend on the scope of the job and the circumstances. It is important to have a basic understanding of electrical work and circuits to choose the right cable and ensure the work is done safely. Local codes and regulations should also be considered, as some areas may have restrictions on the type of wiring allowed and whether a licensed electrician is required. Before beginning any work, it is crucial to turn off the power and verify that there is no live wiring in the wall. The use of a stud finder can help locate studs, pipes, and existing wires to avoid drilling into them. Drilling slowly and carefully is essential to prevent accidentally damaging any gas lines, plumbing pipes, or electrical lines.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Tools | Stud finder, painter's tape, writing instrument, drywall hand saw, oscillating multi-tool, utility knife, drywall saw, screwdriver, fish stick, drill, flashlight, dust mask, safety glasses, circular saw, masonry blade, joint compound, conduit, armored cable, fish tape, coat hanger |
| Techniques | Running wires through walls, tracing wires, fishing wires, extending circuits, drilling, cutting holes, removing drywall, mapping out the route, checking for obstructions, turning off the power, checking local electrical code, pulling wires |
| Considerations | Wire gauge, amperage, circuit breakers, local code, electrical restrictions, voltage, building materials, obstructions, access space, safety, cost, difficulty, time, light, location, scope of work, cable type, cable length, cable visibility, cable route, cable installation, cable connection, wire connections, wire length, wire thickness, wire safety, wire visibility, wire type, wire placement, wall type, wall surface, wall corners, wall studs, wall height, wall outlets, wall patching, wall drilling, wall opening, wall blocking, wall braces, insulation, room type, room access, room location, room floor, house type, house floors, house wiring, house circuit, house service panel, house basement, house attic, house crawl space, house ceiling, house plumbing, local government, local municipal department, electrician |
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What You'll Learn
Using a stud finder to trace wires and locate blocks
Using a stud finder is a great way to trace wires and locate blocks before running electrical lines behind a wall. Stud finders are sensitive to electric fields, so they can detect live wires and electrical wiring hidden behind walls. This is a crucial step to prevent accidental drilling or nailing into live wires during installation.
There are various types of stud finders available, with some models offering innovative features to help identify the width of the stud, stud centres, and the presence of pipes and wires. More advanced stud finders may also have different scanning modes, such as metal detection for pipes and AC electrical wire detection. It is important to read the instructions that come with your stud finder to understand the symbols and scanning modes available.
To use a stud finder to trace wires, start by powering it up and selecting the appropriate scanning mode, such as AC electrical wire detection. Gradually glide the tool along the wall, watching for indicators that signal the edge and centre of a stud. Some stud finders may have an illuminated arrow, a buzzer sound, or a signal strength indicator to help pinpoint the location.
If your stud finder does not have adjustable sensitivity, you can modify it by placing paper between the stud finder and the wall. This decreases the sensitivity and allows for more precise detection. Thicker materials, such as phone book pages, can be used to adjust the sensitivity based on the current in the wire and the paint used on the wall.
It is important to note that stud finders are not always accurate, and false positives or negatives can occur. Visual inspections and verifying that the power is off using a non-contact circuit tester are important additional steps to ensure safety. Additionally, consult your local code requirements and consider seeking professional help for long or complicated cable runs.
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Cutting holes in walls and drilling through studs
Planning and Preparation:
Before you start cutting holes or drilling, it's crucial to plan the route for the electrical lines. Identify the path from the electrical source to the destination box, considering any obstacles like pipes or existing wires. Use a stud finder to locate the studs, pipes, and wires behind the wall. Mark the stud locations with painter's tape and a writing instrument. The standard height for running electrical wire is typically 16 to 18 inches above the floor and in line with the wall's outlets.
Cutting Holes in Walls:
When cutting holes in walls, it's important to use the right tools and follow safety precautions. Mark the installation and exit points for the electrical lines. If you're working with drywall, use a drywall hand saw or an oscillating multi-tool to cut through it. Ensure a minimum clearance of 2 1/2 inches from any stud. If you encounter blocking, you may need to cut or drill through it.
Drilling Through Studs:
Drilling through studs requires precision and compliance with building codes. The National Electrical Code (NEC) specifies that holes must be at least 1 1/4 inches from the edge of the stud. Use a drill bit that is appropriate for the material you're drilling through, such as a spade bit, auger bit, or a standard twist drill. Drill holes slightly oversized, especially for hot water pipes, to prevent annoying sounds due to expansion and contraction. Keep the holes square to the stud for easier wire installation.
Safety Considerations:
Always prioritize safety when drilling through walls and studs. Wear safety glasses and work gloves to protect your eyes and hands. Ensure you have access to the water and gas shut-offs, and turn off the breakers for any electrical circuits in the work area. Be extremely cautious to avoid drilling into existing wiring or plumbing. Know your local building codes and ensure your work complies with all relevant regulations.
Running Electrical Lines:
Once you've cut the holes and drilled through the studs, it's time to run the electrical lines. Use a fish stick (also called a fish tape or glow rod) to pull the wires through the space behind the walls. Push the fish stick through the low-voltage boxes and hook it around the data, audio, video, or other low-voltage wires. Ensure consistent hole heights to simplify the wire-pulling process.
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Using a fish stick to pull wires through
Fishing wires through walls can be challenging, but it is possible to do so without destroying the walls. The standard height to run electrical wire in walls is 16 to 18 inches above the floor and in line with the wall's outlets. Before starting, you should map out the route you want your wire to take and use a stud finder to locate any blocking that might obstruct that route. You should also ensure you are familiar with the relevant electrical code for your area.
A fish stick, also called a fish tape or glow rod, is a flexible rod with a small hook attached to the end. It is used to guide wires through a wall. To use a fish stick to pull wires through a wall, you will first need to install low-voltage boxes before running the wires through the entrance and exit holes. Place one of the low-voltage boxes on the entrance hole and use a writing instrument to mark the corners of the box on the drywall. Use a level to draw a line connecting the corners, then use a utility knife to score along the tracing line. Cut along the line with a drywall saw, ensuring the saw goes no more than half an inch into the wall. Remove the cut drywall, then push the low-voltage box into the opening and secure it with a screwdriver. Repeat this process for the exit hole, ensuring the box is adjacent to or above the power outlet.
Once the boxes are installed, it's time to feed the fish stick through. Push the fish stick up through the bottom exit low-voltage box so that it protrudes from both the top and bottom holes. Tape the fish stick to the wall temporarily, then hook it around the wires at the top. Secure the wires to the fish stick with electrical tape, then slowly pull the fish stick and wires back down through the wall.
If your start or endpoint is in a panel, it is recommended to start or end one hole before your entry connector into the panel to make the pull easier. It is also important to use a non-conductive fish stick if the panel is energised.
There are several tools and methods that can assist with pulling wires through a wall. For example, you can tape a powerful magnet to the cable and use a metal object tied to a fish tape to attract the magnet and guide the cable through. You can also use a glow rod, which illuminates dark joist and stud bays, or a flex bit, which has an eyelet at the tip to pull the wire back through the drilled holes.
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Running wires through unfinished basements or attics
In an unfinished basement, it is common to run wires along the ceiling, as that is where other wires are typically located. When running wires parallel to the ceiling joists, you can staple them to the edge of the joist or to the side, maintaining a distance of at least 19 mm (3/4 inch) from the edge. Perpendicular wires are usually stapled to each joist and allowed to hang freely between them or stapled to a board. However, local codes may prohibit stapling wires to the bottom edge of joists when running perpendicular wires, requiring you to run them through bored holes in the joists.
When running wires through exposed locations like unfinished basements or attics, you should use holes or notches cut in the joists instead of stapling them to the face of the joists. This is particularly important if you are using NM cable. Ensure that the wire gauge matches the amperage of the circuit. For standard 120-volt branch circuits, use 12-gauge wire for 20-amp circuits and 14-gauge wire for 15-amp circuits.
In some cases, you may need to run wires through metal or plastic conduit or use a metal-sheathed cable like BX cable. This is often required when the wall has no finished surface or when the cable must be mounted directly on the wall surface. Additionally, check your local electrical code requirements, as some areas may have specific mandates for running cable in exposed locations.
If you are working in an attic, you may need to cut a small hole in the wall surface to gain access for drilling. This hole can be patched after the wiring is complete. Be cautious, as there may be fire blocks in the wall, requiring you to cut a hole that extends above and below the block to drill through and feed the wire. Remember to consult an electrician or a professional if you are unsure or uncomfortable with any part of the process.
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Hiding wires in low-voltage boxes or brackets
First, you need to locate the studs behind the wall where you plan to install the TV. Use a stud finder to detect not only the wood studs but also any pipes or wires behind the wall. Mark the stud locations with painter's tape and a writing instrument. The standard height for running electrical wire is typically 16 to 18 inches above the floor and in line with the wall's outlets.
Next, install the low-voltage boxes or brackets. Place one of the low-voltage boxes or brackets, such as the Arlington LVN Nail-On Mounting Bracket, over the entrance hole. Mark the corners of the box on the drywall and use a level to draw a line connecting the corners. Score along this line with a utility knife to make cutting easier. Cut along the line with a drywall saw, going no more than half an inch into the wall. Remove the cut drywall, then push the low-voltage box or bracket into the opening. Secure the box by turning the box tabs with a screwdriver.
Repeat this process for the exit hole, ensuring the second box or bracket is placed adjacent to or above a power outlet. Once both boxes are installed, you can run the wires through the wall. Use a fish stick (a flexible rod with a small hook) to pull the wires through. Push the fish stick through the bottom exit low-voltage box and out through the top box, then hook it around the wires and pull them down towards the exit hole.
Finally, attach the top and bottom face plates to complete the task of hiding the wires. Choose a wall plate with a flexible opening or a coaxial cable jack, depending on your needs. Replace the TV onto the wall brackets, ensuring it covers the entrance hole. Slightly insert the wires at the lower exit hole to conceal them, then connect any remaining cables and plug in the TV.
Additionally, there are other methods to hide wires, such as using cord covers or surface mount boxes like the SINGLE-GANG, which allow you to attach wall plates without cutting into the wall.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need a stud finder, a drill, a utility knife, a drywall saw, a screwdriver, and a fish stick (also called a fish tape or glow rod).
You should use a stud finder to detect the existence of studs, pipes, wires, and other obstacles behind the wall. You should also consult the blueprints of the space if you have them.
A fish stick is a flexible rod with a small hook attached to the end, used to pull wires through the space behind the walls. You push the fish stick up through the bottom exit low-voltage box and out through the top low-voltage box, then tape it to the wall temporarily.
The kind of wire you need will depend on the amperage of the circuit and the scope of the job. For standard 120-volt branch circuits, 12-gauge wire is used for 20-amp circuits and 14-gauge wire is used for 15-amp circuits.
