The Ultimate Guide To Installing An Electric Choke

how to hook up an electric chocke

Hooking up an electric choke requires careful consideration of the power source and wiring connections. The choke needs full 12 volts to operate effectively, and it is recommended to connect it to a switched 12-volt source. This ensures that the choke only receives power when the engine is running, preventing issues like coil problems, poor spark, and potential misfires. One common suggestion is to connect the choke to the ''S' or 'STA' terminal on the alternator, which provides power only when the engine is running, avoiding unnecessary battery drain. Another option is to use an oil pressure switch in the power wire, ensuring the choke heats up only when there is sufficient oil pressure and the engine is running. It is important not to connect the choke directly to the coil or distributor side of the coil, as this can lead to reduced voltage and performance issues.

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The stator connection

The stator will not output enough voltage to fully heat the coil inside the choke cap. However, this is not a problem, as the choke does not need full battery voltage to function properly. The choke is designed to slowly open as the engine warms up. The stator rarely puts out as much as 12 volts, but coils respond pretty closely to the same voltage from six to fifteen volts. The higher voltages will cause the choke to reach full open a few seconds faster.

On non-Ford alternators, you usually don't want to use the stator as a connection. This only applies to older Ford alternators. In very cold weather, the engine takes longer to warm, so various straight 12-volt wiring solutions can work fine.

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The S terminal

Connecting the electric choke to the S terminal is a common practice, with millions of Fords having their electric chokes hooked up to the stator post of the alternator from the factory. However, it is important to note that some aftermarket chokes and carbs require 12V, which may result in a delayed choke operation.

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The oil pressure switch

When wiring an electric choke, it is essential to route the power through the oil pressure switch. This configuration ensures that the choke only receives power when the engine is running. By connecting the switch in series with the choke heater coil, the voltage to the choke can be controlled effectively.

Some vehicles may not have an oil warning light, in which case the third terminal on the oil pressure switch remains unused. However, it is important to ensure that the switch is functioning correctly to prevent issues such as a dead battery. Faulty switches may need to be replaced to ensure proper functionality.

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The starter solenoid

In some older starter designs, such as the Bendix drive, the starter solenoid was not directly linked to the pinion. Instead, these designs relied on the rotational inertia of the pinion to force it along a helical groove in the starter drive shaft. However, modern starters universally rely on the solenoid to engage the starter drive. Additionally, the starter solenoid can receive a large electric current directly from the car battery and a small electric current from the ignition switch.

If the starter solenoid receives insufficient power from the battery, it will fail to start the motor and may produce a rapid clicking sound. This issue can be caused by a low battery, corroded or loose connections in the battery cable, or a damaged positive (red) cable from the battery. To identify a faulty starter solenoid, one can perform a test by turning the ignition key to the "On" position and touching the metal shaft of a screwdriver to the large terminal posts. If the engine starts, the solenoid is faulty and requires replacement.

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The ignition

It is recommended to use a full 12 volts to operate the electric choke correctly. However, connecting the choke directly to the coil will result in reduced voltage, typically between 6 and 9 volts. This can affect the performance of the choke and cause issues with the coil and plugs. Therefore, it is advised to connect the choke to a switched 12-volt source, such as the starter solenoid or relay. This way, the choke will receive full power when the engine is running, and it won't drain the battery when the engine is off.

Additionally, it is important to consider the use of an oil pressure switch in the power wire. This ensures that the choke only heats up when there is oil pressure, providing a safety measure in case the engine stalls or loses oil pressure. The oil pressure switch blocks the voltage to the choke when there is no oil pressure, preventing it from heating up unnecessarily. This can also be achieved by connecting the choke to the alternator terminal, as suggested by some users.

When wiring the electric choke, it is crucial to identify the positive and negative leads. The negative lead should be connected to any good engine ground, while the positive lead should be connected to a circuit that is hot only when the engine is running. It is important to avoid connecting the positive lead to the distributor side of the coil, as it can cause issues with the ignition module and burn out the points. A 10-amp fuse should be used in conjunction with the positive lead for safety.

Frequently asked questions

The electric choke has two wiring connections, one positive and one negative. The negative lead should be connected to any good engine ground, and the positive lead should be connected to any circuit that is hot only when the engine is running. Do not connect the positive lead to the distributor side of the coil. The choke needs full 12 volts to operate correctly.

The choke wire should be hooked up to the back of the alternator. There is a post marked "S" or "STA", which is the stator connection. It only produces electricity when the engine is running.

The electric choke needs full 12 volts to operate correctly. If you connect the choke to the coil, you will not realise a full 12 volts, but rather an average of between 6 and 9 volts.

It is important to note that the choke should not be heating during extended cranking. The choke should only heat up once you are done cranking and the engine is running. Therefore, connect to a power source that is not active in "Accessory", "Off", or "Crank" mode, only in "Run" mode.

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