Umair Gaines
Testing an electric trailer brake plug is an important part of routine maintenance before towing. Faulty trailer brakes can be caused by a range of issues, from a bad brake controller to a short in the wiring. To test the plug, you can use a multimeter to check for voltage drops, which may indicate a poor connection. You can also check the trailer brake wiring between the brake controller and the brake magnet, as well as the amperage of the magnets. If you have a proportional mode electric brake controller, you may need to change it to User Controlled mode to test the trailer brakes while the vehicle is stationary. It is important to consult the breakaway brake manufacturer's instructions and perform tests before towing to ensure the safety of your vehicle.
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What You'll Learn
Check for voltage drops with a volt meter
To check for voltage drops with a voltmeter, you must first ensure that all connections are secure. If they are, you can cut the blue wire around 6 inches back from the brake controller and test for voltage there. If there is full voltage at this point, then there is an issue with the brake output circuit somewhere between that point and the trailer connector.
You should then check the vehicle's side trailer connector for any signs of corrosion or a poor ground connection. Also, check the brake output wire for any damaged sections that could be causing a drop in voltage. If you do not have the proper voltage at this point, the brake controller may be faulty and will need to be replaced.
It is important to note that the recommended current for the magnet wires is based on the size of the magnet. Trailer brakes are expected to produce between 6.3 to 20.6 volts for a 7-inch magnet and 7.5 to 25.5 volts for a 10–12-inch magnet. These ranges also differ based on the number of brakes.
To test for a shortage in the wires, set your meter to ohms, and place one probe on one of the brake magnet wires, and the other probe on the other wire. An “O.L” reading indicates a shortage in one of the wires.
To test a brake magnet, measure the amount of resistance or ampere coming from the brake magnet wires. If you get an ampere reading or O.L. resistance reading, there is a problem with the magnet. A trailer brake may not work properly if the electrical connections are bad or the brake magnets are weak.
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Test trailer brake wiring with a multimeter
Testing trailer brake wiring with a multimeter is a straightforward process that can help identify any issues with your trailer's brake magnets or wiring. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:
Step 1: Understand the Basics
Before you begin, it's important to know that your trailer brake magnets draw amperage from the brake controller based on the output voltage it sends. The brake controller should receive 12 volts of power, and you can test the power supply with a multimeter. Additionally, when testing, you'll want to note the number of brakes, your trailer pin plug configuration, and the recommended current the magnet wires should produce, as this current is based on the size of the magnet.
Step 2: Set Up the Multimeter
Set your multimeter to Ohms (Ω) to measure resistance. You can place the probes (negative and positive) on any of the brake magnet wires, as there is no polarity between them.
Step 3: Perform the Test
Place the negative probe on one of the brake magnet wires and the positive probe on another magnet wire. Observe the reading on the multimeter. If the reading is below or above the specified resistance range for your brake magnet size, it indicates a problem with the brake, and it may need to be replaced.
Step 4: Test for Shorts
To determine if a brake magnet has an internal short, touch the base of the magnet to the negative post of a 12-volt battery. Then, connect one of the brake magnet wires to the negative lead of the multimeter and the positive lead to the positive post of the battery. If any amperage is detected, the magnet has a short and needs replacement.
Step 5: Additional Testing
You can also test for a direct short in the wiring. Disconnect the plug between the chassis and the tongue/drawbar. If the fault persists, disconnect each brake hub one at a time. If the direct short remains, there may be an issue with the chassis wiring, possibly caused by a mounting bolt pinching the wires.
Step 6: Alternative Method
An alternative method involves applying an electric current to the brakes through the controller. Place a compass near the brakes and observe if it moves. If the compass doesn't move, there may be a problem with the controller or wires, as the current isn't reaching the magnets.
By following these steps and performing these tests, you can effectively diagnose issues with your trailer brake wiring and magnets, ensuring they are in proper working condition.
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Check for abnormal magnet wear
Checking for abnormal magnet wear is a crucial step in ensuring the proper functioning of electric trailer brake plugs. Here are some detailed instructions to help you through the process:
Firstly, it is important to visually inspect the magnets for any signs of wear or abnormality. Check the friction surface of the magnet that comes into contact with the brake drum. If you notice any exposed windings or copper wiring showing through the face of the magnet, this is a clear indication of abnormal wear, and the magnets will need to be replaced. This exposure can lead to an open electric circuit, rendering your brakes useless.
Next, examine the four small holes on the face of the magnet, known as "wear indicators." If these holes are not visible or have diminished in number, it is a sign that the magnet has worn down and needs replacement. Additionally, if the centre of the magnet hole has worn out, it is imperative to replace the magnet, and possibly the lever, to restore proper functionality.
To further test for abnormal magnet wear, you can use a screwdriver test. Have someone press the manual brake button on the controller or step on the brake pedal. Simultaneously, check if a screwdriver sticks to the magnet. If the screwdriver does not stick, it indicates that the magnet is defective and may need replacement.
Another method to test for abnormal magnet wear is by using a multimeter. Before beginning, ensure that the trailer is not connected to avoid any electrical short circuits. Set your multimeter to Ohms and place the probes on the brake magnet wires. The black probe can be placed on any brake magnet wire, while the red probe goes on the other wire. If the multimeter reading falls outside the specified resistance range for your brake magnet size, it indicates abnormal magnet wear, and the magnet will need to be replaced.
By following these steps and regularly inspecting your electric trailer brake magnets for abnormal wear, you can help ensure the safety and reliability of your trailer's braking system.
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Check for internal exposure or breaks in wires
To check for internal exposure or breaks in the wires, you will need a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ammeter setting to measure amperage. Place the negative probe on any wire and the positive probe on the positive terminal of your battery. Then, place the brake magnet on the negative battery post. If you get any ampere reading on the multimeter, there is an internal short in the brake magnet, and it needs to be replaced. If there is no reading, the magnet is good.
You can also use a voltmeter to check for voltage drops across a connection. This is effectively looking for a poor connection. Corrosion on the exposed connection could be causing a break or a loss of power.
You can also test for internal exposure or breaks in the wires by measuring the current. Connect one probe to the blue wire coming from your connector plug and the other probe to one of the brake magnet wires. With your car turned on, activate the brakes through the pedal or electric control panel. Measure the amount of current coming from the connector to the brake wires. If the current goes above or below your recommended specification, then the controller or wires may be bad and need to be changed.
Another method to test for internal exposure or breaks in the wires is to use a metal tool, such as a wrench or screwdriver. With the help of a friend, apply current to the brakes through the controller. If the metal does not stick, then there could be a problem with the controller or its wires.
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Isolate the fault to the drawbar or chassis wiring
To isolate the fault to the drawbar or chassis wiring, you must first disconnect the 6-way plug between the chassis and the tongue/drawbar. This will help determine if the fault is specific to the drawbar wiring or the chassis wiring.
If the short is in the chassis wiring, you should then disconnect each brake hub one at a time to see if the fault disappears. If the issue persists even after all brake hubs are disconnected, and there is still a direct short from the blue wire to the earth, then a mounting bolt may have pinched the chassis wiring loom, causing the blue wire to ground to the chassis.
In this case, you should remove the cover plate and visually inspect the wiring loom for any signs of damage. You can also use a multimeter to test the trailer brake wiring. Set the multimeter to Ohms and place the negative probe on one of the brake magnet wires, and the positive probe on the other magnet wire. If the multimeter reading is outside the specified resistance range for your brake magnet size, then the brake or magnet may need to be replaced.
Additionally, you can check for voltage drops across connections using a voltmeter. This will help identify any poor connections, which could be caused by corrosion or damage to the connector pins.
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Frequently asked questions
You can use a multimeter to test the trailer brake wiring between the brake controller and the brake magnet. You should also take note of the number of brakes you have, your trailer pin plug configuration, and the recommended current the magnet wires are meant to produce.
For a 10-inch brake drum, you should expect a reading between 3.8 and 4.0 ohms. If the reading is outside these ranges, the magnet is bad and needs to be replaced.
Disconnect the plug between the chassis and the tongue/drawbar to see if the fault goes away. If the short is in the chassis side of the wiring, disconnect each brake hub at the hub one at a time. If there is still a direct short, a Rock Guard mounting bolt may have pinched the chassis wiring loom.
Check the magnets for wear and abnormal wear such as exposed windings. If there are no visible signs of wear, test the amperage with a meter.
The breakaway brake system includes a battery, a switch with a pull pin and lanyard, and a breakaway brake controller. To test the battery, remove the pull pin from the switch and attempt to pull the wheelhouse forward.
