Umair Gaines
Running electrical wires through finished walls, also known as pulling wires, can be a complicated and time-consuming process. It is important to be aware of the electrical code and safety measures, such as turning off the main power, to avoid injury or electrical problems. The standard height for electrical wires in walls is 16 to 18 inches above the floor, and the process may involve extending circuits from existing outlets or adding entirely new circuits. There are various methods for running cables, including using a circular saw to cut through the wall, drilling holes for the cable, and using fish tape to pull the cable through. The specific approach depends on the scope of the job and whether it is a DIY project or handled by a professional electrician.
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What You'll Learn
Planning cable routes and box locations
First, determine the scope of the work. Are you extending a circuit from an existing outlet or adding an entirely new circuit? This decision will influence your cable route and the methods you use to run the cable.
When planning the cable route, consider the location of the wall studs. Use a magnetic or electrical stud finder to trace the electrical wires in your wall. The wires will typically run through drilled holes in the studs, and the standard height for electrical wires is 16 to 18 inches above the floor, in line with the wall outlets.
If you are extending a circuit, you may run the cable vertically from an existing outlet box. You can go upwards towards the attic or downwards to the basement, across joists, and directly above or below the new box location. This method avoids cutting into drywall and instead utilizes the existing wall cavity.
Before cutting any openings in the drywall, carefully mark the desired location for the electrical box. When installing boxes in finished walls, they should be positioned between studs. Use a stud finder to locate the studs, and outline the position of the electrical boxes accordingly. Ensure that the height of the new box aligns with the location of other outlets in your house, typically between 12 and 18 inches above the floor.
Once you have marked the box locations, cut out the openings using a drywall saw or a jigsaw. Be extremely cautious during this step to avoid cutting into existing electrical wires, plumbing pipes, or other mechanical components within the wall.
After cutting the openings, you can start fishing the cable through the wall. If you are working with an existing wire, remove the wire and insert an electrician's fish tape through the drilled hole. Extend the fish tape until it reaches the wall box opening, and have a helper retrieve it from the other end. Then, uncoil the necessary length of NM cable, allowing about 2 feet of excess cable at each end.
Remember to follow local code regulations and safety guidelines throughout the process. For example, when drilling holes for the cable, set them back at least 1 1/4 inches from the front edge of the studs, or use metal plates for protection. Additionally, consult with a licensed electrician if you have any doubts or concerns about your specific project.
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Using a stud finder
Electronic stud finders use sensors to detect changes in density behind the drywall, indicating the presence of a stud. They are generally more accurate and can detect both wood and metal studs, but they tend to be more expensive. Some electronic stud finders offer multiple depth detection modes, allowing you to customize the sensor strength for thinner or thicker walls. They may also be able to identify different materials behind your wall, such as metal pipes or live wiring, helping you avoid drilling into them accidentally.
Radar stud finders, on the other hand, use electromagnetic waves to penetrate the wall and create a detailed image of what lies behind it. This type of stud finder is typically professional-grade equipment. Before using any stud finder, it is important to calibrate it by placing it on a wall without any studs and pressing the calibration button. Additionally, if your stud finder has adjustable sensitivity, you should ensure that it is set correctly. To do this, turn on the device and adjust the sensitivity in free air until it emits a tone, then turn it back down until the tone turns off.
Once your stud finder is ready, you can start locating the studs. Begin by finding an electrical outlet or switch on the wall, as electrical boxes are usually attached to a stud. Place your stud finder on the wall and slowly move it horizontally until it beeps or flashes, indicating that it has detected a stud. Mark the edge of the stud with a pencil or tape, then repeat the process on the other side to find the other edge. Finally, measure the distance between the two marked edges and divide it in half to find the center of the stud. Double-checking stud locations with a different type of sensor or method is always recommended to ensure accuracy.
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Drilling holes
Before drilling any holes, ensure you have access to the water and gas shut-off mechanisms in your home. If applicable, turn off the breakers for the electrical circuits feeding the work area. It is also important to limit your drilling depth to reduce the risk of damaging wiring behind the drywall. The 2018 International Residential Code states that electrical wires should be set back no less than 1-1/4 inches from the edge of the framing lumber, so limiting your drilling depth to less than this is a good idea.
To avoid drilling into electrical wires, plumbing pipes, or other mechanicals, use a stud finder to locate the wooden beams or studs in the wall. Mark the spot where you want to drill with a pencil, ensuring it is not directly above, below, or to the side of any electrical switches or outlets. If you are drilling into a wall with paint or plaster, use a metal or drywall bit to start the hole, then switch to a masonry bit once you get through this initial layer.
Once you have marked the spot and chosen the right drill bit, put on safety goggles and a dust mask. Place the drill bit against the mark, hold the drill straight, and press firmly while squeezing the trigger. Keep drilling until you reach the desired depth, then ease off on the trigger and pull the drill back out while it is still running.
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Using a fish tape
Fish tape is a tool used by electricians to pull electrical wires through conduits, walls, ceilings, floors, and other enclosed spaces. It is a long, stiff, flat steel wire that can be dangerous if allowed to unreel suddenly. Therefore, it is important to wear safety glasses when working with fish tape.
To use a fish tape, start by visually mapping the route to get the wire or cable from point A to point B. This may involve drilling holes through structural materials like wood, metal, concrete, or blocks. At "pinch points", where a wall meets a ceiling, for example, you will need to cut the drywall to prevent the fish tape from bending. Once you have located the hole in the wall plate, remove the wire, and uncoil the end of the fish tape. Insert it through the drilled hole and extend the blade until it is visible in the wall box opening. Ideally, the end of the fish tape should extend out through the hole in the drywall. This step is easier if you have a helper at the other end to retrieve the fish tape.
After the blade of the fish tape is visible through the wall opening, uncoil enough cable to complete the cable run, allowing about 2 feet of excess cable at each end. Stretch out the cable and untwist any kinks. Attach the wire to the end of the fish tape, bend the wire to form a complete loop, and tamp down the wires by hand to create a smooth bundle. Then, wrap the wires with electrical tape, starting where the wires attach to the fish tape and ending at the cable sheathing.
Finally, slowly and patiently pull the fish tape back, unspooling the electrical cable as you go. It is helpful to have an assistant at the other end to relieve tension. Once the fish tape is fully retracted, unwrap and remove the wires from the fish tape.
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Patching the wall
Firstly, cut a drywall patch using a straightedge and utility knife. Insert the patch into the open channel and attach it to the studs with drywall screws. It is important to ensure that the patch is secure and that there are no gaps between the new and existing drywall.
If you are patching a large hole, you may need to use a drywall repair kit, which typically includes a piece of drywall, a patch, and a compound to fill in any gaps. Follow the instructions on the kit for the best results.
If you are simply extending a circuit, such as adding an additional outlet location in a room, you can remove the baseboard molding and notch out the drywall in the hidden area behind the baseboard. Drill access holes through the studs to fish the cable from one location to the next. This method avoids the need to cut and patch large sections of drywall.
In some cases, it may be necessary to remove and replace a section of the wall surface. This can be done with a circular saw fitted with a masonry blade set to a shallow depth. Cut horizontally along the wall to remove the plaster and lath. After the cable is installed, repair the wall with a new section of drywall.
When patching drywall, it is important to follow local code regulations and safety guidelines. For example, using nail guards and cable staples can provide additional safety and security.
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Frequently asked questions
First, turn off the power to the circuit. If you are unsure which circuit the wire belongs to, shut off the main power. Then, remove the portion of the drywall where the wire is located. You will need to do drywall repair after.
First, trace the electrical wires in your wall with a magnetic or electrical stud finder. The standard height for electrical wires in walls is 16 to 18 inches above the floor. Then, cut openings for the electrical boxes in the drywall. Cut out the box openings using a drywall saw or jigsaw.
Contact an electrician to do this safely. Doing it incorrectly could result in a house fire. If you are set on doing it yourself, check your local regulations and make sure to do a proper electrical survey first.
You will need a stud finder, a drywall saw or jigsaw, a drill, a drill bit extender, and a fish tape.
